DL650 won’t start:(

[Valzdl650]

Hello. Was wondering if anyone could help , bike won’t start, almost felt like a car about to conk when it is run out of fuel , I have full tank and new battery I will upload a video , hopefully some one has some insight, would be really appreciated

[The Doctor 46]

Maybe the most stupid question in the world but, it is full of petrol and not diesel? Many years ago after an augment and I was very tired I filled up from empty with diesel. Before that I thought it an impossible mistake to make with a motorbike, I was wrong!   

[Valzdl650]

Yes full with petrol , I changed the clutch assembly and the new one had no switch so I looped it with a paperclip I then drove around 20 km and it started to bunny hop as if it had run out of fuel, I pulled over managed to get it going, got to the shop , bought the clutch switch but then wouldn’t start,electrics on but sounds like a flat battery , although battery is two weeks old and I have ridden every day , I can’t upload a video

[Fat Rat]

Post your video on YouTube and add a link here 

[Gert]

The starting circuit has a few inline safety switches, that need to be taken into account.
These safety switches are:  !) bike in neutral when the side satnd is down, 2) cutout (kill) switch is in the run position and 3) the clutch switch being activated by the clutch lever.

Do you have power to the gauges and headlights?
Does the fuel pump prime when you turn on the ignition switch?
Is the clutch switch connector plugged in and making contact?
With the ignition on, does the motor crank when you pull in the the clutch lever while pressing the starter button?

[Valzdl650]

Thanks blokes for all the messages, last night wouldn’t turn over , all lights was on the noises when you first turn the key all completely normal but it just wouldn’t turn over sounded like a flat battery.
Took battery out took home and charged , even thou it’s 3 week old?? Went back today put it in and it started although same problem was backfiring and everytime I let go of the throttle it cut out, managed to get her back home but was very boggy and didn’t go over 60 kmh, got back and it cut out and wouldn’t start. All electrics was on and noises when you turn the key completely normal..


Now I have taken the spark plug out and It isn’t sparking however it doesn’t have any sot or it’s not covered in oil, looks normal so maybe there is a problem here somewhere??

Greatful for any help

[Valzdl650]

https://youtube.com/shorts/l1repRfXmv4?si=-af93FF-4yjrmNjn


This is how it was yesterday before I took out the battery

I will upload a video how it was today after putting battery in

[Rixington43]

The clicking is classic flat battery. If you can get it running again then see what voltage you have at the battery terminals as it may not be charging properly.
The plug not sparking is odd though, maybe a coil pack or HT lead issue.
The SV650s were known to get water trapped in the spark plug recess when ridden in the wet, there's a drain hole half way down the side of the cylinder which can get blocked and then water gets past the plug cap and pools around the plug. Instant single cylinder and a very unhappy runner.

[Valzdl650]

https://youtube.com/shorts/6KQkSWSsV9I?si=icDn1d0s7E3N_L8f

This was this morning , battery fully charged , bike feels very boggy, as if a big ball was stuck in the exhaust , managed to get it home , but now fault finding , battery back on charge spark plug out , but it’s not sparking ?

[V-Twin]

That to me sounds like it's only running on one cylinder.
Test/check Coil
Check plugs

[purplebikeunicorn]

I would disconnect all aftermarket gizmos for the time being, just in case there is one that is misbehaving and drawing current all the time even when the key is off (and draining your battery), maybe there are two issues.

I would also check your oil level is OK (not too high), and check it doesn't smell strongly of petrol. Although the battery sounds weak, if the starter motor is struggling for some reason (something in the cylinder for instance) it may draw more current than normal.

[Gert]

First off, make sure that the hot idle speed is set at 1300rpm +/- 100. Adust the remote idle adjuster if necessary and see whether there is any improvement.  Note the K4 - K6 Wee have a idle adjuster on the left hand side.

If no improvement, place your ride into dealer mode and report back on the position the minus sign in front of the C00 code when the engine is at idle, plus at what rpm does the minus sign move to the upper mark. See
https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html.
The video could be misleading when you blip the throttle.  Does the bike rpm increase  smoothly when you slowly apply throttle?

If it is a failing TPS, readjusting the TPS will move the cut out flat spot to a different rpm.  The TPS failure could be compared to a radio with a scratchy volume control.

[Valzdl650]

http://youtube.com/shorts/QY1gcISNUPA?si=Ikxym2cH37ih5xni

OK thanks blokes , so battery was on charge almighty I scotched bright the spark plug and it was sparking and this is how it is now , starts and then cuts out
I will go threw the comments and now just keep fault finding 😫😫😫

[Valzdl650]

https://youtube.com/shorts/I6HpyCTguwM?si=f0aP6lXV8jZTRNvZ

Update , starts but keeps cutting out
https://youtube.com/shorts/Z4z7Um8yQ5k?si=arWmzxLGT8H7Zjwl

Second video is the trottle and secondary valve activator , should they be moving together??

[Gert]

I suspect that the engine may be too cold and not yet at operating temp.
The STVA action is the ECU controlling the STV stepper motor and will eventually stop once the ECU has varified certain voltage readings.  https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,12404.0.html
Can you let the bike idle to reach 3 bars and see whether there is any improvement. Also confirm the idle speed once the temp reading is at 3 bars?

[Gert]

Have a look at the STV action in the video linked in https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=33183.0

[Valzdl650]

Yes my stva was definatly not moving like the one in the video I will
Go threw all of the links and let you know if it fixed it, I had no warning light and in dealer mode said no faults , when I was riding it home the FI came up but I had to take the key out to open the seat!! So the light went off but thanks again for all the help I have wd40 the valve mechanisms so will temp put back in filter and tank to see if it works

[Valzdl650]

OK so put everything back together and problem is still therehttps://youtu.be/v6vE4vZrgdU?feature=shared

[Valzdl650]

Didn’t leave a space after the post when attaching the link so here it is , bike won’t idle and just cuts out now, https://youtu.be/v6vE4vZrgdU?feature=shared

[purplebikeunicorn]

With the secondaries stepping closed in the earlier videos, I wondered if the position sensor is bad, and as per that other thread the ECU is just stepping the secondaries back until they are closed too much to idle, hence the stall. There is a testing regime in the service manual downloadable on this site, page 5-28 "Fuel System Diagnosis".

Do the secondaries now open/close or close/open when you turn on the ignition? If you watch one of your last "shorts" back, you see that when the bike stalls the secondaries open again. They should in theory do that when you turn on the ignition, at least they do on the newer bikes.

It might be prudent to follow advice from Gert and get the bike warmed up, use the throttle to keep it running, and see if it will stay running once warm.

Final point: Your heated grips appear to be flashing blue. I have no idea what brand they are, but make sure that means that they're not on, otherwise you've just found your battery killer!