Bloody ignition lock seized

[Rusty Nuts]

As above. Luckily at home not work. Unluckily in the middle of the patio with the steering locked. Got it free eventually, so the bike's away in the shed.
There's been quite a bit on here about fixing / replacing the things, Robinsons Foundry are showing £400+ for a lock set for up to L0 version, no info for 2012 glee parts but suspect similar.
So, who has actually removed, fettled and replaced a glee lock successfully without having to buy anything much except possibly a couple of security screws?
How easy was it?
How do yu do it?
Why didn't you video it for me to watch?
When you've all finished sniggering, any pertinent advice would be very welcome.
Thank you.

[tallpaul]

Does the barrel feel tight or is it like the key isn't fully inserting?

[Barbel Mick]

Have you tried your spare key? I had a similar problem, the key was slightly twisted and a pain to use.
If it's not that, then the first thing I would do is put a little bit of graphite powder or graphite lock lube into it, or put a little on each side of your key before inserting, then working your key in and out.
I would avoid the likes of WD40, it may release the lock but will leave a residue to which more shite will stick and cause more problems.
 

[kwackboy]

Yes, don't park it in the middle of the patio. 

Is it the actual barrel that's worn or is it the key ? Have you tried a spare key ?

[Rusty Nuts]

It seems to be going right up to the maker's nameplate, vicar. But sounds and feels very harsh, very metallic, and simply refuses to turn in any direction most of the time. I sneaked up on it and tapped the barrel with a lump of ally bar to get the steering lock off, but it's really unhappy and I daren't ride it again till I get something sorted. Spare key yields identical results, or lack of.

[Barbel Mick]

Maybe it is just dry and the pins are sticking, hitting it may have released them so it operated?
Worth trying some lube? You can get the graphite powder in little bottles from most hardware stores or locksmiths (if any are open or you want to queue?)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-Tools-Kasp-K30050-Microfine-Graphite-Powder-Lubricant/163989507117?epid=8012053390&hash=item262e894c2d:g:QU0AAOSwzhpdrw0a
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambersil-15ml-Graphite-Lock-Bike-Padlock-Lubricant-Aerosol-Spray-33000/264569013422?epid=21011748120&hash=item3d998ac4ae:g:2DgAAOSwh1NbPywC

Even now, knowing the lock is good, I can have problems turning the key when the bike is on the side stand. I have to move the bars a little to 'free' it. 

[kwackboy]

 

Got be worth trying the cheaper options first.   

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks, I'll get some ordered. Until it arrives, how about the disassembly side of things?

[Barbel Mick]

Sorry Rusty can't help you with that but I'm sure there will be some form of security bolts to remove before the lock comes off!!
Anyway lets hope it's not necessary.

[kwackboy]

Replacing a whole key set if you are mechanically minded isn't that bad. It will involve removing the top yoke , unplugging the ignition and drilling the security bolt heads off.

The fuel cap is easy , 3 or 4 bolts and it's off , the seat lock however can sometimes be a pain depending where it's situated, the locks are generally buried behind lots of panels with a cable attached and they also have security screws/bolts

For your info some People just replace the ignition and suffer two different keys to save the cost.

The hardest part is reprogramming a new key if your bike has a key immobiliser.
I've used some decent locksmiths who have managed to reprogram the chip in the key or you can use a dealership but some won't entertain the idea just incase your are fitting keys to a stolen bike . 

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks all. Looks like I've found a job for next week. I'm off, should have been doing B&B at the Golden Lion in Settle.       Ah, well,  instead.

[Barbel Mick]

kwackboy just made me wonder...is the key OK in the seat and fuel cap locks?

[Rusty Nuts]

Yes, both the others are fine.

[Barbel Mick]

 

[Mr Nick]

The ignition barrel on the SV I had was playing up when I got it & refusing to turn and the knack with it was to put a bit of pressure forwards on it and it turned more often than not.

[UK_Vstrom650]

If you are stuck and need it freeing (to get to work etc or just to put it away), just use WD40. It will free the lock so you can use it and will drain out the bottom of the barrel. You can then switch to graphite based one later on when you get some if you want. (WD40 won't kill your barrel)
If I had the choice between WD40 or £400 replacement I know which one I'd be doing...
#yorkshirebattlecry

[user650]

I use dry lube in the barrels of locks on most things and it works a treat, worth a try. 

[The Big Dog]

If you haven’t got graphite powder try running a pencil over the key trying to get as much pencil lead (primarily graphite) on the key

[Mep]

I've got some graphite powder and have used it successfully on a few troublesome ignition barrels. Worth having.

[Rusty Nuts]

Arriving Thursday. Amazon Prime. But I also need to see what's going on inside, and to give it a good clean out. Done the pencil thing, also whittled pencil lead and dropped the dust into the lock.