An Old Classic - Headlight Connector Corrosion

[Descolada]

Hi Folks,

I'm looking for a little advice with an issue I am trying to resolve.

It's the old "corroded headlight connection" behind the radiator story.

Rode into work last week and everything was fine, noticed a slight flicker on my running lights (additional aux added by me). Came out of work and started the bike to find that I had side lights, aux lights but no head lights (low or high beam). Checked all the fuses and pushed around the big light connector (left-hand behind the faring) to see if there was a bad connection there, but that made no difference to the lights.

So today I started to strip everything out so I could get a good look at the connectors running under the tank (clipped to the back of the radiator shroud).

What I found was a seriously charred pin on the large green connector block (see inline photos). [sorry about the clarity of the photos - my phone is awful at this].

See attachment

and ...

See attachment

All the gunk (blue gunk) you see around the connections is ACF non corrosion grease (so that worked well  ) but I'm not sure this is recoverable without replacing the block - which means some serious strip out and splicing.

Has anyone had to do this job and if so do you have any advice for how to proceed - would you try to persevere and clean the contacts or would you remove and re-splice a new connector?

Thanks Everyone

[Fat Rat]

I have done it. I ended up inline soldering the wires, heat shrinking each and then heat shrink over the lot. 

[Descolada]

Thanks FatRat,

I was worried it might end in that. Where did you get the block connector, or did you just replace the offending pins?

[Fat Rat]

I didn't, it was a 2003 Vee, I started bypassing the connector for the pins that were too far gone then I ended up cutting the connector out completely.

[Descolada]

That's interesting, I hadn't thought of doing that. I guess the connector block is there just to make it easier to separate the from wiring harness for the rear?

Ironically, I cleaned up the from harness before going on the NC500 this years and included a liberal wrapping of cling film. It's a real shame I didn't also do this to those pesky "under the tank" connections. 

[King Orry]

In the past I’ve taken the ‘lazy/easy option’ and cleaned up the good ones, then only cut-replaced the knackered connections.
It’s a pain in the wotsit fer sure though. 
I’ve also used lenghts of cut-up push bike inner tube to cover connections, you can go way past the block in either direction then.
In fact, on a CG125 I had a piece from coil to plug cap as it was terrible in the wet, loosing the spark under load all the time.

[Descolada]

Yeah, I considered just replacing the single corroded pin but am a little concerned about cross contamination and melting of the plastic block. You can't really tell (from my fecking awful photos) but the two closest connectors to the culprit look a little suspect.

After I get this fixed I'm going to look a little harder at using relays for the headlights in the theme of the eastern beavers solution.

How far clear of the frame do you think your can pull this harness? I'm looking at how difficult access will be if I go down the soldering route. As it is I've already dropped the rad and separated the plastic cowl in order to get more access. I've also released the electrical block attaching clip so that's free as well.     

[greywolf]

ACF50 helps with weather related corrosion. However, the main problem with headlight connections, especially on models with twin headlights, is overheating as the connectors are carrying more power than they can handle well over long periods of time. Adding headlight relays will prevent that problem.

[Descolada]

Thanks Greywolf, I'm going to have to look into relays in place once I get this fix in place.

In the meantime. I've spent the afternoon applying the workaround suggested by fat rat. Clipped the insulation back to get some room. Soldered replacement wire in place and made the connection using what they refer to as "Japanese Bullet Connectors". Then wrapped the exposed wiring back up with self amalgamating rubber tape.

Signs of burning is clearly visible on both parts of the connector.

I've had to stop for today because it's a little chilly where I am and I can't feel my fingers again, oh, that and the fact that the light is beginning to go again. I'll complete testing before I put it all back together and then rebuild.

It's quite a job.

I had to strip out the tank and drop the radiator down in order to get enough room to move 

Some pics to show what I've been doing, just in case it helps someone else out in the future.

 

[Silverback]

Hi, I had the same problem, I just bought new connector housings and pins as mine suffered bad heat damage.  You can buy a 10 way HM09010 Sumitomo to replace the yellow connector and an 8 way HM0908 for the other side as that will also probably be corroded.
You will need the crimping tool though.

[greywolf]

Hopefully, seeing this will remind people to get those relays installed. It is so much easier to avoid the problem rather than fix it.

[Cbx]

Not trying to hijack the thread but would fitting Led's bulbs (something like these) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-9003-HB2-Hello-Lo-Dual-Bulb-Car-LED-Headlight-Kit-200W-20000LM-6000K-Lamps-UK/182729133805?hash=item2a8b814eed:g:LKYAAOSw3yxZnUKI make a difference to the power draw and therefor the heat? I Have K2 that I'd like to replace all lights with Led's at some point.

[greywolf]

Lowering the draw will decrease heat. No other lights will get the draw down to the milliwatt level like relays but LEDs may do the job well enough.

[wurzel]

Which models does this affect, mine is a Veek on a 2014 plate, is it worth me putting in a relay?

[greywolf]

I would recommend putting relays on all side by side twin headlight models. Those like the Veek with the low beam on all the time will have a similar draw when the high beam is used but only around half on low beam alone and Eastern Beaver doesn't have a relay kit. It's a toss up.

[wurzel]

Thank you Greywolf, sounds like it's worth doing, I can make up a small harness incorporating fuse and a couple of relays easy enough.

[greywolf]

My preference is a fuse for high and a fuse for low. If you blow a fuse one dark night, you'll still have the other beam available.

[wurzel]

Thank you, that makes sense to me, I shall follow your advice.

[Descolada]

I'm looking for a little assistance from the more electrically minded please?

I am building a relay harness based on the diagram provided by greywolf here;

http://www.stromtrooper.com/techy-world-gps-electronics-etc/298105-headlight-relay.html

I have all the components together and decided to use the relays that Eastern Beaver use in their H4 harness - these are Panasonic CA1A-12V-N-5 relays. I have been unable to locate a UK based provider of the corresponding socket (Digi-key label it as "TE Connectivity AMP Connectors 172134-1") and have been trying to figure out the pin numbers on the Panasonic relays. The relays do not have any pin labels on them, just the part code.

The datasheet for these relays show the circuitry diagram but do not include any pin identification either.
Has anyone else used these and would you happen to know how I figure out the pin numbers ?

[Descolada]

OK, so forget that last post. I've just realised that greywolf's diagram uses relays with 5 pins rather than 4.   

I will get a couple of 5 pin 30A relays and start again.