Author Topic: DL650A L2 Winterisation checklist (Read 1924 times)

Lemonwizard · « **on:** November 23, 2020, 08:53:16 »

Good morning,

this is my first time preparing my bike for winter hibernation and I'm hoping you blokes can help me here.

What I have done so far:

Cleaned the dust and insects off of painted parts and the front of the motorcycle (eg headlights) as well as the below the pillion seat. Basically everywhere I could reach with a rag in my hand. I did however not give it a full wash like you can do at a garage, so there is still dust and grime on parts which are hard to reach by hand.
I thoroughly cleaned and lubed the chain.
Gave the whole bike a real good spritz of S100 Anti Corrosion spray which should be an equivalent to ACF50. Pretty much sprayed it everywhere except on the obvious plastic parts and breaking system.
Both wheels are off the ground, and I sprayed them with a tyre care product which is supposed to be good for rubber.
I blocked the exhaust with rolled up cardboard.
Put a cover over the bike before I leave.

Yet on my todo-list:

Unfortunately I couldn't find any ethanol free fuel, so I'm going to fill the tank to the brim with fuel and put some stabiliser in.
Remove the spark plugs and put a bit of motor oil into the chambers as described in the manual.
Inflate the tyres.
Remove the battery and do all the usual stuff with it.
Over the holidays I'll take a look at the coolant liquid and the radiator (saw some insects on there which I haven't removed yet).
Inspect the chain tension some time during the holidays.
Check brake fluid levels.

What I have not done and would like to avoid if not essential:

Changing the motor oil since it was already changed about 4 months ago and I only drove about 900 miles.
Checking the spark plugs for wear since those were also replaced about 4 months ago.

I have one specific question: I read that when you mix the fuel with the stabiliser, you should let the motor run for a few minutes, but I also read that letting the motor idle for a short time is bad because of condensation build up. I can't take it out on the streets anymore since I've already returned the licence plate. What do? Turn it on and rev it up in neutral for half an hour?

Thanks.

tallpaul · « **Reply #1 on:** November 23, 2020, 08:54:58 »

My winter prep- plug in battery optimiser.

Loopian · « **Reply #2 on:** November 23, 2020, 09:16:20 »

Personally if I’ve got to leave a bike unused for an extended period of time l like to leave it with clean engine and gearbox oil.
Ian

graingerblaze · « **Reply #3 on:** November 23, 2020, 12:29:02 »

That’s a comprehensive list... even my OCD doesn’t go that far. I always winter my bikes, can’t be bothered freezing my nuts or dressing like Michelin man. So I do the following:

Deep clean (Sdoc 1000 and some wash & wax).
Oil and filter change.
Air filter clean (or replace).
Battery charger plugged in.
Fresh fuel and add preservative.

I pop my head in the garage once a week and turn the front wheel over, spin the rear and check the battery and that’s it.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #4 on:** November 23, 2020, 12:34:20 »

Some of the things you will pick up off the internet are clearly intended for bikes left outside in the frozen wastes.

Fuel injection doesn't store any noticeable volume of fuel in the system so running it with the stabiliser in is somewhat pointless - that advice is meant for us with carburettors and float bowls.

Oil down the bores a bit of a throwback as well I think: you're more likely to give yourself problems starting after the winter when it tries to run with what you thought was just a tiny drop in there. Plugging the exhaust is interesting: what's your thought process there? Water getting in (looks like a roofed car park to me) or mice setting up home? I'd be more inclined to allow it to breathe than block in any dampness that might remain. I'd make sure the milky oil issue that can afflict Glees had been dried out before parking: if the oil isn't that old then it's not really worth changing.

To be honest, I do very little on my bikes for their hibernation: fuel stabiliser and keep an eye on batteries is about it.

After winter then tyre pressures, oil, water & brake fluid levels, brake pads/calipers and lights should be checked before you take it out again, and you should give the bike a shake before you try firing as the fuel stabiliser can settle & cause issues otherwise. I tend not to fill before stabilising and that lets me throw a few litres of fresh fuel in as well.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2020, 14:45:33 »

Just in case I don't use it over the winter (but hope to) ....good clean, ACF 50 where necessary, change the oil & filter, check tyre pressures, fill the tank & plug the Optimate in.
Check the tyres & charging every now and then.
If I do get to use it then a few hundred miles with the fresh oil will be OK, in my mind.

I won't start it unless it's going to get at least a half hour run, or better still, an hour or two.

