Author Topic: Clutch  (Read 1168 times)

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Offline Joy Strom

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Clutch
« on: August 14, 2020, 16:49:38 »
I’m just coming to the end of a tour of Scotland and the bike has done close to 2000 miles in a week and close to 7300 miles. Now, I don’t think I’m imagining things especially as I should be in tip top riding form but, I feel I’m experiencing erratic gear changes.  About and hour ago having spent an hour getting lost and found in Edinburgh, I noticed that when pulling the clutch lever in, there was a prolonged moment before the rev counter needle dropped back.  Soon after noticing this I stopped to look at the map but since then the symptoms described did not occur.

Clutch fluid maybe, it’s quite dark but then it always was fairly dark from new  :shrug:

Offline hotbulb

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2020, 17:39:40 »
Does the chain need adjustment?....this may cause gearchange problems. Is the engine oil due to be changed? .... this may affect the feel of the clutch, and gearchanging problems.

Offline kwackboy

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2020, 17:55:42 »
Erratic gear changes can be caused by a maladjusted clutch lever or loose chain.

After the amount of miles you have done maybe some checks are in order.

 
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Offline Barbel Mick

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2020, 18:21:25 »
You don't say at what mileage it was last serviced.
All, or any, of the above suggestions could be the problem
Mick

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Offline Joy Strom

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2020, 19:36:41 »
Due it’s second service in a couple of hundred miles.

Chain all fine. A little slacker than specification but that’s where I put it and it hasn’t budged.

Offline Barbel Mick

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2020, 20:06:04 »
Am I correct in thinking the service interval is now 7,500 miles?
Does that mean your first service was sub 1000 miles?
If so I would suggest changing the oil & filter.
Although I have a 650 (2013) I find that the gear box has always started to feel 'notchy' at around 3k miles and finding neutral can be a pain.  I always change oil & filter around that mileage & as soon as I have everything is good again.
Mick

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Offline Joy Strom

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2020, 19:38:24 »
It’s booked for a service so let’s see what the pros say.

Thanks for your input everyone.

Offline old git

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2020, 19:50:10 »
It's not unknown for the clutch slave cylinder seal to fail. Early symptoms would likely be clutch dragging.

Offline Ice man mikey

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2020, 20:46:40 »
I've experienced problems with my 2014 DL1000 clutch, under warranty it had a new slave cylinder fitted by the first owner and I bought the bike in 2016. discovered leak around the slave area so it went back for a second slave cylinder. over time I've encountered gear change problems and find the clutch reservoir needs monitoring and keeping fully topped plus I  change engine oil and filter annually and  make sure its always topped up.
I've also changed the push rod and seal and built a shroud over the seal as all the chain crud congeals on the rod and seal. May help to future proof it. Good luck 

Offline paulja

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2020, 22:55:42 »
Clutch drag would be easy to spot, put bike on centre stand, start engine, clutch in, put into gear... rear wheel turns slowly if clutch is dragging.

My experience is that gear changes gets 'notchy' when the chain is too slack, Vstrom doesn't have a lot of tolerance.
In my defence, she did leave me unsupervised.

Offline mr_diver

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2020, 08:04:05 »
All wet clutches will drag with cold oil.

Let engine oil warm up and you'll see the wheel slow down and then stop.

If it doesn't then you may have an issue.



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Offline vstroman

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2020, 12:23:07 »
Good info on the clutch drag thing, I have noticed it on some bikes before, what's the fix for it?

Offline mr_diver

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2020, 12:45:31 »
What?
Clutch drag?
The answer is adjust the clutch correctly if it's cable.
Hydraulic- make sure the slave and master cylinders function and don't leak, replace hoses if old, cracked and perished. Change fluid if old and make sure the clutch rod is free to move.
Basic maintenance.

If your asking how to stop the rear wheel turning with bike on centre stand until the oils warms up...
Buy a bike with a dry clutch!

The oil when cold has a low enough viscosity and enough substance to allow the rotational force from one clutch plate to exert a force on the other.
More plates means more force so the wheel turns until the oil warms, becomes 'thinner' and the wheel stops turning.

It's not a fault, it's a interesting happening with multi plate wet clutches.



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Offline kwackboy

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2020, 13:09:46 »
A spinning rear wheel on the centre stand is pretty much normal, no fix needed.

Off the centre stand, If your bike is moving with the clutch lever pulled in then yes , there's a problem , see divers post.
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Offline Joy Strom

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2020, 18:38:08 »
Okay, so the erratic nature of gear changes I experienced (associated to the operations of releasing of the clutch lever and applying throttle) was caused by the cable to clutch becoming detached. With it attached, everything became easy and smooth again.

Offline kwackboy

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #15 on: August 23, 2020, 18:42:10 »
What cable ? If you have a 1000xt your clutch should be hydraulic.   :shrug:
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Offline Joy Strom

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #16 on: August 23, 2020, 19:25:57 »
Indeed it is hydraulic. I meant the electric cable.

Offline kwackboy

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Re: Clutch
« Reply #17 on: August 23, 2020, 19:30:30 »
 :thumb:
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