DL1000 K5 clutch pushrod seal replacement - instruction.

[pichulec]

Hello. Recently I have replaced leaking clutch pushrod seal and documented the process. I would like to share this with you blokes, it might be useful for someone in the future.

Approx time to do the job without rushing: 3h. Difficulty: Basic technical knowledge required.

Put the bike in gear first.

Disassembly

To replace the clutch pushrod seal we will have to remove few parts first, in the order below:

- undo the oil drain bolt and drain the oil
- Unbolt clutch slave cylinder with the piston seal and remove it  - 2 bolts (to prevent piston coming out, use zip tie around the slave cylinder. To get the slave cylinder out of the way, use another zip tie to mount it somewhere above - I have used crash bars for that)
- remove clutch pushrod
- remove the sprocket cover - 3 bolts (remove speed sensor from the cover - 1 bolt)
- remove speed sensor part from the top of the front sprocket - 1 bolt
- unbolt the front sprocket but don't remove it yet (you need to create slack first in order to do it)
- remove the rear wheel nut and take the axle out.
- remove the chain from the rear sprocket to create necessary slack
- now remove the chain from the front sprocket and then remove front sprocket itself
- clean the whole area - very likely it will be very messy out there
- unbolt the alternator cover - 12 bolts if I remember correctly (keep the cables connected to the stator, use zip tie to hang the cover above the engine, to get it out of the way). You will need new gasket to reassembly.
- unbolt and remove the clutch pushrod seal covering plate - 2 bolts
- remove the seal (I have used push rod to remove the seal - after removing the covering plate nothing is holding it - seal is sitting flush in the hole)

Reassembly

- install the new seal - it must sit flush with the surface of the engine
- reinstall the clutch seal covering plate
- install new gasket for alternator cover
- reinstall alternator cover - 11Nm torque on the bolts
- reinstall front sprocket - 100Nm torque + blue loctite, bolt it on and put the chain on it
- reinstall speed sensor part on top of the sprocket
- get a bit of engine oil on top of the pushrod and slide it in into new seal
- put the chain back on rear sprocket and reinstall the rear wheel - torque the nut to 100Nm
- reinstall sprocket cover
- reinstall speed sensor onto sprocket cover
- reinstall clutch slave cylinder onto sprocket cover
- fill the engine oil

Job done, no more oil leaks

[porter]

I can't speak for the older model vstrom like Pichulec's above but for the 2014 model on you do not need to remove the alternator cover to replace the clutch pushrod seal. Yes it would give you much more room but you can get by without removing it, plus no need to drain the oil either if you don't remove the cover as seal is above the oil level if the bike is on the main stand.
In my case I think the chain lube picked up some road grit and took the seal out, 150 mile from home. I rode it home, stopping often to check the oil level but it didn't go down much, looked and smelled worse than it was!  I now only use engine oil and a scotoiler on the chain.

[old git]

I've just replaced the chain and sprockets on mine. I've never used wet chain lube on the V-Strom, only Wurth dry spray. Very little crud under the sprocket cover and certainly nothing like the mess when I used wet lubes on chain.

[Gassoon]

   thanks for posting this pichulec!