Sea-Strom · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2020, 16:44:51 »

My winter program is to ride every day. It's fairly mild here by the sea but wet and salty. Can't be arsed with spray treatments but paint engine oil on bare metal and hose down bike after gritting or sandy rides. I'm OK with winterisation when it's needed, in harsh climate etc but don't care much for hiding rather than riding a bike. These DLs are tough - in the UK I've ridden my gen I, II, and will ride my III 650 up to 350 days every year. Some bikes are part exed as immaculate after the owner took great care. I want the best of mine and don't care too much about the g*u*y who eventually buys it. However I never criticise anyone...we all do as we choose. Unfortunately part ex immaculate bikes get very little more than OK ones. You have to really mistreat a machine to trash it. I admit to being secretly jealous of the sparkling older bikes but my dirtyish bikes get ridden not hidden. Some bikes sadly get hidden in mild weather. Another approach would be to ride it less in the winter - say weekly.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2020, 17:51:05 »

You missed one.

Remove and destroy ridiculous beak

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2020, 17:55:12 »

~~Beak~~ snowplough

Lemonwizard · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2020, 22:14:13 »

Well, I've been told on multiple occasions that I tend to overdo things. Guess it's true

I'll cross putting oil into boreholes as well as letting the stabilised fuel "circulate" through the motor off my list then. Thanks.

Cardboard into exhaust: I don't think there are mice in the garage but I figured it couldn't hurt. I also thought that the cardboard might perhaps help pull out moisture from within the exhaust. I didn't stop to think that it might have the opposite effect though.

Milky oil: I'll check that next time I'm in the garage, thanks for the tip.

About riding throughout winter: Yes, I'd love to do that, the weather here would certainly allow it on many days. Just for this winter and probably the next one I will be winterising my Strom due to multiple different reaons. Once the issues are out of the way I'll go ham. I agree that bikes are meant to be ridden and not hidden, but I also want to keep mine fresh for as long as possible.

Lemonwizard · « **Reply #10 on:** December 08, 2020, 19:48:41 »

Good evening,

I removed the cardboard from the exhaust plug due to the suggestion it might trap moisture inside the exhaust. I doubt there are any mice and if there are, they'll nest in one of the other cars that only stand around for months.

I checked the oil sight glass for the milky oil. No milk, but the oil seems to be pretty murky? Or is it the glass itself that's sludgy? Any point in doing some cleaning there? Oil change (~ 4 months/900m since last change)?
Full res image here: https://imgur.com/a/A6axI0R

kwackboy · « **Reply #11 on:** December 08, 2020, 20:29:42 »

Apart from looking over filled, I'd leave the oil if it was changed 900miles ago .

Ianmc · « **Reply #12 on:** December 08, 2020, 20:48:20 »

If the bike is on the centre stand the level is about right.The level in my L2 drops from a small bubble at the top of the glass when on the centre stand to spot on when its on its wheels.

vstroman · « **Reply #13 on:** December 09, 2020, 00:08:16 »

Would you change the oil before Winter or wait until Springtime? Will not be riding much from now till March. Oil change is just about due.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #14 on:** December 09, 2020, 00:12:21 »

If it's heading for due then you're as well getting all the crap out of the engine before leaving it to fester all winter.

Ianmc · « **Reply #15 on:** December 09, 2020, 00:14:05 »

Personally I would leave it until spring.Then take it for a short run to get it hot, and drain it straight away before it cools, any winter condensation and emulsification should then exit with the old oil.If you change it now there will be moisture in the crankcase next spring from standing a couple of months over winter.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #16 on:** December 09, 2020, 00:21:47 »

Yeah, leave all those acidic combustion by-products in there as long as you can to go with that moisture...

Rixington43 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 09, 2020, 07:58:16 »

One I like to do which I think is more a hangover from doing it on mountain bikes is to whip the calipers off, clean the slave pistons and retract them all the way into their bores so the outer faces aren't exposed to any elements with them in a static position. Just leave yourself a note to pump them back out before first ride next year 😉.

graingerblaze · « **Reply #18 on:** December 09, 2020, 16:34:09 »

As always from FortNine a useful video.

Andy_J · « **Reply #19 on:** December 09, 2020, 16:54:44 »

You are preparing it well. I would not remove the plugs or change the oil and filters though. I would do that just before I put it back on the road in spring.

Fuel stabiliser is good though. I use sea foam in my tank every winter.