Brakes Brakes Brakes

[Rookie]

Hi all. Can anyone give me some idea's for the best places to shop, for front caliper rebuild kits for a K7 DL1000 vee.I

Cheers then

[Rixington43]

I used the TRK kits from wemoto and was very happy with the quality.
There's also powerhouse performance who I've heard great things about but were a bit more expensive.

[The Doctor 46]

If you haven't looked already, there are lots on eBay, you can be more specific as to exactly what you need too. I guess you have looked ? I can't recommend any brand but I have used eBay parts before and they worked well, can't recall the seller though. Sorry. 


As mentioned above, Wemoto are very good. I have used them for Honda parts and can recommend, they even had a part that I had searched for for an age and couldn't find, a steering lock for a Honda XR650R. 
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Suzuki/k50?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIid-cysSKggMVCfV3Ch32OQzoEAAYASAAEgJd2PD_BwE

[UK_Vstrom650]

I've used Wemoto and Powerhouse Performance - both are good.

(If we were talking fork seals, I'd only use OEM having replaced a leaky seal with "quality non-OEM" only to have to replace them a few months later)

[purplebikeunicorn]

Had a TRK caliper rebuild kit incl pistons from Wemoto before, was a great comprehensive kit and included everything bar tools required!

Also stickers, because who doesn't love a toolbox adorned with stickers.

[Addzz]

I bought the TRK rebuild kits from Wemoto for both my DL, SV and a few other bikes over the years. Never had any issues with them

[Valzdl650]

Is it me or are the DL650 2005 front brake really bad, I have bled them twice now fully changed the fluid but still super spongey , I have braided lines and the callipers don’t look in bad nick but if I pull my front brake I’m pulling it basically until
It touched the handlebar, the front brake works however going 100 kmh and having to pull it maybe a different story, I’m thinking of getting a rebuild kit and seeing if that helps if not I have seen that you can upgrade using the cbr front brake which has 4 pistons

[crump]

@Valz.....I think the 650 front brakes are universally poor. My 2015 is quite spongey as was my mates 2014. He put braided hoses on which helped a lot. I'm Going to try ebc hh pads when the current ones are worn out and if that's no better I'll try braided hoses.

[UK_Vstrom650]

You should try tying your brake lever back overnight (or longer) - that always improves the braking feel for me. It's also worth cycling the ABS if applicable as that helps push any air out.

[mr_diver]

I had to strip the caliper every 6 months, clean everything, lube and put it all back.

I started popping the calipers off and cleaning the pistons and sliders every 3 months without disassembly.
Did this for the last 2.5 year of ownership and daily use without the need to do a full strip down.

I would flush the fluid every year.

I've used the TRK seal kits and master cylinder kits on the GSX1400 and my Varadero and the seal have lasted longer than OEM ones and I haven't needed to rebuild the GSX brakes in the last 4 years, which used to be an annual thing with OEM.

Generally the early 1000cc and all 650cc bike (ABS or not) suffer from "shit brake syndrome"
The cure is to fit some 4 or 6 pots from iirc late 90's CBR600 or ZX6 with SV racing parts mounts, some have changed the master cylinder for a slightly bigger diameter piston one, but with mixed results.

The outgoing 650cc bike it top of my shopping list when the Varadero needs to be replaced and after the touring accessories I'd want, a front brake upgrade is next on the list!

[Rixington43]

A caliper rebuild will more than likely help as sticky pistons or dragging on the slide pins will add to the feeling of a spongey lever.
As comparitively poor as the Gen 1 brakes are though, it should be possible to get a passable lever feel with fresh fluid and a good thorough bleed (The lever tying trick as mentioned below). The brakes will never feel amazing but you shouldn't be easily pulling the lever to the bars.

As Mr Diver says, I do a quick on bike clean and cycle the pistons back and forth every few rides, especially if I go near even a hint of salt. Swapping out for stainless pistons will hold this at bay a bit better though.

[Brockett]

Sliding calipers do need a bit more looking after. "Regular" cleaning in the summer and "Frequent" cleaning in the winter.  Keep the slide pins lubricated and pay attention to the pad retaining pins so they don't seize in the caliper and the centre of the pin does not corrode and inhibit pad movement. Chrome pistons  ( not just Suzuki's ) should be banned as salt will corrode them and as the chrome starts to peel it  tears the outer dust seal and then the pads don't fully release from the disc causing wear to both. Stainless, if available, may not be cheap but are a lot easier to live with. OE brake lines should be replaced every so many years (4) or they become soft as the internal pressure breakes down the structure of the line. An extreme example is on my 1998 Yamaha which may have still been fitted with the originals. When I  strapped the lever to the handle bar the line swelled by 0.4mm. taken over the length of the line most of the lever pressure was used up swelling the brake line. Braided brake lines from Wemoto sorted that out and I have to say the brakes on that old bike are now a bit too good for a bike without ABS. 

[V-Twin]

One other "get air out of the system" is to remove calipers and push the pistons back in as far as they go. Use a G clamp.
Lock them in place, then bleed the brakes.
I had a problem with a K6 DL1000 last year, and that cured the spongy feel completely.

[Rookie]

Thanks everyone for your replies,  I will be looking at wemoto over the weekend.  It is a job I've been putting off, for a later date. It looks like stainless steel is the way to go for the future.

Cheers then 

[Rixington43]

Grab yourself a cheap plastic seal pick if you've not already.
It will help with cleaning out the seal grooves which will more than likely have some oxidation in them.
Nice steady job, stress test the kettle before winter as well 😉

[Rookie]

Cheers Rexington that's a good shout, I think my biggest problem is going to be the brake pins as they seem to be seized solid 

[Pete O Tube]

With the calipers cleaned & lubed, new pads and lines bled, try some dog leg levers for a little extra leverage and feel.

[Valzdl650]

Yes I used a syringe and fully drained out the master cylinder then flushed it and was pumping and flushing for about 30 minutes but still exactly the same.. then I thought maybe there’s an air bubble in the little bit where the piston is ( I saw a diagram and it said that sometime the air bubble can get in here) I bled brake and then striped the master cylinder and then re pumped the brakes but still the same , sonthats why I think maybe I do a rebuild of the caliper ?I haven’t taken them apart but they are clean, no rust and look completely fine but this is the next step, weekend work

[Valzdl650]

Yes I have found a pair for 99€ this is another thing I want , the misses is going mental!!!

[purplebikeunicorn]

Do not overlook the master cylinder seals if you just cannot get them working as they should, rebuild kits often available or brand new aftermarket. They can be fiddly (I had to "adjust" my circlip pliers to fit my last bike).

Valz don't be afraid to take the calipers off the bike (put a piece of wood in the caliper to prevent the pistons fully coming out, it'll make a mess), pop them on a box or something so you can orientate them whichever way you want.

Also a good point, I tried to use a "one man bleeder" kit, but it would appear that the amount of fluid / pressure on a bike circuit just couldn't overcome the one way valve. Changed back to old fashioned method and it worked perfectly.