DL1000 K8 Rear Coil problem

[bandit1200cc]

I started having low rev issues that got worse to the degree where it would only pull cleanly once I got over 5000 rpm. Not a problem when cold but 2-3 bars heat and it would die at tickover. Investigating I found no dealer mode errors but the rear cylinder was the culprit and after changing the rear coil and plug which didn't fix it I checked valve clearances on the rear. The inlets were 0.1 and 0.12 so although this was just in spec I reshimmed to 1.6 on both. On reassembly all was good and I had her ticking over for approx an hr to 3 heat bars during which time I synced the TB's. Took her out all smooth until 6 miles out when FI light came on - C25 and rode home on one cylinder, not firing at all on rear. Changed back to original coil and also got another to try including plug cap just in case. I have live to coil but no negative when running. No other errors only C25. Continuity between negative on coil and other end of wire at the ECM. Cleaned connector to ECM. I think it may be the ECM faulty but every so often there's a weird noise from the generator area. If the CKP was faulty though id get an error code and the front cylinder wouldn't run or is that wrong? Looking for any ideas before I try to find a replacement ECM. Or anyone willing to let me try theirs :O

Cheers

[Gassoon]

It's a puzzler, bandit.
What did the spark plug look like when you pulled it first?
Any backfiring?
Do you mean re-shimmed to 0.16?
any corrosion on the coils lowtension wire
Any spark at the plug now?
Tried swapping round the coils, just let em hang?

[bandit1200cc]

Sorry, I meant 0.16 on the inlets. The coil isn't firing at all, no spark on another plug grounded to the frame. So far I have tried a replacement coil with the original plug cap fitted, the original coil with its own lead / plug cap, and finally another replacement coil complete with its own lead and plug cap so I don't think its the coil. With the start switch off there is 12.5v on the negative coil connector on both coils which drops to circa 2v when start switch on (not running). As the front coil fires this must be correct? Both grounds checked okay at the ECM connector. Bike shop mechanic thinks there's a chance something is dragging coil 2 negative to earth when running as they have never seen a faulty ecm coil issue on later better water sealed bikes. I've seen an ECU available from an Aussie bike, will there be any KM issues or does it not drive the speedo?

[Gert]

Perhaps one these links may offer some ideas: https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,28985.0.html (one cylinder working only) &
https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7213.0.html (Rear cylinder not firing)

[bandit1200cc]

Update, it was the ECU, obtained a 2009 ecu and it fixed the problem. Then I found my rotor magnets (2 of) had fell off hence a noise I had heard in that area during working through the misfire problem. Saga continues :(

[Gassoon]

Bad luck there, bandit. Apparently if they aren't chewed up or owt, they can be glued on with JB Weld...

These bikes are known to develop problems with the magnets in the rotor slipping out of place. I will say there is about an 85% chance your magnets have moved. This causes the stator to go bad. I suspect that is why your charging system has failed. Stators are common failures, regulators are not.

Pull the magneto cover and look at your magnets in the rotor. Should be about 1/4" space between ALL of them. Any that are touching, or wider gaps means they have moved. You can buy a new rotor, or if magnets are not hurt you can do what is called the "JB Weld" fix. Look at your stator. Any of the poles that are significantly darker than others means a burnt area. Remove it from the cover and check the backside too. There is a test you can do before taking the bike apart. Locate the wiring coming out of the magneto and follow it to the connector. There will be 3 wires in there. With an ohmeter, place one lead on one of the wires and the other lead to a good ground. ANY movement of the needle or change in the digital reading means a failed stator. Do this with all three wires.

https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-tweaking-tuning-tricking/43261-magneto-magnet-repair-diy.html

[hector1000s]

I have just done my magnets on my rotor, (DL1000 k5) four of the magnets had slipped, I didn't have any noises just low chargw rate of about 12.5 volts.
I cleaned all remnants of original glue from the 4 loose magnets, I measured the 2 remaining magnets which were bonded OK and calculated the glue thickness was 0.1mm, Don't forget to rough up the inside of rotor with some rough wet/dry so JB keys to it!! so using the JB weld smeared thinly onto magnetsnand placed into rotor and then used M5 countersink machine screws to space/clamp magnets into place, although did not tighten them very much as didn't want to break the brittle magnets.
Left to cure for 24 hrs and refitted stator and started up and now have 13.7 volts, Ideal!
cheers colin

[wurzel]

Well done to you, unusual to have a dodgy ECM,but you sorted it.

[Gassoon]

   and good on you for telling us how it all ended, Colin. It'll happen to someone else, sometime, and this might be their lifeline!