Author Topic: Another addition to the stable (Read 10734 times)

TLPower · « **Reply #40 on:** July 29, 2018, 21:08:55 »

Mr Nick, you've just posted a picture of the contents of a 1200 GS final drive.

How thoughtful.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #41 on:** July 29, 2018, 21:14:49 »

Might steal that for my profile pic.....

mr_diver · « **Reply #42 on:** July 29, 2018, 22:14:37 »

Nah, can't be a GS final drive.
There's no remnants of drive splines, oil seals or bits of collapsed bearings.

Andy M · « **Reply #43 on:** July 30, 2018, 07:06:39 »

IIRC the airbox holes are some sort of jungle tune-up gobbledygook. I think you plan of getting a new one the starting the carb set up from scratch is best.

Andy

Mr Nick · « **Reply #44 on:** July 30, 2018, 17:32:38 »

I tend to agree Andy that it's an attempt at improving the intake - but the holes are on the wrong side of the filter and behind the heads. Who thought introducing hot dirty air was a tune up???

The good thing is that they were all closed off so carb changes should be minimal as she runs reasonably OK, but she'll be checked anyway.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #45 on:** July 31, 2018, 21:57:28 »

A couple of updates on the airbox front: Gutsibits say they're still available at a very reasonable price, so quick call to them tomorrow to order. However, looking at September as Italy is about to go on holiday...

Since I need the bike before then, I drew up plugs for the holes and rattled them off on the printer:

The holes were all slightly different sizes so I had to make a couple of versions.

All glued in and airbox is sealed again.

I do have black filament, but the smoke was already in the printer, the airbox itself isn't really black any more and it's temporary, so it'll do for now...

Mr Nick · « **Reply #46 on:** August 03, 2018, 21:36:54 »

I've been re-assembling the Guzzi this week and had to replace a few bits along the way: today's thing was the battery tray. The original one was, how shall I put this... a little brittle. It had been slowly shedding bits of itself every time I touched it and I accidentally leaned on it one night, with this being the result...

As you see, new one is here and duly fitted.

tallpaul · « **Reply #47 on:** August 03, 2018, 22:52:29 »

I like the 3D printed hole plugs. These printer wotchamacallits seem to have a multitude of uses.

love this thread. Keep it coming...

Mr Nick · « **Reply #48 on:** August 04, 2018, 00:10:03 »

Biggest task with one is to actually print things you need, not just little models to fill the house & office: I think it took me about 6 months before I achieved that when I did a couple of spacers for the garden shredder.

Usually it's stuff like this:

Mr Nick · « **Reply #49 on:** August 06, 2018, 20:36:51 »

After putting everything back together I went for a run Saturday morning. Mostly things were OK, but I was aware of a noise from the front end over bumps. It could be forks, it could just be fairing banging a bit.

Back home I decided to strip the forks just to eliminate anything there: despite the fact that I changed the oil last week, this is what came out...

I'm struggling the see any trace of the clear red AQF I put in!

Not only does it look manky, there's so much shit in it that it's too thick to even soak into the paper towel.

The original owner listed everything he had done in the back of the handbook: I can't see any reference to a fork oil change, so that could have been there for 24k miles and 29 years...

Everything else looked OK so I'm putting the noises down to the fairing, which I'll take a look at the mounting of later.

Remember the brake fluid? (check page 2 if you don't) I see an entry for it being changed at 20k miles - only 4k ago: however, that was 1995 so no wonder it looked dodgy!

I've had a look at the wiring diagram to see if my suspicions that the voltmeter is plumbed into the light circuit is correct: it is, which explains the large drop when I switch them on. I might change where that is fed from to see if it can be a bit less of a fibber. I also know which wire feeds the power from the reg to the charging light, which also seems a tad pessimistic. A little digital voltmeter is on order that will be connected across the battery to give me a real sense of what is going on.

I've also just discovered that the indicator buzzer isn't an aftermarket add-on, despite the appearance of the wiring connectors suggesting such.

Gassoon · « **Reply #50 on:** August 06, 2018, 20:43:31 »

Great stuff, Mr Nick

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 06, 2018, 21:34:24 »

Wow

That fork fluid looks

You planning a deep clean or just going to refresh the oil in them again

Mr Nick · « **Reply #52 on:** August 06, 2018, 22:05:47 »

The forks were dismantled this time & all that crap cleaned out: fairly simple task with the self contained damper units. Take the bolt out of the bottom of the slider & let it drop, unscrew the top mount and the guts lift out.
Rebuilding is equally easy: drop the spring/damper unit in, re-attach the bottom, pour in 70cc AQF and screw the top back on. No farting about with oil levels.

