Riding tips for gravel, mud and rough surfaces

[Tubby Graver]

Hi all. Had the V-Strom now for around a month and have put 2000 miles on the clock, mainly on roads around the Yorkshire Moors & Yorkshire Dales, loved every second of riding this wonderful machine

I have noticed however that the V-Strom is a little unstable on gravel. I’ve had a few skids, and dropped the bike on Saturday coming down a steep decline on a farm path which was mainly gravel and mud. The front wheel just wouldn’t stop ! I had traction control set to 2, was only moving extremely slowly and had the rear and front brakes on

Prior to the V-Strom, I was on a Kawasaki VN800 with Avon Cobra tyres. Apart from the crash that wrote the bike off, I never had a problem with gravel or slipping on slightly off road surfaces. The V-Strom however is meant to be built for adventures on all surfaces, but I’m finding it harder to control on rough paths then I did the cruiser, which is strictly built for tarmac !

Does anyone have any riding tips for off road surfaces on the V-Strom?

[Griff2]

What pressures were You running on the cruiser and what are currently on the Strom ?  Tyre pressures could be something to do with this and I am thinking that your cruiser would have fatter tyres with lower pressures.  Furthermore a muddy surface or mucky lanes will compromise most bikes to some degree, even those with more agressive tyres. To cope with that sort of riding you would need some training and/or an alternative bike.  For my trail riding I use a CRF250L and that is perfect.

 The one time that I took my Strom offroad on a rough but dry trail I noticed slight damage to the exhaust headers under the motor from flying stones from the front wheel. That was enough to keep me away from offroading on it as it wasn't purchased for that purpose.

[Tubby Graver]

Hi Griff, thanks for your comments

Just the recommended pressures for the tyres. The Avon Cobras were certainly fatter and wider whereas the V-Strom wheels are quite thin

I’m not really off roading, this was just an entrance to a campsite we were staying at on Saturday, so only 200 yds or so, but in general I have noticed the V-Strom is more unstable on the gravel. For instance, we regularly visit Fimber Cafe in East Yorkshire which has a gravel car (bike) park. The cruiser had no problems, whereas the V-Strom just doesn’t feel as confident and tends to slip and slide to a stop.

I think half of it was that the cruiser seating position put my legs much closer to the ground and was able to flat foot really easily when I needed to, whereas on the V-Strom I’m on tip toes on the ground so tend to have myfeet on the pegs when riding slowly

My IAM instructor rides a V-Strom and has offered to take me on some green lane training so I think that’s probably the best idea in the short term, just to get used to the gravel surfaces and what the bike can and cannot do

[King Orry]

While the Vstrom might look built for an Adventure, in reality it’s no more off-roader than most bikes.
Like anything, practice helps.
Even with ABS fitted, I rarely use the front brake in such circumstances (and do so very gently if necessary), I always keep my feet on the pegs, (far better for balance and you’re less likely to damage yourself) and do everything in slow-motion.
It’s no different to riding on frosty winter roads.. slow and steady.
Unless you’re going on an extended off-road ride there’s little point in adjusting tyre pressures, definitely not considering the little stretch you travelled.
I’d take up the offer from the IAM instructor, if nothing else it’ll be a bit of fun, but be aware you’ll be slipping and sliding far more than any ‘proper’ off-roader’. Plus, whether 650 or 1000, they’re a damn sight heavier to pick up if you do slip off. ????

[Mark Shelley]

As mentioned already, these bikes are not designed for proper off road use however you will find it much easier to ride on loose surfaces if you stand up on the pegs. When seated you feel all the squirming around that is going on. When standing you don’t get most of this. Obviously you should only use the back brake unless you are an off road Riding God.

[TLPower]

As KingOrry advised use the rear brake only but don't stamp on it. Standing up or putting your bodyweight into the pegs effectively lowers the 'bikes centre of gravity making it much more stable. The odd twitch is to be expected, let the wheels sort them out, they are round and like to roll over things. Try not to grip the bars or controls too hard.

Enjoy.

[Hugo Magnus]

They all do that sir

[SimonF]

Hi

Definately get some training if you want to do more off road, preferably not on your bike as you will drop it!

I did the two day Level One course at the BMW Off Road Skills centre in Wales. Two days of training and riding a GS1200 round the Brecon Beacons. Its the best two wheel experience I have ever had. So much so that I am booked to do their Brecon Beacons Adventure ride in September. 200 mile round trip, mainly off road, over two days. Again on their bikes!

Why their bikes? Well you will drop it - several times in my case. Also they have the correct tyes on.

Learning to ride standing up is a must. It increases your visibilty (no 1 reason) and gives you extra suspension. The bike moves under you and is a lot more forgiving on loose surfaces.

Interesting comments on here about using the back brake only. Now admittedly the BMW has linked brakes but we were taught to stay off the rear brake. Basically 'front for stopping; rear for steering'. On the downhill exercise they had us going down with no brakes or clutch - just using engine braking in first and running out round the corner at the bottom. Then we introduced front brake to control speed with clutch in. Then using cluth and front brake stop halfway down speak to the instructor and start again off again! (pic of hill attached)

There is a lot of fear surrounding the front brake but in a straight line its the one to use. Most of this fear comes from our cycling days where we are told we'll go over the bars if we touch it! If you have a push bike try this exercise that a MTB instructor showed us. Put the front brake on and push on the rear of the saddle. The bike shouldn't move. Then try the same with only the rear brake on and the bike will slide forward. Rear brake on any two wheeled vehicle is pretty useles for stopping!

Cheers

Simon

[Ridaz]

I would be willing to join you in some off road training if we can find a location 

[Loz]

Stand up, use the engine braking of the bike and not your front brake.
If you think the hill is to steep, turn off your ignition and have the bike in 1st or 2nd gear and come down the hill controlling the speed of the bike with your rear brake and clutch, you'll be suprised what you can get down doing this in a more controlled manner as the bike won't run away with you..

[Griff2]

Interesting comments on here about using the back brake only. Now admittedly the BMW has linked brakes but we were taught to stay off the rear brake. Basically 'front for stopping; rear for steering'. On the downhill exercise they had us going down with no brakes or clutch - just using engine braking in first and running out round the corner at the bottom. Then we introduced front brake to control speed with clutch in. Then using cluth and front brake stop halfway down speak to the instructor and start again off again! (pic of hill attached)

There is a lot of fear surrounding the front brake but in a straight line its the one to use. Most of this fear comes from our cycling days where we are told we'll go over the bars if we touch it! If you have a push bike try this exercise that a MTB instructor showed us. Put the front brake on and push on the rear of the saddle. The bike shouldn't move. Then try the same with only the rear brake on and the bike will slide forward. Rear brake on any two wheeled vehicle is pretty useles for stopping!

I tend to agree with this advice. On a steep downhill the rear brake is practically useless because all the weight of the bike has shifted on to the front wheel. If one is going to stop (depending on conditions and direction of travel) then the front wheel is your best chance at stopping.

[infidel]

Dependent on the angle of slope, loaded mass and friction available - there's a point for every bike when you're in old Issac's hand's regardless of how you are riding.

If stopped would the bike have remained so on that slope?

Did the ABS kick in when you couldn't stop at low speed?

[Tubby Graver]

Thanks for all the responses, interesting reading, I’ll be trying out some of these theories over the coming weeks and see what works best for me