Author Topic: Alternator output on 2012 650? (Read 7895 times)

Steady Freddy · « **Reply #40 on:** January 27, 2020, 21:44:38 »

Check out Makita tool catalogue.....heated fillet with self contained batteries.....

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #41 on:** January 27, 2020, 21:50:01 »

No sleeves. If you wear a heated jacket/vest apparently you don't need more than a base layer under it meaning your arms would get even colder.
Thanks anyway.

Sage · « **Reply #42 on:** January 27, 2020, 22:47:42 »

+1 on the poor accuracy of the volt meters, but but do a check across the battery once one is fitted to get a reference. I know mine about 0.6 low...think the voltage drop is due to the wiring etc

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #43 on:** January 29, 2020, 14:42:30 »

Here's the reply from Keis about the pwer draw on the J501 heated jacket.
A bit of help for me and maybe of some help to others?

Hi Mick
Thank you for your email. Please find below the answers to your questions:

1.   The jackets draw slightly different depending on size but the figures on our site are correct for the bigger sizes. 5.5 amps & 66 watts
2.   The way that the controllers work is that they do not cut the draw down in uniformed sections (as you go down the heat settings). The controller works in fluctuating manor meaning on full you would be drawing the highest figure but on medium the jacket may fluctuate between 5.5 and 4 amps.
3.   With regard to the battery the largest one would run on full power for just under an hour. We only normally give specifications on full power (due to the way the controller works) but you would be looking at around 1.5 hours.

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #44 on:** January 29, 2020, 19:09:48 »

Which is consistent with my voltmeter fluctuating up and down when in use. Incidentally, when one of my headlights blew on the way home from Portishead I think to it stayed towards 14v with the jacket on medium, so could be worth a headlight cut-out switch.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #45 on:** February 07, 2020, 15:16:54 »

Further to my little problem of power output on the 'bike I have now had a voltmeter delivered. I think I will drill one of the vertical parts of the fairing panel at the side of the display & fit it there.
To the left I have the heated grips connector and on the right (tight up under the fairing, taped to the headlight feed I have found another connector. It has a blank plug on it. Is this a spare switched 12v output that I could use for my voltmeter?
Both these connectors appear to be different shapes (photos provided) and not sure what to buy to fit to them.
I found that a 2P090-HM connector is correct for the heated grips so I ordered one of those from e-bay but it don't fit!!

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #46 on:** February 07, 2020, 17:26:42 »

The smaller one is for the OEM cigarette type socket. If you were to use that one I suppose you could cut the connector off and add bullet or spade connectors which would still allow you to remove the dash.

Mine is mounted on the left side, with a wire ran straight from the battery to it.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #47 on:** February 07, 2020, 17:40:40 »

Thanks for that information, maybe there's an OEM socket available?
Had thought about cutting the existing connector off but because of where it's situated it would mean taking the panels off to get access to cut and reconnect, don't really want to do that (lazy bugger

).
Running straight from the battery is the best option but I've already got a few connections on the battery terminals and want to avoid messing with all that if I can.
In all truth I'm looking for the easiest option!!

bigpie · « **Reply #48 on:** February 07, 2020, 20:57:22 »

Easiest option. Strip the ends of the wires, bung em in the connector and tape up. Or connect to my fusebox if you have one. Mines connected to headlights :D

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2020, 21:30:29 »

got your fuse box but all outputs used (one output used for 2 'extras', waiting for you to make a 6 way one Jamie!!

)
If I could get a male connection for that 'spare' output I'd be onto a winner as it's inches away from where I could fit the voltmeter.
I think this is the plug..........anyone know if it's available as an item & where to get it?

bigpie · « **Reply #50 on:** February 07, 2020, 21:43:53 »

You can double up for lower power devices. Doesn't have to be one accessory per output.

