Veek aux power socket swap

[Caffs]

Has anyone changed their power supply socket to a dual USB socket?
Looking for any advice if possible.
 

[Barbel Mick]

Should just be a matter of removing the existing one and re-connecting the USB. The only problem you may have is access to the rear of whatever the existing one is fixed to.
You might want to check the fuse rating too, any USB powered auxiliary won't be pulling many amps and you may have a higher rated fuse than necessary in the system, say, if it was used for an air pump or similar.

[Oop North John]

On my 2020 650 I swapped the cigarette socket for a digital voltmeter, so a similar job. I bought another expensive Suzuki cigarette socket and chopped off the leads just short of it, and then added on spade connectors to fit the cables to fit onto the voltmeter. So I can return to stock easily, and it's as protected as if it were stock. My stock cigarette lighter, according to the manual can take 36w which equals 3 amps, so if your USB's outputs are a 2A and 1A then there shouldn't be any need to change fuses. I'd not change the fuse as the cable isn't very substantial and better to blow a 5p fuse that burn out the bike's wiring.
For the best of both worlds, something like this might be good (never used one myself) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002997872942.html?spm=a2g0o.search0304.0.0.174965abslNr9L&algo_pvid=e93d829a-9e9b-4b56-9f81-274a2f3e6ee5&algo_exp_id=e93d829a-9e9b-4b56-9f81-274a2f3e6ee5-5&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000023136664737%22%7D&pdp_npi=1%40dis%7CUSD%7C%7C5.19%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%402100bb4916516436793362466e9aaa%7C12000023136664737%7Csea

[purplebikeunicorn]

Standard fuse is 3A on the AL7, I wouldn't change from the OEM - really the fuse is to protect the wiring against shorts (I.e. the wiring chafes through, and shorts to the frame, the fuse will blow), rather than protecting the end device.

12V at 3A is 36W, a USB charger outputting 3A (1x2A and 1x1A) is only going to output about 15W, and high efficiency switching buck converters are used even in cheaper electronics now, so probably not more than 20W of power used at full whack.

One possible hurdle you may have is the connector if you don't wish to hack your OEM harness apart (if it's the same sort as the AL7). I can't recall what connector it was (I had mine off repairing the wiring from the previous owners accessories that they'd removed), but there was a short pigtail from the actual socket which joined a plug on the n/s/f harness.

Edit: Here's a pic of the pigtail end (the pin is half out because I removed the plug to pop some glue lined heatshrink on to repair the wires). Again AL7, but may be similar!