Author Topic: Bigpie’s Fuse Box (Read 2474 times)

Ticker · « **on:** April 19, 2020, 18:14:03 »

Hello all,

So I received a fuse box from Bigpie earlier this week and had a tinker today to pass some time. I’ve come up against a stumbling block and wondered if someone could shed some light, if at all possible?

I’ve installed the fuse box as per the instructions. However, I can only get power running through the fuse box when one of the brakes are compressed and the brake light comes on.

Thanks in advance.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #1 on:** April 19, 2020, 18:22:22 »

Sounds like you have tapped into the wrong side of the brake light circuit. One side is (probably) a permanent live and the other is a switched live.

kwackboy · « **Reply #2 on:** April 19, 2020, 18:22:54 »

I'm pretty sure you have connected the live feed of the fuse box to the negative on the brake circuit.
This is why it only works when you operate the brake .

Ticker · « **Reply #3 on:** April 19, 2020, 18:37:13 »

Thanks for your comments - The connectors that come with the fuse box can only be fitted one way (ones male, the other female). The wire that is spliced, from this connection and feeds back to the fuse box, should be coming from the orange wire, correct? (This is the permanent live?). However, on mine it’s coming from the white/black wire (switch live?)

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #4 on:** April 19, 2020, 18:54:00 »

Mine does look as though it's coming from the orange side of the connection, but without lifting the tank a little I can't really be 100%.
Take a photo of it and PM it to Bigpie, he'll sort it.

Ticker · « **Reply #5 on:** April 19, 2020, 18:59:11 »

Thanks Mick

I’ve just looked up it up, the orange wire is the ‘hot wire’ - the auxiliary wire going back to the loom is definitely coming from the white/black side of the connection, hence the problem. I’ll message Bigpie.

mr_diver · « **Reply #6 on:** April 19, 2020, 19:03:03 »

White and black will be negative in the tail lights.

There is no permanent live in the rear end only a switched live.

You need to tap into the orange wire. That feeds a common positive that feeds both the rear position light, brake lights and number plate light.

Ticker · « **Reply #7 on:** April 19, 2020, 19:10:01 »

Thanks MrDiver

Exactly that, the wire going to the aux fuse box should be on the orange side of the connection. As it’s pre connected, there’s no other way around it without me cutting the wires and reconnecting them.

I’ve messaged Bigpie, I’m sure he’ll come back to me shortly. It’s all good, and it’s occupied me for a while

Brockett · « **Reply #8 on:** April 19, 2020, 19:22:19 »

I thought it went to the connector just under the seat end of the tank.

Ticker · « **Reply #9 on:** April 19, 2020, 19:24:00 »

That’s exactly where it’s fitted Brockett

mr_diver · « **Reply #10 on:** April 19, 2020, 20:32:57 »

Normally you can use a tiny screwdriver to press in the little tang that holds the pin into the connector.
Swap them around.
Bob's your mother's brother.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #11 on:** April 19, 2020, 20:45:42 »

I'm guessing the relay trigger wire shares a crimp in that connector and can't be separated, so to avoid cross-wiring wouldn't you have to swap both ends of both cables in the plug and socket supplied?

Ticker · « **Reply #12 on:** April 19, 2020, 21:01:57 »

Thanks MrDiver I did try this earlier, but they didn’t want to budge at all.

@Rustynut you are correct, the wire that goes back to the relay in the fusebox shares a crimp with one of the wires in said connector. However, I’m pretty sure it’s in the wrong one. It should be connected to the other wire of the two - effectively splicing from the live feed.

It’s one of those things, it’s not a biggie - I’ve messaged Bigpie and am sure he’ll come back to me soon enough.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #13 on:** April 19, 2020, 21:07:13 »

Nah, he's self-isolating in the sunny Seychelles while his army of third-world toddlers assemble his units in underground sweatshops.

tallpaul · « **Reply #14 on:** April 19, 2020, 21:45:42 »

It is just a case of swapping the terminals in the connectors to tap into the correct feed. If you don't have the correct tool for dismantling the 2.8mm connectors you can use a fine flat blade screwdriver. It takes seconds. Shame you're not local, I would have fixed it in a jiffy for you. Here are some pics if it will help you when dismantling the connectors. The tags on the terminals (arrowed red) are what you are pressing down to allow the terminal to slide out of the back of the housing. Make sure you lift it back up again before you reinsert it.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #15 on:** April 19, 2020, 21:58:34 »

I was looking for video or pictures just like that, Paul. Did you find them or make them?
(and Wilko, Lidl and Aldi sell those screwdrivers fairly regularly)

tallpaul · « **Reply #16 on:** April 19, 2020, 22:03:37 »

I just popped into the garage for my box of electrical bits and took some photos. I always have a stash of these terminals because they are so useful.

Ticker · « **Reply #17 on:** April 19, 2020, 22:14:06 »

Thanks Taulpaul, I appreciate your time and advice. I’ll have another crack at it tomorrow when it’s light. If I get them out, I don’t have the proper crimping tool to re-crimp it, I’ll have to try with some pliers, I guess.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #18 on:** April 19, 2020, 22:17:26 »

No need to de crimp or re crimp, just lift the locking tabs and pop 'em back in - on the correct side.

tallpaul · « **Reply #19 on:** April 19, 2020, 22:22:43 »

No problem, happy to help. You won't need to uncrimp anything. Just remove the terminals from the housing and swap them over. This must be done on the connectors fitted to the fuse box and at each end. One wire is just a pass through, the other wire has a take off to switch the fuse box. You are just switching over the wire with the take off to the correct live terminal.