Bloody ignition lock seized

[mr_diver]

I've used Graphite on a few locks too.

Regularly on the Super Sherpa I had as the barrel was quite troublesome.
You had to push the key down and forwards as you rotate it clockwise until it clicked into the on position.
then pull it back or it would jump out of On 100 yards down the road.   

My Wee could also have the key pulled out while in the On position... I handed it to the mate next to me at a set of lights and rode off.
Knowing he'd have to stay and have to out it in a pocket to keep it safe for me. I'm an annoying prick on times. But it was funny.

[ipod]

Don't know if it's any good to you but here is a pic showing the lock from the back.

[mr_diver]

The lock barrel on most bikes will be held in by 'security' bolts.

They tend to snap when you try to remove them and are thread locked just to make it harder. 
The Honda ones are designed to snap!

If you do order the lockset... it's £475 but you can replace the just the ignition, £250.
But then you'll have a different key for the seat and tank.
(Don't order ones for 2010 they will not fit.)

[hotbulb]

If you can get the lock barrel off, it just might be worth taking it to a good locksmith who may be able to refurbish it(?), or replace it and provide a new (and reprogrammed) key. After all, a lock barrel is a fairly simple (if precision) thing - the complications arise with the electronic immobiliser kit, which is really a separate thing.

[UK_Vstrom650]

This might help Rusty (although Photobucket stupidity has broken the pics)

https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/sticky-ignition-lock-fix-w-pics.66706/

[hotbulb]

UK_Vstrom650..... that's what I was thinking of, probably! I've come across the "filing the wafers" trick elsewhere, too... and to paraphrase somebody in the Stromtrooper thread, who bothers to pick a VStrom ignition lock?

[UK_Vstrom650]

Agreed. And if you don't want to file the ignition lock wafers, you could always swap them with the wafers from one of the other locks on the bike, so the filed ones are in another lock.

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks, all.
Just a little progress after work today, rain and incomplete knowledge stopped play.
Which are the "security" ( good word to use around motorcycles) screws that need removing / drilling?
Does the bit I want to faff abouth with need unplugging from the loom, or will the electrickificated bits stay on the bike?
Out with your crayons, big arrows and helpful graffiti added to the picture very welcome ( no cock & balls doodling, TLP)

[kwackboy]

If you are going to fettle with the ignition remove it completely.
This will mean drilling off the head on the circled bolt plus the other one and unplug it from the loom.
I'm pretty sure they are M8 threads that'll be left over, once the heads are drilled off take off the ignition then you should be able to turn out the remaining threads with a set of mole grips.

[UK_Vstrom650]

It unplugs from the loom under the airbox, just above the radiator (IIRC throttle side)

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks, both. Thought it was those heads, they just looked bigger than I was expecting. I'm thinking of swapping internals with those from the comparatively unused seat lock if they prove to be interchangeable. Obviously the seat lock might be a simpler thing what with its lower security requirements, but we'll see.

[TLPower]

Harsh.

[endintears]

Apologies in advance if this in practice might be as counter productive as injecting Dettol for Covid-19 but if you can get it off what about putting it an ultrasonic cleaner.

[hotbulb]

Mr Trump says it's good for you!

[p47]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-DL650-A-V-STROM-L3-2013-LOCKSET-COMPLETE-IN-GOOD-CONDITION/273575833607?hash=item3fb263f007:g:15sAAOSwVYhb-DXj

if all else fails..

[daveged]

Got a brand new lock set here if you want it -would not fit my 07 wee-dismantled the old lock good clean & lube -now works fine

[Rusty Nuts]

Okay then, had a bit of a faff after work, the internals are looking a bit sorry for themselves. It looks as though the keyway itself is worn, resulting in the key not retracting the wafers enough to get past the lugs inside the barrel.
The first pic shows the cylinder with key out, and as you'd expect the wafers are all standing proud and ready to block any attempt to turn the lock.
Second picture is with the key in, and as you can see the wafers at the bottom are not fully retracting. Thi, I'm sure, is my problem. The video shows how much movement there is when wiggling the key and how it affects the position of the wafers.
Question is, what's the cure?
Some say file/sand/grind them so they are flush when the kiy is inserted, but will that make it too easy to turn the lock without the correct key - or indeed, any key? If I take the seat lock out will it be the same as the ignition lock in terms of lugs at the top and bottom where it engages?

[UK_Vstrom650]

Not sure if filing will make any key work or not, but I suppose a similar key might turn it?
You asked intbhe What have you done with your v-strom thread how to remove the wafers. According to this at 2:45, you just grab pliers and pull the pins out...

[Rusty Nuts]

Ah, thanks. Didn't want to try unlicensed dentistry, I usually only rag things in bits if I can see how they went together.
All the best to your wife and family, G. Can't be easy or much fun organising a house with a sufferer and kids.

[UK_Vstrom650]

Cheers Rusty    The kids are slowly going ferral but fed and watered 

It's a shame we're still in lockdown or I'd pop round to give you a hand. Good luck and keep up the good work