SuzukiSte · « **Reply #53 on:** August 07, 2018, 12:25:33 »

Nice One Mr Nick

Mr Nick · « **Reply #54 on:** August 08, 2018, 22:19:19 »

My little digital voltmeter arrived today so I took the seat & tank off yet again to figure out how I wanted to wire it in. While I was looking, I spotted a couple of wires I wasn't sure of the purpose of: turns out they were meant to be some basic hidden switch immobiliser that the original owner fitted. When I say meant to be, I'm going to show you the wires:

The 2 black wires opposite each other without insulation are the 2 that are connected to the switch. No other connections, just 2 to an earth.
I may not be the world's greatest electrical expert, but I'm pretty confident saying that it actually does sod all...

In the paperwork that went with the bike to the last owner, there is mention of this switch - 'switch in forward position: bike runs, switch pointing backwards: bike won't start'. The reality though was - switch forward: bike runs, switch backwards: bike runs, switch ripped out & lying on garage floor: bike runs... (forget about the kill switch being 'backwards': bike doesn't start

)

I don't know if he'd meant to connect the ignition box earths (the 2 yellow/green wires) to one of the wires and route them via the switch to earth, but his execution of the plan was fundamentally flawed.

Taking a look further down the notes, he said he'd changed the brake fluid, presumably when preparing her for sale I.e. early last year. If that is the case, then something has gone really south in the meantime. If the rubber hoses are starting to deteriorate inside then I could see the fluid being contaminated within them: but the horrible brown was right the way through the fluid, including in the reservoirs.

I had always planned to replace the hoses with braided, but this might bring that plan forward from the closed season. I'll keep an eye on what's happening to the fluid over the next few weeks and go from there - everything feels OK so I'm not overly worried. I'm also not a great user of brakes: v twin engines do most of the work for me....

TLPower · « **Reply #55 on:** August 09, 2018, 07:52:31 »

That picture really should contain a warning Mr Nick or at least a link to a help line. The Whitworth Giant will have an attack of the vapours when he sees those wires.

tallpaul · « **Reply #56 on:** August 09, 2018, 07:58:56 »

Oh Lordy, I feel faint...
What bolt are the offensive wires attached to? I can see a bleed nipple.

TLPower · « **Reply #57 on:** August 09, 2018, 08:50:33 »

Guzzi electrics with a sprinkling of Uncle Joe Lucas. The bleed nipple was fitted to let the smoke out. My later model Cagiva benefits from a vented loom.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #58 on:** August 09, 2018, 18:39:59 »

It's OK TP - that is a chassis bracket that the ignition units are meant to be attached to. The bleed nipple is on the load proportioning valve that sits behind the left side panel. Here's the context:

You can see the yellow of the earth wires under the right white connector.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #59 on:** August 19, 2018, 19:59:01 »

I've still been pottering about with the SP3 since my last post: just doing a few things here & there.
Last Saturday I took her out, intending to put in a good few miles in prep for this weekend's planned trip to the West coast (which the weather scuppered anyway...). I was trying a different helmet as I find my usual one is fairly noisy in combination with the screen - the other was just the same so I needed a different solution (more alter).

One thing I found very early on was that the bike accelerated when I turned right, so trip was cut short. I quickly figured out that I'd put both the throttle cables on the same side of the airbox, leaving the right one just a bit short.

Since the fairing sides were off, I decided to take the main part off as well & check the brackets & wiring. Those of you who remember my V50 build may recall the absolute mess the wiring of it was in, and it was all wrapped in blue tape, so you'll understand my terror when I saw this...

Thankfully, it was only protecting proper spade connectors and some heatshrink is now in place instead.

The helmet noise issue I feel is down to how the air is going past the fairing so I'm going to try something. I've printed off six of these:

and I'm using them to lift the screen away from the fairing by 10mm:

My thinking is to allow some air in & both provide some ventilation for me, and disrupt whatever airflow is causing the noise, I'll give it a try & see how it goes.

The replacement program continues - now I have all this spare:

Which meant I had to do a re-supply order to replenish the stocks: