Author Topic: Alternator output on 2012 650? (Read 7894 times)

Barbel Mick · « **on:** January 25, 2020, 18:44:38 »

I think I am correct in saying the maximum output of the 650 alternator is 400watts? But what is the spare output when all the 'normal' running devices are taken into consideration?
I am thinking of getting some heated vests (x 2) but not sure the 'bike will have enough spare power to run them.
Other than the 'bikes normal stuff, lights, fuel pump etc. I have heated grips @ 48 watts, a Sat Nav, don't know what that draws but not much I imagine plus some LED spots, presume around 5-10 watts?
The heated vests are rated @ 7amps = 84 watts(X 2 = 168 watts).
Can I run two vests or has Deb got to stay cold?

Thanks for any advice.

sillyboy · « **Reply #1 on:** January 25, 2020, 18:56:11 »

my heated vest is rated at 2 amps and is plenty hot enough. it is an exo.

bsaboy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 25, 2020, 18:59:49 »

I run all the normal stuff plus heated vest,Oxford grips and Sat Nav with no problems.

Dark-Strom · « **Reply #3 on:** January 25, 2020, 19:13:12 »

Hi Mick,
a good guide might be fuse sizes for the different areas on the bike?
Otherwise a split charger & spare battery on the top box?

Similar to yourself a very rough list / what I can think of:~

1) 2 x Ignition coils
2) Injection system / throttle bodies
3) Fuel Pump
4) Instrumentation
5) 2 x dipped beams (50w each?) 100W
6) 2 x indicators (21w each?) 42W
7) Rear Tail & Brake lights (5 / 21w?) 26W
8) Horn
9) Heated grips 48W
10) Heated vests 168W
11) Sat Nav (Should say on the back of the unit?)

Good luck, be interested to know what you find

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #4 on:** January 25, 2020, 19:14:10 »

Thanks gents.
I am sure the 'bike is OK to run just one heated vest along with the 'other extras' but it's the second vest I think I'll have a problem with?

Just had another search on here (missed it first look) and found a post by Greywolf, RIP, that says the 1st gen 650 had 100 - 125 watts to play with, I think the 2nd gen (Glee) will have 25 watts more making it 150 spare watts? Not enough in my mind to run two heated vests.
My only hope here, I think, is that all the reports say that the Keis heated jacket I'm looking at only needs to be run on low, would that make a difference? Or enough difference?

Dark-Strom · « **Reply #5 on:** January 25, 2020, 19:23:37 »

Well found,
I guess the only question would be if a vest draws the same current (heater element rating) irrespective of heat setting, I.e. it just runs for longer to achieve a higher temperature?

SimStrom · « **Reply #6 on:** January 25, 2020, 19:23:59 »

I've no idea on the output of the 650's alternator sorry?.. I do however run Gerbing Gloves, jacket liner and socks all set at medium heat for riding in temperatures down to minus 3. When I put the Oxford grips on at medium heat as well, things work fine. When the wife comes along and has her heated gloves (only) set at maximum, the Oxford heated grips controller flashes like the bikes battery isn't getting enough charge and switch off?.

+ Sat Nav as well sorrt.

Dark-Strom · « **Reply #7 on:** January 25, 2020, 19:31:17 »

Sorry Mick,
had a nose on the bay and there seem to be lower powered heated seat options - could this work as an alternative
for you both?
There is even one heated seat pad that's powered by a power-bank!

Ianmc · « **Reply #8 on:** January 25, 2020, 20:04:11 »

Not sure where you got the 7 amps from Mick, I just had a look at Gerbings website and the”Premium Vest”only pulls 18watts,about 1.5amps.In actual fact when the alternator is at 14.5 volts its pulling less.VxA =W. So approx.1.25 amps at 14.5 volts.So do a load test on the bike.Run a 55w headlight bulb straight onto the battery with every thing else switched on and see what the voltage is.If its still making about 13.8 volts its coping OK.

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2020, 21:46:45 »

I run 2 LED spotlights, heated grips, Satnav, Keis jacket, and sometimes Keis heated insoles on low. With all of the above on and the jacket on medium, my on-board voltmeter shows around 13.4, and on low 13.7. They do fluctuate though so on low it goes up to 14.1 then 13.7. I can run the jacket and grips on high and the volts can read as low as 13.1 at motorway speeds.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2020, 22:33:07 »

@ Dark-Strom cheers but I'm not sure the seat would work for us. It's not our backsides that get cold!!

Need something to warm the torso & arms, I've got the heated grips but also looking at the heated glove liners for Deb (another current draw, but less than heated gloves?).
Ian, I'm looking at the Keis J501 from The Sportsbike shop. It comes with a free controller at the moment & decent value I think. According to the Sportsbikeshop web site it's rated at 7 amps. (= 84 watts per vest).

Sage · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2020, 22:51:12 »

I have a 06 Wee and run led drl's, Sat Nav, heated grips, heated jacket, gloves and insoles with no issues even with them all on max. I have a volt meter on the dash to monitor things and have swapped the side lights to led's to save some power. Changing one or both headlight bulbs would give you more power too.

Whatever you do a volt meter would be a good idea imho and would think running just two heated jackets on low would work.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #12 on:** January 25, 2020, 23:02:54 »

Yes, thought about putting a switch on one of the headlights to save 55 watts. Don't do much riding in the dark anyway & even less in the winter!!

Also I will fit a volt meter, even if I don't get the vests as I've been meaning to fit one for a while now anyway.
Just need to figure it all out before I spend my hard earned!

kwackboy · « **Reply #13 on:** January 25, 2020, 23:11:38 »

Only switch off one of your headlights if your heated clothing/accessories are on, believe it or not the output of the stator needs to be used up otherwise you risk overheating and possible failure.

user650 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 26, 2020, 02:10:32 »

From their web site https://www.keisapparel.co.uk/product/j501/

Current Draw 5.5A. Typical Power 66W

MartinW · « **Reply #15 on:** January 26, 2020, 08:52:56 »

Next time you are on your way to a Breakfast tasting try using one of these.

Wireless and no current draw.

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #16 on:** January 26, 2020, 08:59:39 »

@ kwackboy, yeah that would be the plan with the headlights.
Having read through a few old threads here about similar problems I did read one where Greywolf mentioned about the stator overheating due to dumping unused power and he fitted a series r/r to help, but I don't think that will be a problem for me in my circumstances?

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #17 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:00:52 »

@ Martin, they serve breakfast all year round and they taste better in the winter!!

Barbel Mick · « **Reply #18 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:03:24 »

@user650 thanks, maybe that information will be accurate, I was going on this ...........
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/364845?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5NnS-_Og5wIVxOJ3Ch0c9wDaEAQYASABEgLbjPD_BwE

kwackboy · « **Reply #19 on:** January 26, 2020, 10:23:17 »

Personally I think you will be OK but first I'd run tests before you spend your "hard earned"

.

As mentioned already, you could rig something up and experiment with a meter at the battery and while the bike is running add and remove stuff to see the results.
Hmm .. this reminds me of a film .... Tom hanks , Apollo 13 where he's trying to save milliamps to get home ...

Anyways, back on subject, remember, if you are adding a volt reader, they are never 100% accurate, always try to use a brake light circuit