Author Topic: bike running rough (Read 5705 times)

claw · « **on:** December 14, 2018, 22:16:11 »

Maybe some can help me with this one, Bike began losing power at certain times, and would get worse the longer it was ridden, misfiring, losing power, chuddering. When travelling at a constant speed the bike would lose power and begin to slow down and chudder, when I would increase the throttle after about a second the bike would take off, but would eventually revert back to the problems. Bike got a new throttle position sensor put in by main dealer, it has improved slightly but not fully. the computer shows no faults. They have said when the bike reaches a certain temperature the problem raises its ugly head. Other than that they can't figure out what could be causing it? Has anyone any similar experience? thanks

Fat Rat · « **Reply #1 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:27:57 »

It sounds like it could be fuel related, a blocked high pressure filter maybe.

claw · « **Reply #2 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:31:15 »

Thanks for the reply, I will pass that info on.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #3 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:35:28 »

Have a read here https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=28671.40

kwackboy · « **Reply #4 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:37:32 »

Hi ..
Temperature related running issues can be caused by several things such as coils, fuel pump or valve clearances. This is where I would start .

claw · « **Reply #5 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:41:44 »

Thanks, they have checked the coil and valve clearances, all was fine. the bill is mounting up but the problem persists.

kwackboy · « **Reply #6 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:43:39 »

Tell them to do a flow test on the pump . Should be around 1.2 litres every 30secs or so.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #7 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:46:29 »

I didn't get anywhere near that, maybe 500ml in 30 seconds.

kwackboy · « **Reply #8 on:** December 14, 2018, 22:56:41 »

Hmmm, pretty sure that's what I found out when I had fuel pump issue's on my Vee, maybe I have that wrong ? , But with that said my new pump reached over a litre in 30secs with a new pump and filter once fitted.

Hugo Magnus · « **Reply #9 on:** December 15, 2018, 07:31:55 »

claw, how long has this been going on? Could it be dodgy fuel? Have you tried high octane?

claw · « **Reply #10 on:** December 15, 2018, 09:01:40 »

Went on a trip around Scotland in late August and on the way home it got started. It started off intermittently maybe every hour or so it would lose power in high gear with a continuous chudder. Then it became continuous for the last couple of hours of the journey in all gears. I would have to keep dropping gears down and accelerate slowly up through the gears again, I was lucky to get home.

Since the problem the bike has only done around 50 miles and that was to the dealers and test runs. They have ruled out fuel as an issue for now. On the most recent test run at a constant 100kph after about 30 seconds the problem would start. it continues to misfire and pop as well sometimes. They say they're sure its temperature related.

I am without a bike now since the start of september

.its been to two shops and no one can find the issue

I will pass on all the suggestion's, thanks.

Silverback · « **Reply #11 on:** December 15, 2018, 10:03:40 »

Given the age of the bike I take it all the connectors to the sensors/injectors have been checked for corrosion and continuety?
Not sure if a faulty temp sensor would cause those symptoms but I would think the mechanic has tested all the airbox sensors.

Those intermittent faults are a nightmare to find and it's usually something simple causing it.

Ianmc · « **Reply #12 on:** December 15, 2018, 10:15:24 »

That has all of the symptoms of a blocked fuel tank breather,I reckon the temperature thing might be throwing you off,as it’s really a time thing,I.e.it takes the same time to create a vacuum in the tank as it does to get the engine up to temperature.Just a thought and it’s easy to check.

kwackboy · « **Reply #13 on:** December 15, 2018, 10:45:44 »

I checked the manual and found the flow rate and as suspected it's 1200 ml every 30secs for a DL1000. See pic.
You could also get the garage working on it to check the sieve, pressure regulator and fuel pump relay although I suspect it's the pump which is the only part that gets affected by heat.

Hugo Magnus · « **Reply #14 on:** December 15, 2018, 11:27:37 »

I had a faulty ignition coil on a Suzuki that gave similar symptoms. And also on a Hillman Minx, once it had cooled down it would run for a few miles then stop again. As the broken coil heated up the ends of the wires got further apart and couldn't maintain continuity.

claw · « **Reply #15 on:** December 15, 2018, 11:49:20 »

They are going to check the fuel pump today. Thanks for all the help. I hope its fucked

wurzel · « **Reply #16 on:** December 15, 2018, 14:06:00 »

I too think a coil could be involved in this.

Relevant11 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 15, 2018, 17:00:34 »

Agreed most of the similar tales of woe on various forums seem to include the coil at some point.
Would the defective coil mimic a fully functioning one if checked cold before thermal expansion occurs?

Ianmc · « **Reply #18 on:** December 15, 2018, 18:19:26 »

Mmm,back to basics,is the connector between loom and tank in good nick ?

claw · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2019, 18:41:52 »

Update.

I collected the bike from the dealers a few weeks ago as they could not figure out what was wrong with it, as they recommended I bring it somewhere else. Suspecting a fuel filter issue I decided to bypass the fuel filter temporarily, using the method in the picture to see if the main fuel filter was the problem. Took the bike for a spin (about 10 miles)and it ran great. I have now done the external filter bypass with the hole drilled in the proper location in the high pressure fuel filter and the bike is again running rough (back to square one).

Fuel flow test is good around 1200ml in 30 seconds. With the new external fuel filter in place I then reverted to my original bypass (as in the picture) and the bike runs great again. I also bought a new pump from Ebay and changed this but it seems the original was fine. Would it possibly be an O ring? the one on it looks to be perfect and it is a very tight fit putting it on.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.