Author Topic: Adding a switch / spots (Read 1337 times)

STORMY · « **on:** June 23, 2020, 13:29:31 »

I’m hoping somebody can help I’m a bit stuck, wiring / electrics really not my strength unfortunately

Previous setup:
Spots directly wired up to a Jamie Jones relay/fuse box, spots on and off with ignition.
Proposed set up:
I’m looking to incorporate a switch so I can turn off the spots etc.
Take a look at the pictures I’ve uploaded, this set up did not work I’m clearly doing something wrong but what is it?

Pay particular attention downstream of the spots where I’ve attached to new wires, does this look correct (a piece of plain white paper underneath to highlight this area) and just below the switch where I’ve made another join, again is this correct?
Just to add the spots worked perfectly before I started this adjustment
All fuses were changed, and my son will be over at the end of the week with a multimeter to check the connections where I spliced them together.
Thanks blokes

Brockett · « **Reply #1 on:** June 23, 2020, 13:48:42 »

The switch divides the positive wire. It looks like you have the switch dividing the negative wire.

STORMY · « **Reply #2 on:** June 23, 2020, 13:53:09 »

Ah right, so join up the black wires, and the red ones go to the switch. That sounds like it might work thank you Brockett

Brockett · « **Reply #3 on:** June 23, 2020, 14:04:15 »

I suggest you fit a very low amp fuse when you connect it all to the bike and then test it with the spotlights switchset to off.
If all is well you can fit the correct size fuse to take the load of the spotlights and switch on.

STORMY · « **Reply #4 on:** June 23, 2020, 14:08:24 »

Good thinking will do

thanks again. Once I’ve tested I’ll let come back and let you know

STORMY · « **Reply #5 on:** June 23, 2020, 17:07:36 »

Hi Brockett definitely a 50% improvement one spot works the other doesn’t, flip the spot connectors and the other spot works.
Suspect the wire connection on the dead side - what do you reckon?
Thanks

Brockett · « **Reply #6 on:** June 23, 2020, 17:11:36 »

Yes check the wiring for dry joints etc. A multi-meter is useful for continuity testing.

STORMY · « **Reply #7 on:** June 23, 2020, 17:14:58 »

Brilliant thanks Brockett, you’ve put me on the right track I really appreciate it

Brockett · « **Reply #8 on:** June 23, 2020, 17:36:36 »

There's first time for everything after all.
Let me if it works without flashing and smoke and I celebrate with an extra digestive with my cocoa.

STORMY · « **Reply #9 on:** June 23, 2020, 20:23:10 »

Hi Brockett traced the faulty connection and rejoined it, and guess what it worked

Next job tank off and run the harness up to the bars (first time for tank removal), break out that extra digestive you’ve definitely earned it

, thanks again for your help saved me a lot of head scratching

Mr Nick · « **Reply #10 on:** June 23, 2020, 20:39:45 »

Top diagnosing Mr B!

Brockett · « **Reply #11 on:** June 24, 2020, 10:21:26 »

"Glad to be of service" ( as the chatty doors in the Hitch Hiker's Guide say)

welldc · « **Reply #12 on:** June 24, 2020, 11:55:26 »

I used a long, stiff zip tie with wires taped to it to feed them from the headstock and down the side of the tank to the battery ( or the other way).
Maybe a piece of welding rod or even a wire coat hanger would work?

Ricky1000 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 24, 2020, 13:13:13 »

Great post I will be mounting Heed Crash bars and DRLs next week and I was wondering about the wiring. I'll be using bigpies aux fuse box.

STORMY · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2020, 21:57:08 »

Have to say what a pig of a job removing the tank and reinstalling was, trust me to pick the hottest day of the year didn’t help.. A few things that might help out others.....
Those small black plastic fasteners are released by depressing the central section, and when reinstalling pull the mid section down, insert, and then depress the central sanction until it clicks.
However the biggest cause of angst were the two retaining bolts holding the tuppware down, Jesus H Christ they were a friggin nightmare (see pic). They screw into a bendy’ish metal support , get one side in the other ain’t going.
How I did it.
Stuffed a clean microfibre rag under one side to support it, go to other side get it started don't tighten, return to the side supported by rag eventually I got it started, pull the microfibre out.
Not sure if anybody else has suffered this issue, anyway it worked for me.
All done, and the spots work just fine but took me longer than anticipated.

Brockett · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2020, 22:01:51 »

Nice switch. EBAY?

STORMY · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2020, 22:03:53 »

SW Motech, I did buy an eBay switch but thought better of it

Ricky1000 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 25, 2020, 12:04:37 »

Brocket you mention fitting a low amp fuse to test the system before fitting the correct amp fuse. I'll be doing the same as Stormy next week, what is the correct size fuse for DRLs 12v,
15W power and 125W light power.

Brockett · « **Reply #18 on:** June 25, 2020, 18:36:00 »

I am not qualified to answer that question.
I suggested a low amp fuse in case the wiring is not up to the load or properly connected / insulated and so that it would blow the fuse before the wiring caught fire.

There are people on here who know whereas I can only guess.

Ricky1000 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 25, 2020, 19:03:27 »

Thanks Brocket for the reply mabey some over kind person will have an answer. Heed Bars arrived today 4 days from Poland great service. Fitted in half an hour impressed with the quality. The lights ordered at the same time from UK still no word.