Non Starting 1200GS

[NeilM]

Endintears. Yup, done all that and everything feels fine.

I also pulled the clutch lever while turning the rear wheel (good thing I'm tall) and the clutch operates cleanly, so no dragging or binding there either.

[Dark-Strom]

Hi, being as baffled as you are from my limited knowledge...when you turned the engine over manually, this was on the crank hence being able to put it in gear etc., proving the cranks not siezed .However...what's to say the pistons etc. were actually moving?
Have you tried putting a long cable tie etc. in the plug holes to see if they move?
Just looks more and more that something mechanical is causing resistance somewhere?
Good luck 

[NeilM]

Dark Storm. I adjusted the valve clearances yesterday and watched the pistons come to TDC.

Plus, after finals checks all over and reinstalling the petrol tank this afternoon..... It runs! 

I have now heard the engine on my GS running for the first time since purchase.

However, in order to get it to start I have had to use an extra jump battery, and while still hot, I tried a restart and the new Motobatt will not turn the engine over, I just get the same click click click that I have suffered from the outset.

This was repeated twice, about 20 minutes apart.

I'm trying to find someone locally with a proper battery tester in anticipation of starting a warranty claim.

While it was running I checked the voltage on the battery terminals and the alternator is putting about 14.2v into the battery at tickover.

So, we are not quite out of the woods, but we are pretty damn close.

[endintears]

Think you said it was very sluggish turning over even with jump leads from a high capacity car battery [vehicle running] attached so all a bit confusing.
I would normally be looking for a faulty starter motor or a high resistance electrical connection in the starter motor circuit between the battery via the solenoid contacts (the big thick wires) and the starter motor itself.
You've ruled out the starter motor and the fact the voltage is dropping very low on the solenoid coil /starter button circuit as well undermines that theory somewhat.
Anyway  and as you say you're getting close to the root cause now regardless.
Onwards and upwards 

[Dark-Strom]

Great you got it to run, as you say getting somewhere, interested now as to where...

[Pannier Down]

My old K1100 suffered something similar, it turned out that the main earth lead to the frame,  which on the k sat under the tank, was slightly loose and mucky.  Once cleaned up and secured,  the starter seemed much happier. You might prove or otherwise by jumping a separate earth cable and see if things improve.

[NeilM]

Pannier. The earth strap on the early GS runs to a T25 torx on top of the engine, pretty much at the base of the n/s cylinder.

It was in a horrible state and took an hour to finally get clean enough for me to be happy.

I have run resistance and continuity tests on all sorts of +ve and -ve leads and circuits. Bench run old starters, bench run the new starter, tested them running (but not installed) in the bike... all sorts.

I think the original fault may have been in the feed to the starter solenoid and this was probably fixed the first time I removed the relay which handles the high current circuit, as the handlebar button just activates that relay.

That fault, helped by a sump with at least 750ml too much oil was enough to prevent the engine from turning over freely, even with the plugs out. With the plugs out yesterday I was able to get the engine to turn over.... not quickly, these engines don't do that, but enough.

I then fully charged the new battery in the bike and a couple of jump batteries that we use to energise electric tape 'zappers' at the horses field, connected the whole lot together and the Beemer started first prod of the button. However, after running the engine up to temperature, the 'new' bike battery on its own would not turn the engine over... so I think we have culprit number two.

I'll be getting another battery, just as soon as I can find one I am sure can handle the task.

[NeilM]

UPDATE.

MotorWorks have just supplied me with a brand new MotoBatt.

Looking at the date code, the replacement was made in July, the last one was made in March 2022!

Voltage on the new battery is 12.75V, just what I'd expect to see from a new battery.

The swing arm is currently off along with much of the exhaust system while I replace the drive gaiters, as soon as the silencer is back on (I really like my neighbours), I'll try for a start.

[nigel s]

 
Ho Hum

[NeilM]

Further update.

With the new battery in, it started second press of the button.

Further tests have the starter turning the engine perfectly, but starting, on four year old petrol, can sometimes take a couple of tries.

Easy fix, fresh petrol.

It's booked in for new tyres and an MOT and the garage are going to reset the service light as it won't need an oil change for a little while now.

[2112]

Good work, I bet you're relieved as much as anything?

[NeilM]

I am, but also just a little pissed off at MW sending me out a battery that was well past its sell by date... literally.

To be fair, the negative lead ground really did need cleaning, and at least I now know how to strip the bike down, but it would have been nicer just to fit a new battery and get the bike running there and then.

I contacted Bikesure for short term insurance, as the Vstrom is due at the end of January and I thought I'd go multibike. They wanted £123 for three months TPFT.

Needless to say I found a cheaper alternative after a mate suggested VMCC insurance, as the bikes 19 years old.

I'm just waiting for my membership to come through.