Alternator output on 2012 650?

[Sage]

BM, nice one, have you tried the heated kit yet ?

[Barbel Mick]

Not bought it yet Sage (it's going to be summer before I get round to it  ).
Needed to get the voltmeter on first, now I'll see if I can run a few tests , connecting something to the electrics (headlight bulb(s) might be easiest) to draw a shit load of current & see what readings I get on the voltmeter. 

[Barbel Mick]

Had a play today and got some meter readings off the battery at various stages of charging.
Battery has been fully charged. All readings taken on battery terminals with a multimeter.
1. Just a voltmeter on the battery, bike not running……..12.97v
2. Ignition on, bike not running (h’lights, LED spotlights, Sat Nav on) ……..11.06v
3. Bike running at tick over ………..14.06v
4. Bike running at 4k rpm……..14.24v
5. Bike running at 4k rpm with heated grips on at 50%........14.0v
6. Bike running at 4k rpm with heated grips at 50% + 100watts (2 x halogen spots to simulate heated jackets)…….12.8v
7. As 6 but with one headlight off (- 55watts)…….13.8v
With the heated grips on the voltmeter was fluctuating +/- 0.4 approx. so took an average reading.
Quite happy with those readings and, I think, at a push (with the voltage reading from 6) I could run two heated jackets (doubt I would have them on full setting according to reports, so on a lower setting they wouldn’t draw 50watts each?) plus the few times I’ve used the grips over this winter I’ve had them on the lowest setting. Obviously switching one headlight off will help.
I have made a switch to connect into the left hand, low beam circuit to switch it off if necessary.
At the moment I haven’t changed any bulbs for LED’s. The side lights would be a good choice (if I can figure out how to do them without removing the plastic) but I would rather not change the headlight bulbs. I’ll use the switch if necessary.

All that leads to my question, will it damage the stator to be pushing out that much current for long periods of time, or is that what it should be doing & not dumping it to the regulator/rectifier?   

[kwackboy]

As long as the stator is within its limits I see no reason why it couldn't handle your requirements and saving power to use it elsewhere is fine.

However, Power saving, like changing to LEDs etc can stress a charging system that's designed to put out a given amount of power,
I'm pretty sure the regulator is limited to the amount it can shunt back to ground and I believe this can overheat the stator.     

[jabmotorsport]

if I can figure out how to do them without removing the plastic

I put LED spots in mine when I had it. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to do it without removing the whole plastic around the dash. IIRC though someone on here managed it, but I can't remember any details, sorry. 

[hotbulb]

I've thought about it, too, but my shovel-like hands can't get anywhere near. I suppose it might be possible without removing the plastics if you employ a small child... like the Victorian chimney-sweeps

[endintears]

Technical Article: How a Motorcycle Charging System Works - ElectroSpo – ElectroSport
https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources-how-motorcycle-charging-system-works
Hi Mick
More information than you probably want or need so just stop when it gets boring.

Reading the article think you've got it right anyway in that the power is there regardless, it being used for something usefull or the excess regulated by being dumped to earth.

[Ianmc]

Mick, the alternator runs at full power no matter what the load is, its not like a car or BMW bike that has an alternator that is excited through slip rings and can vary the stator output via a separate  regulator.So whatever the load on the system the rec./reg.gets rid of the surplus through heat.That’s why the rec./reg. gets hot and lots of bikes have problems when they fit LED stuff.Its too much for it.When I had a Honda PC 800 in a previous life I bolted a copper plate behind the rec./reg. to dissipate the heat as it was behind the fairing and used to get untouchable hot.

[Barbel Mick]

Thanks for the replies gents.
My understanding from those replies is run as many auxiliary items I want on the bike, the stator won't mind, so long as it still produces enough voltage to charge the battery?? 
Am I correct in thinking that 12.8 volts at the battery, with everything connected, might not be enough to keep it charged and therefore I should put the on/off switch into the near side low beam to get the input up to 13.8 volts or thereabouts? 

[kwackboy]

Correct ...  .

Just a thought, maybe try to incorporate the light switch in the heated jacket circuit so when you turn off the low beam your heated jackets power up.
This would be a fail-safe so you don't flatten your battery... Oh .. make sure it's a high wattage switch or it'll burn out .. 

[UK_Vstrom650]

You can swap the side lights to LEDs from underneath the front cowling. It is a pain to do but achievable. That said, the LEDs never lasted that long on mine so I ditched them in the end.

[Barbel Mick]

Got a bit of stuff from the local motor factors the other day, the switch I got was rated at 15amps..... the bulb at 55watts draws 4.6amps so should be OK??

Probably a good idea about incorporating the two somehow kwackboy but maybe a bit too much faffing (and as you are fully aware I wouldn't have that sort of time on my hands!!. 

Cheers UK_Vstrom650 I'll have another look. That might be just enough power saving for my requirements......but wouldn't want to be changing them regularly!

[endintears]

Honestly don't think you will be using a much power as you think.
I have a keis X10 heated vest, its only rated about 18watts and I normally only need to have it set on medium or low.

[Barbel Mick]

That's what I'm hoping Neil but better to be safe than sorry.
Don't want to be spending my hard earned pension on the jackets to find I can't use them! 

[UK_Vstrom650]

I think you'll be right. The most I have mine on is medium and that's mainly for windblast on the motorway. I imagine the pillion would probably only need low. If you do find it's drawing too much, you could wear a base layer under your t-shirt on really cold days so you wouldn't need it on as high.

[Barbel Mick]

I imagine the pillion would probably only need low.

Have you met Deb?     She's got thermals on in the middle of summer!!! 

[endintears]

As this thread progresses can't help getting reminded of the scenes in the film Apollo 13 where they're trying to work out the power up sequence 

[sjrainsford]

In answer to your previous question Mick, that's correct.  They will only use full power when set to full power.  So in reality you're unlikely to both be using them on full power at the same time, if at all.  So yes, they will use less power in reality.

[Barbel Mick]

Finally got around to finishing this 'project'. 
Reminder.........
I wanted to run two Keis J501 heated jackets on my 2013 650. I have just put heated grips on it, run LED spots all the time, Sat Nav & a chain oiler.
First thing I did was to fit a voltmeter.
To test the voltage output with the equivalent of the heated jackets connected I switched on the two Givi spots I have on it (halogen bulbs @50 watts each) & the heated grips at 50% and was getting around 13 volts at the battery with a multimeter (the newly installed voltmeter read 0.2v less), probably not enough to keep the battery topped up?
To find the extra voltage I put a switch into the nearside dipped beam in order to switch it off when required. Today I managed to change the side lights to LED ( I'll put another post up for that) to save me 10 watts.
All back together and now I have 13.8 volts with everything running (50 watt spots for the jackets) @ 3000k rpm. If I switch off the n/s low beam I get 14.2 volts. @ 3000k rpm Not all exactly the same voltages I was getting last week but I'm happy to give it a go at that.
As was mentioned by some of you earlier in the thread, I doubt we will be running the jackets at full power & up to now I've only been using the heated grips on low so I think all will be well!! 
   

[UK_Vstrom650]