If there was demand, I could make larger fuseboxes. The PCBs are made in China though and I've already scared the postman with a package with customs declarations on. I think he's in quarantine now.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #51 on:** February 07, 2020, 21:51:23 »

Thanks Jamie, yeah, I didn't think I had a problem putting 2 low powered accessories on one output & I presume a voltmeter would be fine but I'm just trying to save a bit more cable running under the tank.
I'm thinking it might not be ideal, because the reading might not be spot on, but if I could get that plug, 6"/9" of cable would do the job & I could just plug it in without stripping plastic off!

bigpie · « **Reply #52 on:** February 08, 2020, 09:13:59 »

The reading will be off anyway :D

That connector in 1.Heated grips connector.JPG looks like it might be a SMHM-2P090K https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Way-Sumitomo-HM-Series-2-3mm-090-Natural-Male/174150358962?epid=1383377808&hash=item288c2b97b2:g:Wy4AAOSw5oZeFxMU

The connector in 2.Blanking plug from right side connector.JPG looks like it might be a Sumitomo MT series.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #53 on:** February 08, 2020, 14:48:37 »

Thanks again Jamie.

When you say "the reading will be off anyway", is that because the auxiliary voltmeter I have won't be accurate, or that if I connect it to that auxiliary output I won't get a reading that I might get direct from the battery? I suppose either way so long as I know by how much I should be OK.

I'm going to order one of these in the hope it's the correct type........
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sumitomo-MT-2-Way-Bottom-Rib-Plug-Socket-Connector-Set-With-Pins-Seals-Yamaha/352920061078?hash=item522bacc496:g:buwAAOSwCFxeEHJz

bigpie · « **Reply #54 on:** February 08, 2020, 16:31:58 »

They arnt accurate, but then it doesn't really need to be. Mines .4 out.

kwackboy · « **Reply #55 on:** February 09, 2020, 16:21:05 »

Reading this thread has inspired me so, seeing as I was stuck in all day because of storm I decided to sneak in the man cave and fit my volt reader with built in usb charger.
Need to paint the homemade mount at a later date though ..

endintears · « **Reply #56 on:** February 09, 2020, 17:16:11 »

Think the voltmeter is definitely the way to go [should do it myself]
In addition as an extra "safety net" what about running some of the loads through something like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC12V-Battery-Low-Voltage-Automatic-Cut-off-Controller-Protection-Switch-Modu-TD/303389342403?hash=item46a369fac3:g:K88AAOSwle1dX0LM

Sage · « **Reply #57 on:** February 10, 2020, 12:43:09 »

A simple way to check the accuracy is to first connect the new voltmeter across the battery and start the bike, then connect it where you intend to fit it. There will be a small voltage drop due to wiring losses.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #58 on:** February 13, 2020, 18:41:24 »

The last of the pieces (well the correct ones anyway) I ordered to fit the voltmeter arrived yesterday. Today I fitted it.
As you are aware from the above posts I wanted to use the aux output socket under the right hand panel but until Bigpie (thank you) helped out I was stuck as to what plug was required to connect to it. For your information it is a Sumitomo MT090-2B
I wired the voltmeter up, tested it direct to the battery to see what reading I got there, then plugged it in to the aux socket to make sure 1. it worked! 2. to check the reading.
The reading was the the same at the aux socket as it was at the battery!!!! Excellent, no loss.
The voltmeter itself read 0.2v lower than a multimeter at the battery, nothing to concern me.

Then came the nervy bit, cutting the panel. I checked behind for clearance, marked the spot & cut a hole.......it was a little on the small side so took a bit of filing & sandpaper to get it just right.
The spot I wanted to put it was very difficult to get into with my fat hands so required me to loosen the panel a little, just enough for a pair of long nosed pliers & a screwdriver to fit the plastic nut onto the meter & tighten it up. Not easy but managed it without having to remove the whole panel.
Two things to note the voltmeter in the second photo is not the one I used, I went for one with 2 X USB sockets built in. Second the battery voltage shown when engine not running is low, but I did have the ignition on for long periods when messing about....the battery is now on an overnight charge.

Some photos...............

kwackboy · « **Reply #59 on:** February 13, 2020, 19:15:41 »

Nicely done ..