The headlight relay thing...

[locksim]

I've heard a little about this but I'm not entirely clear about whether the various electrical issues I've heard of: starter button, hi/lo beam switch, loss of headlight(s) and the 'yellow' connector are all part of the problem.

Were I to fit a headlight relay would I significantly lessen the likelihood of all these issues. Is there a guide and if the problems are not related what else would be good preventative maintenance?

I've searched the forum here and on Stormtrooper but it seems everyone is already fully aware! I'm not, but I'd like to be and prevent future potential problems if I can.

[Rixington43]

The starter button issue is caused by arcing inside the switch gear. There is a small, sprung, sliding contact inside the starter switch which cuts the headlights when starting the bike and then switches them back on when you let go. This means the full current for the lights goes through this small switch. If the switch gets dirty then the sliding contact can stick/make a bad contact and this leads to arcing/shorting and the wiring burning out. It can be prevented by cleaning out the starter switch and applying a good coat of di-electric grease which will prevent arcing. It's not a tough job (10mins once you're familiar) but the switch can be fiddly to reassemble so go slow and take photos as you go.
Fitting a relay specifically guards against this issue as it removes the main current from the starter switch.

The yellow connector behind the radiator is prone to corrosion and this can eventually kill your lights as well. The relay won't help with this, the only solution here is to pull the connectors behind the radiator (they're all a potential issue) and clean them before a generous application of di-electric grease to waterproof them. Since they are exposed at every valve clearance service, it's a job you can re-do as part of semi-regular servicing. The Hi-Lo switch I've not come across but I wouldn't be surprised if that wasn't related to the connectors behind the radiator as well.

[locksim]

Thanks - I feel better informed👍 is there a guide here to fitting a relay to eliminate the problem?

[Rixington43]

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/Installation/body_installation.html

These blokes seem the go to for the relay kits (no idea on overseas delivery though).

[Silverback]

Had same problem. When I took the switch apart I'm sure I either stretched the spring under the contact plate or put a spacer in to put a bit more pressure on the contacts. 5 years later still no problems. I did replace that yellow connector as well though.

[Ianmc]

   I have fitted an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit on all of the three Vstroms I have had,it’s very simple to install,it is fed directly from the battery so the only power that goes through the starter switch is the relay supply,a very tiny amount compared with the headlight load.Plus it makes the headlights a little better in my opinion.Its not cheap but the one on my current bike is about six years old and is still working perfectly.Another plus is that it takes most of the load off the connector behind the radiator,so that problem goes away as long as it is clean when the relay is fitted.I have just had a look and as far as I can see shipping is $10 to the UK.

[locksim]

Ah, that's all very interesting. My AL8 has H7 and H9 connections so, as Eastern Beaver only do an H4 loom, it looks like I'll be designing my own which I'll enjoy doing ready to make and install it sometime this year.

In the meantime I'll dismantle the starter switch and apply dielectric grease. Thanks all for your knowledge and advice - the great thing about an owners' group of course is exactly this: the expertise and knowledge links that benefit the average owner like me 👍

[nigel s]

The gen 3 650s mostly don't seem to suffer from the start switch problem , due to only having one headlight lit at start up, lessening the load 
However going round those connectors under the tank/ near rad and cleaning them/ protecting with dielectric grease is time well spent to head off future problems.
I don't use WD40 in the switch gear as a prevention , to my mind it dissolves any dielectric already there, better to take them apart every few years ,clean up and reapply some more dielectric as you plan to do.
If you decide to fit a relay, post the mod up on here, would be interested to see  if it improves the headlight

[nigel s]

Too late to put this in my previous post and may be slightly off topic .... but...maybe not ?
 
I recently went round every connector on my RR with dielectric  ( same as I did for the 650 when I got it ) and wanted to check on the seemingly eternal discussion about dielectric grease ....good or bad ?

I came down on the good side 

[soothsayer]

Dialectic on spark plug boots only for me. ACF50 on connectors and switchgear.
Not a fan of dialectic grease on bikes wiring personally. Messy, it hardens up in the long run, lots of issues linked to it's use. Silicone grease constantly off gasses and causes bad corrosion if anything starts to spark, like a starter switch or relay.
Had to spend hours cleaning the stuff off of connectors to get better contact and fix electrical gremlins.
I've found it works in the short term just fine and in 'most' instances will not give trouble, but I think there are better purpose designed products now available like acf and bioshield but YMMV!

[nigel s]

soothsayer,
 You make some good points. I think the main takeaway is something is better than nothing in this case to keep the creeping green rot away.
During my extensive research ( 15 mins at work on the phone a few weeks ago when I really should have been doing something more productive , tip....ignore everything on Reddit... ) I found that while some dielectrics are silicone based ( the one in the vid, for example ,is silicone free ) the ones that are have a non curing agent that normal silicone grease doesn't. It means they never go hard and don't gas. Think bathroom silicone sealant, as it cures it gasses off the solvent making a stink, dielectric doesn't do that.
I used dielectric 'cos I had some , if I was out I too would use ACF 50,  I go through quite a bit of that too so always have some about.

Ho Hum

[purplebikeunicorn]

The Gen 3 650s don't suffer with the starter contacts burning as much as the previous gens, likely because of the single headlight. If you go to LED, the risk is even less.

[soothsayer]

Nigel if the better dialectic doesn't off gas and doesn't harden then I stand corrected! Sounds pretty good stuff, do you have a product name?

[Rixington43]

I use the Permatex stuff, it certainly hasn't hardened in the few years it's been on connections I've gone back and re-cleaned.
I do take the point that grease can attract more dirt than a dry connection so it's worth going back every now and again and refreshing.

[nigel s]

Plus one on the Permatex,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355033744279?_skw=permatex+dielectric+grease&epid=2255451678&itmmeta=01JN1KG00KNSN8J0S1V1PYAK3S&hash=item52a9a90397:g:3EoAAOSwlu1lAeH0&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ev1jogGBPDLMSyvtn%2Bz5m1miDBjPrTSjdjUZT7nmuc2gEiqnUZNTgSVzd7xJf1qRc08UBvkR9cnTdYj3RgAdy%2FXaOC36Ysl4lrechfrgCAE4xCnklfQyOIoXifitoEjuOwrcRV0VZ6ldjG8Gk1AqxNyVuINejIjUnpFTZVL%2Bi2ORfFm4URwwNA%2BcOgkhitwEXkL0lLFBuQMmZB%2BNVe8GycJ2nm4IThXMgnnZ%2FiB2Ui3w9NLOcJUH9Af3HKMHVlnUW1GGS4hoeC056s2Rkv3nA2f09jULDVB00ZDw2MDBoOvQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMvIDAs6hl

I have used the same tube on my last 4 bikes, so it is maybe 10 years old ? , still gooey. Doesn't need much so a tube lasts. I also use it when splicing wires, push on the heat shrink then cover the splice in dielectric, slide the heatshrink back and heat. That way the bared copper is protected and waterproofed, again doesn't use much