Author Topic: Brakes Help Please (Read 2220 times)

krisv · « **on:** December 27, 2023, 20:50:46 »

Hello all,

Hope you've had a great Christmas.

I'm in the midst of rebuilding all 3 calipers and need some help please regarding the orientation of the brake seals. In the rush to get the calipers out, I didn't observe whether the seals are asymmetrical or not and whether they need to be installed in a particular orientation. The rebuild kit is from TRK but I haven't opened the seals yet to see whether they are asymmetrical or not.

Another question - all 3 discs are going to be replaced as well. Is EBC the only option or is anything like Tarazon from M&P with more palatable costs OK? I used to use the bike for commuting all year round in the past, racking about 8k per year but now, I struggle to do 2k per year, so have to factor that in too.

Rookie · « **Reply #1 on:** December 27, 2023, 21:06:31 »

Hi Krisv, happy Christmas to you.

You've bought a good repair kit, the same as I use. When you open the seal packet things will become obvious to you, as to which way things go round. The only real difference is the thickness between the dust and oil seals, just make sure the thicker ones(oil) go in the inner groove in the caliper. Don't forget to use the red rubber grease.

As to brake discs I can't help you, sorry. But I'm sure other folks on the site can. I would think better know manufacturers would be the way to go though.

Happy spannering

krisv · « **Reply #2 on:** December 27, 2023, 21:20:21 »

Hi Rookie,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am aware that there are 2 seals per piston, 1x pressure seal and 1x dust seal.

I've seen somewhere that some pressure seals (or the inner seal) have a little and not very obvious lip on them. What I don't know is whether the V-Strom brake seals have a lip on them and if they do, is the lip supposed to be towards the inside (facing the hydraulic chamber) or outside (facing the brake pads)?

Rookie · « **Reply #3 on:** December 27, 2023, 21:57:51 »

That is a damn fine question, I will consult my service manual to find an answer. Or more likely someone will beat me to it.

Gert · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2023, 06:25:32 »

I recommend that you download the relevant service manual (aka Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (K4) Service Manual) from the handy downloads section on this site, https://www.v-strom.co.uk/downloads.htm

Once you have extracted the zip file to pdf format, scroll to section Chassis 7-63, which has a sketch explaining the seal lip orientation.

The downloads section also contains an owner's manual (aka Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (K4) Owners Manua) for downloading, in the event you don't have one.

Compliments of the Season

krisv · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2023, 20:35:09 »

Brill, thanks Gert. It wasn't too obvious when I had a quick look yesterday. It's all clear now.

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 14, 2024, 23:06:19 »

I probably should have asked this before I put them together but here goes..

I bought a copper paste as it was high heat resistant and I put that on the back of the pad and between the metal jacket, and I put just a normal water based(not petroleum based) mechanical grease inside the rubber shoes and on the slider rails? That should be fine right? I didn’t have any silicone or red rubber grease.

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 14, 2024, 23:10:03 »

Before and after

nigel s · « **Reply #8 on:** January 15, 2024, 05:08:09 »

I do it like this.

copper on the pins/back of the pad between shim.
Red rubber on the pistons after cleaning with brake fluid only
HIGH temp silicone on the slider pins/in the boots.
The grease you have in the boots may work for a bit but if it is not high temp ...?
I would get hold of some and pop it in there.
I use this, one satchet is enough for both calipers.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232360866347

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 15, 2024, 07:06:16 »

I think the temperature goes to around 130 degrees 🙃, I do t know if it’s worth taking them back off 😭

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 15, 2024, 16:51:56 »

So I thought if you going to do something then might as well do it properly 🫠 ended up stripping them down again just this time left the pistons in , soapy water wash , and ready for the silicone grease , should be here in the next days …

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 15, 2024, 19:35:42 »

Nice!!!

Brockett · « **Reply #12 on:** January 16, 2024, 16:29:29 »

Ah that old copper grease on the back of the pads myth again.

nigel s · « **Reply #13 on:** January 16, 2024, 17:10:49 »

Depends where you are putting it Vicar

I put some on between the pad and the Anti Squeal Shim,other than that,you are right, I see no point.

Ho Hum

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 17, 2024, 20:42:53 »

Just scratching my head got the brakes back together, put them on, filled the master cylinder pumping the brakes , opening the screw up , but nothing the fluid isn’t passing through ??hmmm have I missed something 🤔

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 17, 2024, 21:22:14 »

So I’m
Pumping the brakes and the air bubbles are coming , but is twenty minutes of pumping the brake normal

or am I just pumping for no reason 😂 oh man!! Help!

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 17, 2024, 22:03:13 »

The only things I can think of are:
Is the seal around the bleed valve and the tube air tight. I've had it before where it wasn't so had to help seal it more (you could zip tie it or use grease but be careful not to cover the end of the valve)
Check you are pumping the lever then with pressure still being applied opening and then closing the bleed valve before releasing the lever.

Make sure you do the clutch side first too.

I once tried one of those cheap vacuum bleed kits from amazon which worked very well until it emptied the master cylinder in one go about half way through the bleed process (user error)

Valzdl650 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2024, 22:18:25 »

Thanks mate, I’ve decided free n hour of uming to call it a night .. hmmm can’t think what it can be , the tune sits real tight on the bleeder valve , and the fluid is passing threw both sides , but the pistons haven’t moved out of there holes ! Little feckers 😂 I’ve attached a clamp to the brake and left the top of master cylinder open and I’ll go back tomorro and try to figure it out , the brake lever is still super limp, a lot of bubbles been coming up but now there pretty much gone but the pistons aren’t moving ….. nightmares tonight I’m sure

nigel s · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2024, 04:31:50 »

From dry after a rebuild it can take a while to get pressure.
As UK-Vstrom 650 said pump ,release bleed nipple ,close,release lever slowly,repeat.
And as you have done tying back the lever overnight will help,but more as a last little bit,to firm it up.
I always put the master cylinder cap loosely back on when pumping and cover the tank.
That brake fluid is baaad on paint.(don't ask how I know)
As long as you don't have fluid coming out somewhere( worth a check) it will come.

Gert · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2024, 07:05:54 »

Question: did you perhaps remove the master cylinder or remove the little plate, item #10 in the diagram https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/Suzuki/motorcycle/2005/v-strom-DL650/front-master-cylinder ?

My goto process when replacing brake fluid, is to reverse bleed the system. Fill a large syringe with brake fluid and bleed off any air in the syringe (as a doctor would). Connect the syringe to the caliper bleeder valve with a tight fitting hose and pump the fluid up to the master cylinder. As soon as you see the brake fluid start entering the master cylinder, close off the caliper bleeder valve. Go to the other side caliper and repeat the process, but this time allow the master cylinder to fill with brake fluid. There will be a few bubbles as air is displaced from the second caliper. Once the master cylinder stops taking fluid from the second caliper or there are no more bubbles or the syringe is near empty, close off the bleeder valve. The master cylinder should be close to the required level. Check that you have brake pressure. If all good, top off to the correct level or syphon off if required.