Author Topic: Alternator output on 2012 650? (Read 7896 times)

Sage · « **Reply #20 on:** January 26, 2020, 12:00:21 »

Just re read my post and I meant to say maybe change one or both headlight bulbs to LED's, thus saving some power.

kwackboy · « **Reply #21 on:** January 26, 2020, 12:32:20 »

Led bulbs don't work correctly giving off the wrong beam in headlights that are designed for normal bulbs also, would fail your next MOT.

Sage · « **Reply #22 on:** January 26, 2020, 17:12:55 »

I've found that some do not work and some do, but they have been gradually getting better. It also seems to depend on the headlight shape too, I've put an H4 led in a old Fireblade and it was not great but the same bulb worked on old Honda VF1000 and it is great...even the mot man was happy. Have not tried on the the Wee though.

kwackboy · « **Reply #23 on:** January 26, 2020, 17:23:24 »

You got lucky ...

Sage · « **Reply #24 on:** January 26, 2020, 19:44:41 »

This thread on ADv gives a bit of background

https://advrider.com/f/threads/how-to-modify-h4-led-to-reduce-glare-this-is-the-one-you-want.1080510/

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #25 on:** January 26, 2020, 21:26:33 »

Cheers Sage, I'll have a look but I'm with kwackboy, not sure it's the best way.
Or.........I could put LED's in for winter (when using the jackets) & put the 'proper'bulbs back for MOT & summer.....trouble is the MOT is due in February!!

Thanks for all the replies, has given me some help & ideas, more will be welcome especially if someone has actually managed it.

Brockett · « **Reply #26 on:** January 26, 2020, 23:35:21 »

Have you already bought the heated jackets.
I have the Keis jacket and I have to take the lining out of my textile jacket or I can't get it all on. Even so it is a bit of a tight fit. If your existing jacket is a snug fit I would suggest that you try before you buy. For me... I like the heated jacket and will make sure I wear it when shopping for the next outer jacket I buy.

bosnjo · « **Reply #27 on:** January 27, 2020, 08:48:55 »

I can confirm that it's possible to have LED in headlights with correct pattern. I went through quite a few of them and found a correct model of zDatt. It's my 2nd V-Strom I use these LED's and I'm more then happy.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #28 on:** January 27, 2020, 09:50:04 »

@ Brocket, no not bought them yet, waiting to sort the power requirements out first.
My textile jacket is a 'snug' fit during the winter rides (it's obviously shrunk over the last couple of years) due to the layers I wear under it to keep warm!
All the reports on the Keis jacket say it's good on the lowest setting with just a base undershirt & the liner in the jacket isn't required. So my outer jacket could last another couple of years before a larger ones needs to be bought.

When I have it all sorted & ready to buy we will have a run over to the Sportsbikeshop to try everything for size.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #29 on:** January 27, 2020, 14:31:53 »

Make sure to calculate breakfast room at the fitting stage.

Brockett · « **Reply #30 on:** January 27, 2020, 14:33:51 »

Mick -

good plan ... my keis jacket works well as an extra layer in place of the outer jacket liner. Lowest setting is OK to 2 degrees and then brief periods of medium to top it up. I also have the inner heated glove but have not used them yet as it's too weathery for me.

They may use less power than heated grips, most of hot grip heat bleeds away as we ride. Maybe you can look into heated inners from Keis that plug into the jacket or gloves from "Gerbing". The Gerbing gloves are self contained and can be temperature controlled whereas the Keis inner gloves share power from the main controller. I cannot yet say if the jacket and inner gloves are well matched or if there is a temperature difference causing hot body cold hands or vice versa. If heated gloves / keis heated glove liners use less power than heated grips then you may well have enough amps for two jackets and two pairs of gloves. Your pillion my be OK with jacket on lowest setting as you will "be the windbreak". ( all this amps usage discussion reminds me of "Apollo 13". )

bigpie · « **Reply #31 on:** January 27, 2020, 14:44:33 »

My blood boils with my keis vest on medium or high.
Fit a volt meter. As long as it is ~13.5-14v you'll not be flattening the battery.

Sage · « **Reply #32 on:** January 27, 2020, 15:32:28 »

Barbel Mick, have you fitted led side lights already, you can gain almost 10w just from these.
Swapping the bulbs is a trick I used to do on the old Fireblade in the winter as it used to struggle with heated grips and clothing etc. Just changing one bulb was enough, but had to adjust the headlight aim down a bit to reduce glare to oncoming traffic, it also looked a bit odd so was more noticeable I think.
I also ran the Blade with a lithium battery for a while and this seemed to cope much better with the heated kit....the volt meter was always higher, not sure why but it worked. Maybe some on here would know why.
My heated jacket is by Biketek, no longer made, with a Gerbing controller and normally just use setting 1 of 5.
It's a good idea to always put the battery on charge the night before so its in tip top condition for the ride.

Would be interesting to hear what you end up with.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #33 on:** January 27, 2020, 15:42:51 »

Quote from: Rusty Nuts on January 27, 2020, 14:31:53

Make sure to calculate breakfast room at the fitting stage.

First thing on the list of requirements Rusty.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #34 on:** January 27, 2020, 15:54:31 »

@ Bigpie, yeah, I'll fit a voltmeter anyway, then I'll do what I can on the existing system to reduce the current draw first. Then I'll do as suggested above, connect a couple of 55 watt bulbs into the system on a temporary basis & see what reading I get. I'm not going to buy the jackets unless I can get a suitable voltage reading.

@ Sage, got the bulbs but not fitted yet. Also I like the battery idea, mine is 7 years old now, still seems OK, but could be near the end of it's life? Will think about the lithium battery.

bigpie · « **Reply #35 on:** January 27, 2020, 17:12:06 »

I've seen some people switch off one of the headlights when they require additional power.

My Keis vest is around 15w (apparently), same again for my insoles, and 20w for the gloves.

You get about ~100-120w spare from memory.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #36 on:** January 27, 2020, 18:34:59 »

Quote from: kwackboy on January 26, 2020, 10:23:17

Anyways, back on subject, remember, if you are adding a volt reader, they are never 100% accurate, always try to use a brake light circuit.

kwackboy, Why the brake light circuit? Before I read that I was thinking of using the 'spare' connector behind the radiator (for heated grips) or I think there may be a 'spare' connector underneath/behind the right hand fairing? Could I use one of those, if I could it would save putting another wire under the tank.

kwackboy · « **Reply #37 on:** January 27, 2020, 19:47:46 »

It depends what the spare connector is designed to power...?
When ever I've added accessories like heated grips/jackets etc the brake light circuit always gives out good constant power and it's also a good indication as to what's happening regarding charge rates and tests tend to be not far off from what's happening at the battery terminals.

Volt readers are never 100% accurate but will give you a decent insight as to what's happening at the battery so it's always best connected to a good constant power source.

I'd test your spare connections to see what power it's putting out but if it's there for heated grips it's bound be be a good connection.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #38 on:** January 27, 2020, 19:51:16 »

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #39 on:** January 27, 2020, 20:13:04 »

This thread has just inspired me to charge my battery which I haven't done in ages having given my trusty Optimate 4 to my brother a few months ago (I ended up buying a CTEK to charge the wife's car). Four hours later and the battery is fully charged having run the 'recond' mode, all set for a toasty run to Sheffield on Wednesday