That 1st to 2nd Gear Clunk

[Himself]

I'm new to the V-Strom 1000 and I'm still learning its ways. There is a lot to like about the bike including the totally different riding style needed compared to the 4 cylinder 1000 I normally ride.

The one thing I'm struggling with though is the gear change 1st to 2nd. This is a noticeable clunk that I've seen others comment on.

A couple of hours in the garage this evening, checking the chain tension (the dealer had it way too tight) and ensuring the rear sprocket is aligned with the chain - it wasn't far out - have made a difference, but the clunk is still there.

Strange thing is, it is smooth until the engine warms up and then the cluck is most noticeable. The rest of the gearbox is OK, it is just the change 1st to 2nd. High revs, low revs, I can't seem to find either the sweet spot for the change or what needs adjusting. Any suggestions, or is the clunk normal?

Bike is a 2016  with 9k miles on it.

[Valves]

Normal - do you get the pause into neutral when going from first to second as well, when warmed up? I have to make a conscious effort to avoid it...

[Paz324]

It helps to apply pressure to the gear lever before pulling the clutch rather than the other way around when jumping from 1st to 2nd.

The gear change enhancer from Cymarc helps a lot, It doesn't completely remove the issue but I found it does smooth out the entire experience including the clunk after warmup.

[Downunder]

2nd gear clunk would be a more appropriate title.😊
 I used to have trouble changing 1-2 smoothly until I made a point of making the change quickly. Pressuring the gear lever slightly and pulling the clutch lever in quickly, and just enough to allow the change to occur. It becomes second nature after a short time. The gearbox probably loosens up a bit with putting on some miles too.

[mr_diver]

"They all do that sir"

Suzuki gearboxes are generally smooth, but 1-2 isn't what you'd expect when the rest  of the box just slips in.
Saying that, have a go changing 1st-2nd on my Vardero... a 6lb howitzer has less recoil than that lever.

I'm also not sure if the Cymarc enhancer is needed on the 14> Vee? The swing arm and rear wheel being  significantly altered. 

[IMP]

..... I made a point of making the change quickly. Pressuring the gear lever slightly and pulling the clutch lever in quickly, and just enough to allow the change to occur .....

This is also the solution that works, for me.

[Paz324]

I fitted the gear change enhancer to a 2018 model and can confirm an improvement in my experience, I assume the 14 to 16 models would also benefit..

[MartinW]

2nd gear clunk would be a more appropriate title.😊

Changed thread title to make it specific

[oslin]

Are you still getting this when you have the engine revs correct for the road speed ?

[Himself]

That is an interesting question - If I'm accelerating in 1st and I change to 2nd, I'm not following how the revs would be anything other than correct?

Even if I accelerate, change into 2nd and then keep the clutch in and freewheel to a stop - the almighty clunk is still there as I change

[oslin]

Mmmm perhaps a misunderstanding here, I am referring to the engine revs being correct for the next gear you are selecting, when mine are both correct I do not get any clunk in fact you can not feel the gear going in at all, but maybe that is not the problem with yours ? the only thing I can think of that would cause that is the clutch plate hanging causing drag on the gearbox that would cause a clunk and I have had that on other bikes in the past.

[Himself]

  I like the clutch idea. I was also considering what oil may be in the bike (it looks new) which is in the same area. Wrong oil, clutch not operating as it should, which also feels like it ties into the clunk getting worse when the bike warms up.

And so the (emotional) question of what oil to use has to be asked

Thanks for all the help by the way -- it is very much appreciated

Oil change or the spacer plate .... decisions, decisions

[Methusela]

Oslin I notice you have a 650. My experience so far with the new 650 is that the 1st to 2nd change is so much smoother than on my 1000. I never did really find a solution to it on that bike, and just lived with it.

[oslin]

Methusela, Yes I appreciate that but the same would apply, I can only wish you well in finding a solution to the problem, I have had 32 bikes to date and whenever I have had troubles like that it has 99.9% of the time turned out to be the clutch plates or the operating mechanism for the same.
Good Luck and keep us posted :-)

[porter]

It's just the way the 2014 on vstrom 1000's are. I've  tried different oils, the gear change spacer etc but 1st to 2nd is clunky. I find it I go slowly it helps, don't rush the old girl to much but it still catches me out a few times every ride. Just forget about it.

[Himself]

Progress ... not cured but heading in the right direction.

I normally run with the clutch lever capstan (lever cam) in position 3. When pulling the lever the microswitch operates about 1/4 inch from fully pulled in. If I move the capstan to position 1, the microswitch operates 1/2 from fully pulled in.

Whereas 1st to 2nd, with the capstan in position 1, is now better, it still isn't perfect. Next job has to be clutch adjustment at the weekend.

Are there any good explanations or videos anyone knows about?

[RoadWarrior1978]

Clutch adjustment, on a 1000? are you sure about that?

[Brockett]

On my SV650 I pull in the clutch lever and pause before selecting second gear, this reduces "crunch". For all the other gears I find changing up at over  4500 revs is better. Short shifting is always a bit "crunchy".

[Himself]

Clutch adjustment, on a 1000? are you sure about that?

I was and then I got "educated" 

I was expecting the pushrod to be adjustable - oooppps. However, it did result in me receiving a good schooling about oil and the suggestion that if the clunk is more pronounced when the engine warms up, try 10w50.

Every day is a school day.