Author Topic: RPM running too high... (Read 1123 times)

Anonymous · « **on:** March 11, 2011, 17:25:37 »

Hi folks...
I have a simple question for you...

How do I reduce my Idle Rpms?

I took it for its service, last saturday, and the monkeys at the garage, have wound the rpm up to just under 1300... where as before , it was running at just below 1000, and was happy...

I don't know what they have donme to it... but I want to put it back, to where I had it...

this is on a K7 Strom 1000...

Ideas?

Beerbelly · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2011, 18:21:02 »

If you under the frame rail, to the side of where your left knee would be when on the bike you will see a small screw poking out between the from a thin bracket, just screw that to alter the tick over.

Oldie · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2011, 19:00:33 »

Maybe they thought that it was a Wee? 1300 is fine for the 650.

Beerbelly · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2011, 19:11:02 »

Some people increase the tick over overcome stalling problems when pulling the clutch in, not that I've encountered the problem myself.

Juvecu · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2011, 20:28:59 »

The correct idle r/min for the Vee is "1200 Â±100 r/min/Warmed engine" according to the service manual. So pretty much the same as for the Wee

Anonymous · « **Reply #5 on:** March 13, 2011, 02:04:35 »

Thank you kindly, gents...
Screw located, and adjusted...
WAS running at 1300... now running at 950-ish...
Engine warmed up to operating temp, and screw played with, so the "cold Start" Injection was not buggered...
Back to where it was previous to Monkeys playing with it, for the MOT and Service...
at 1300... full tank lasted me 130-ish miles...
at 950 (previously) tank lasts 250+...

BIG difference...

Juvecu · « **Reply #6 on:** March 13, 2011, 23:56:45 »

250+ miles? My Wee doesn't even get that if I try to be conservative (though I do have an old Wee.) I get 230 miles, before the last bar has been flashing for uncomfortably long. Then I get over 18 litres into the tank, most you can realistically get in is 19ish litres so that's close to empty. That's just over 52 mpg, how does your Vee get more MPG than that? I don't recall the Vee tank being bigger and the idle rate has no effect on MPG. Am I missing something?

Anonymous · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2011, 20:30:16 »

Vee tank is 22 litres... not sure what the Wee tank is...
Filled, sitting upright, to the interior "flangey" thing of the tank... refilled when the laast bar is flashing merrily to itself, normally... and normally filled with high-grade petrol... (definately NOT Tescos, after all of the crap that came out of my tank, and out of my in-line filter...) and occasionally dosed with engine & Injector cleaner, every few tanks... ( I like to take care of the Black Beast... that way, it takes care of me...)

Winding the Idle down, makes the engine run slower, and also it doesn't drink so much fuel, somehow...
My Bike has been re-mapped, about 2 years ago, and Scorpions and K&N may make a difference....
Maybe my bike is an exception to the rule.... plus, I drive Big-Rigs, so I know how to use the gas effectivly... that might also have something to do with it...

indiana · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2011, 21:20:50 »

Quote from: "Hauler"

I drive Big-Rigs, so I know how to use the gas effectivly

Tailgating a big rig works well for fuel economy, Wouldn't do it myself though. Generally don't like getting any where near them. due to a bad experience.
But after reading this thread a have turned my idle speed down to see how it runs on a tank full.
I do have a couple of concerns that it might make the motor run abit lean which might make it run hotter.

Juvecu · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2011, 21:45:34 »

Same tank size for both then (but you won't get a full 22 litres in), if better fuel makes that much of a difference then I want to know about it. I don't like Tesco's fuel either, but haven't any issues with the local Sainsbury's. Their turnaround is so big that the fuel is always clean. I stay away from any additives myself.

I'd say I'm fairly good at getting good MPG, I sit on a motorway all the time with very little town or other roads (maybe 10 miles of non motorway of my whole ~190 mile journey.) I hate having to adjust my speed so I tend to try to time things so that I don't have to. I used to have the Wee's idle at 1000 before I saw the book says 1300 (1000 just sounded right by the ear.) I didn't notice any difference with changing it and I document every fill up so I'd notice.

Commander · « **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2011, 11:21:01 »

Hi Hauler, be cautious with that idle speed. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but 950rpm is much too low really. It's risky for the 1000 as most will start to spit back and stall at lower speeds even during a gearchange if you don't watch out. It may be OK for a while but as the TBS starts to go out, and it does on them all, it will probably start to play up. As has been said, unless you spend all day stationary in traffic, idle speed has no effect on fuel consumption. I have mine set to 1100rpm which is perfect on my bike. It's within the book settings.

Incidentally, I get 48-50mpg on a run and 35-36mpg around town. Mine has been ecu flashed by Suzuki with the latest FI map for DL1000's. Pulls like a train from any revs if allowed. Enjoy your bike!

badger 1050 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2011, 17:26:49 »

I always had mine set to about 1000 give or take a bit and never had a problem with it cutting out etc and only had the throttles synced once in the 26,000 odd miles

badger 1050

Commander · « **Reply #12 on:** March 17, 2011, 19:12:27 »

Hi Badge, a 1000rpm's not too bad. One sync in 26k is amazing. Although, If it was going into the dealer for servicing it would have been checked and if necessary adjusted as a normal service function as per the manual. It's easy to do and takes no time at all. But that's good if it was only adjusted once.

badger 1050 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 18, 2011, 16:01:27 »

I

Quote from: "Commander"

Hi Badge, a 1000rpm's not too bad. One sync in 26k is amazing. Although, If it was going into the dealer for servicing it would have been checked and if necessary adjusted as a normal service function as per the manual. It's easy to do and takes no time at all. But that's good if it was only adjusted once.

I did all my own services I don't trust the dealers and don't want to pay the prices they charge I am lucky enough to work in a garage that has a dedicated bike section for a fleet of bikes so I got one of the tech's to do it for me as they have the proper gauges
I have to take my tiger in tomorrow to get pads and discs fitted under warranty I did ask if I could take them away and fit them myself the bloke nearly had a fit and told me all the rules as to why I can't so will be going over the bike when I get it back and copper greasing the pads as well as I know they won't

badger 1050