GEAR CHANGE ENHANCER ;)

[Sven]

Check the marks on the swingarm to make sure the wheel is aligned properly too.

My rear wheel was a long way out of alignment from new. Was set to 5 marks showing one side & 6 showing on the other. Noticed at 600 mile service & checked by the mechanic with laser alignment equipment. The marks were spot on (unlike Suzuki when they set it up)
So worth checking that...

[womble68]

ye the gears are clunky when on the move , I have noticed this morning when got bike on centre stand , when rotating the rear wheel by hand several times the chain is moving across the sprocketi didn't notice this before just that when checked at rest it was tight up against inside of chain also on rotating wheel you can hear a very slight rubbing of the rear brake shoes but when chain moves across the sprocket the rubbing on the shoes stops , there's no play in the rear wheel so this must mean the wheel or something is out of true, alignment marks are spot on have measured from centre of rear spindle to swingarm piviot point and both sides are spot on

[greywolf]

This is counter to anything I ever read on the subject. The fix I've seen is to move the sprocket carrier 2mm closer to the wheel on the DL1000. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,1499.0.html

[Beerbelly]

I think the fix by using two new spacers improves the mechanical fit between the cush hub and the sprocket carrier, in effect the carrier sits in the cush hub by a further 2mm after the mod. It should help to prolong cush rubbers and bearing life by reducing the lateral twisting forces from the chain. The problem as I see it is that this mod would actually make the chain alignment worse than before, certainly on my bike anyway. If I look at my bike from the rear I can see that the chain already sits to the left of the rear sprocket teeth as standard, causing greater wear on the inside of the sprocket teeth. Perhaps the best solution would be to use the two spacer mod to sort out the hub / carrier alignment together with a shim spacer between the carrier and the sprocket to sort out the chain alignment.

[greywolf]

There does seem to be some variance in sprocket alignment. I'll agree a major benefit of the spacer mod is to get the carrier deeper into the hub and prevent it from cocking and prematurely wearing out the cush rubbers.

[Keith Cross]

Looks like a good mod to me.  Not to sure about altering the wheel spacers as this must surely put the wheels out of line.  Only a little, but still out of line.  
Just s thought that may indicate the sprocket spacer is a better idea.

Keith C

[greywolf]

Looks like a good mod to me.  Not to sure about altering the wheel spacers as this must surely put the wheels out of line.  Only a little, but still out of line.  
Just s thought that may indicate the sprocket spacer is a better idea.

Keith C

A proper spacer mod does not change the wheel position. It takes 2mm out of the inner spacer and adds 2mm to the outer spacer. That moves the sprocket carrier in 2mm but does not move the wheel.

[Keith Cross]

Sorry misunderstood.  I thought that the mod involved changing the spacers each side of the wheel, not each side of the sprocket carrier.

Keith C

[seath3971]

Hi blokes the problem I have with my Vee strom is a almost harsh grinding feeling between 3-4 rph. Gets worse the more weight that's on the bike. I have done the re tune which helped a bit but not cured it do you think this mod could be the answer?

[greywolf]

Do you mean between 3-4k rpm? If so See the test for clutch chudder at http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7503.0.html

[seath3971]

Done a bit of reading into this and yes I think you have hit the nail on the head. Cheers for your advice.

[Stromcat]

There again,maybe Suzuki got it right all along.Nothing wrong with my gearchange.

[thebigcheese]

got one of these delivered today, hopefully it will help the gear change, bit awkward form 1st into 2nd. couple of time it has gone into neutral and caused a few nervous moments

[55JAMPOT]

OK, I'm new to the Owners Club but have had my Strom for 6 years, getting a bit confused over these rear sprocket spacers, some say add 2mm, some say deduct 2mm from the sprocket/wheel spacers to achieve better chain alignment and smoother gear change, that's a 4mm difference, they can't be both right, what is first critical to check is wheel alignment, the marks on the adjustment guide may not be super accurate and should not be taken as gospel, a chain that seems to be running smooth may be achievable even if the rear sprocket is too far in or out by having a misaligned rear wheel which would compensate, but having a smooth gear change is little compensation for ending up in a hedge cos the bike didn't turn correctly due to mis alignment of the wheels!, the chain would wear out quicker too by running slewed, once that is correct the front to rear sprockets can be checked for alignment, should it be spaced in/out or is already correct, also is the swingarm correctly aligned (centered) and is there any free play in any of the associated bearings.
 
1st to 2nd gear change can be notchy due to the large difference in their ratios, but taking up the slack in the gear change movement with your foot before making the change can make a huge difference, so of course can a dragging clutch and rubbish oil so worth checking that to. :text-givemebeer:

[mjc506]

From what I've seen, the marks to the swingarm are pretty good! How easy it is to read between tick marks is another matter of course...

[greywolf]

The swingarm mark accuracy varies from bike to bike. You can do some pretty elaborate things to check alignment but I like the practical approach. Ride the bike on a flat area. Most roads have a crown for water drainage so be aware of that. If the grips can be released and the bike continue straight, the alignment is good. If that is accomplished, then check the marks for accuracy to use them in the future. I know mine are accurate.

I've been following the spacer modification story since before Master Mike got out of the business of making them and I guarantee the movement of the rear sprocket is 2mm further into the sprocket carrier. Possibly the greatest benefit is the reduction in sprocket wobble due to worn rubber blocks as the sprocket simply has less room to move off line. Some say the reduction in wobble room is more important than the alignment change.

[55JAMPOT]

Just like a few of you in the past, I to have now moved the rear sprocket inboard by 2mm and put a new rear sprocket bearing in for good measure and yep the gear change is much much smoother, so a result and thanks to all. Still trying to get my head round why this works but I guess that the rear sprocket may be oscillating due to its slackness and the pulsing transmitted back to the gearbox via the chain.
Still got the weird light clonk sound when just moving off in first gear, any ideas? I guess its coming from the clutch but its not affecting its function and no chudder.

[55JAMPOT]

Just a follow up from my strange clonk on moving off, the chain was at fault not the clutch, phew! the chain had not stretched much and certainly not beyond tolerance (scott oiler fitted) but on close inspection each roller had alot of wear/flop in it, new chain and sprocket fitted, clonk gone.

On the continuing subject of gear change enhancement.....reducing the amount of oil (to just above minimum mark) makes a massive difference, try it, it costs  nothing, which is nice!