L2 Ignition Switch removal...Help req

[crazyhorse]

Hello

I am trying to remove the ignition switch from the 'stem upper bracket', and the books says to 'use a chisel to remove the bolts'.

There are no bolts as the phto below shows, so what holds it on, and how to remove it.
Or am I missing a step.

I have tried a Dremel to see if the stubs are just covers, but do not wish to push it to far.

Any suggestions!
Crazyhorse

[greywolf]

It is the two odd little round parts that need to be removed by grinding down or chiseling off. Older models had security Torx bolts. Apparently, that wasn't secure enough.

[crazyhorse]

Hi
Greywolf

If that's the case, I will continue with the Dremel, but it seems very crude engineering.

Thanks for the input and Happy New Year.

Crazyhorse

[greywolf]

I wouldn't call it crude. A rivet is an elegant fastener for materials that are meant to avoid ease of separation. The purpose of the assembly is to prevent theft. If it was easy to get the switch off, the purpose would be defeated.

[crazyhorse]

Hi Greywolf

I have Dremelled the switch plug as far as I am happy to do, but with no sign of a nut or bolt underneath.

I will try drilling out the other side to see if that makes any difference.

Is it possible that the European switch is different to the US version?

Cheers
Crazyhorse

[tallpaul]

 Security and all that... Car steering columns use bolts that are designed to have the head shear off leaving a tightened shank behind. Just keep grinding away until the heads are no more.

[Hugh Mungus]

Probably too late now but...

Using a fairly blunt screwdriver (chisels are no good), hammer the screwdriver at an angle on the stud in order to loosen it - go in an anti-clockwise fashion. The stud will chew up a bit but will eventually start to move - if you use a chisel you will do two things. Knacker a good chisel and just knock lumps out of the stud.

When you re-fit the ignition just use normal bolts as no bike was ever stolen by someone removing the ignition barrel.

Now you have probably gone too far with the dremel the other way is to drill them out. WARNING. Only use top quality drill bits. If you use cheap ones you will get no-where fast as they will just go blunt very quickly. Ideally you are looking at spending £25/30 on a small set of drills not the ones that are £7.99 for 20 odd drills.

Good luck.

[kwackboy]

They are security bolts , imagine an M8 bolt with a rounded head.
What you need to do is drill the heads off with a drill bit that's slightly bigger than the thread (M8/8mm in this instance.) Drill down a few mm, the head should break off from the thread .
After that lift off the ignition , this will leave the remaining thread in the top yoke then use mole grips to turn out the remaining thread .   

[crazyhorse]

Hi

Still having great deal of trouble with the ignition switch, and as you can see from the attached, it is not going well for me.

I have only attacked one of 'The Plugs', but it will not let go, and I do not wish to be any more brutal with it.

Any other suggestions...please?

Crazyhorse

[greywolf]

I had forgotten the casting is countersunk for the screw heads. As others have said, it needs to be drilled out. You can see in this picture how deep the holes are. I'd go at it with a left hand drill bit. A smaller hole and an easy out would be an option.

[kwackboy]

By the looks of your picture you are nearly there removing the head as what remains in the centre is the thread. Take it down a tiny bit more then do the same the other side.

May I ask why you are removing the ignition ..?

[crazyhorse]

Hi Kwackboy

I am replacing the head bearings, as the originals were notched, and the only real reason for removing the switch from the upper bracket, is mild damage caused by my own clumsiness in dropping the bike onto a small section of crash barrier in a layby earlier this year.

I wish I had left the bloody thing alone and tidied what I could see.

Still getting over the flu as well, so not at my best. Will try again tomorrow.

Crazyhorse

[crazyhorse]

Hi

Having shook off most of the flu, and having a very good engineer as a friend, he managed to separate the ignition switch from the upper triple clamp.

According to my friend, the worst was getting the red Loctite to let go.

Thanks for all your help, and my advice is never to do this unless absolutely necessary.
 
Crazyhorse

[hotbulb]

Loctite AND security bolts .... very "belt & braces". No  wonder you had trouble! Usually, thread locking compounds release their grip when heated .... maybe useful for the future, supposing you can get heat at the threaded components. A soldering iron might be useful if a naked flame is "inappropriate" (What an over-used word!).

[Hugh Mungus]

Luckily I've only had to do that job a couple of times in over 30 years of owning bikes.
It's not easy (it's not meant to be) and you either need a bit of good luck or some very good drill bits!

[kwackboy]

Glad you got it sorted .. 

[UK_Vstrom650]

Me too. (Also glad I didn't remove mine doing the steering bearings, although I did think about it).

Good luck with the fix/repair.