Fairing and tank removal 2017 DL1000

[Markymark11]

I have searched for an idiots guide to removing the fairing and tank on a 2017 DL1000 but can't seem to find a link. Obviously someone has done it so if anyone knows where there is an "idiots guide" please let me know.

The handbook says things like "remove the panel" but it doesn't say whether you pull, push forward, lever up, pull back while applying pressure..etc etc , and I don't want to snap off tabs on my first attempt.

I have come from the Versys 1000 forum where they have a technical sections with video and pictures of how to do any job, I couldn't see one on here but if there is can anyone direct me.
Many thanks 

[greywolf]

One bit of knowledge that helps is the way the plastic rivets work.

[philthunder]

And then you go and lose one 

[chris1200]

Where do the damn things go??? I'm sure there's a wormhole on my bike that sucks the things in. Oh and if the purpose of of taking the faring off is to take the tank off, if its like mine you don't have to. Just release all the bits surrounding the tank and lift it off....and if you find any spare fixings...they are mine!

[Valves]

The online workshop manual is good - you can download the sections and print 

[Paz324]

I had the same problem when I lifted the tank on mine to get my GPS power cable installed.

1. Undo the three bolts on the white plastics that run from the fuel tank to the beak and slide forwards to remove.

2. Look down near the top yoke, you should see some wiring held in place by a clip mounted on the inner side of the grey side fairings, you should just pull these clips out and I mean yank them out it takes quite a bit of force.

3. Undo the single bolt on the grey side fairing and pull forwards, this section has a wide rubber coated locating lug.

4. Remove the seat (if you haven't already) and undo the bolt and plastic pop rivets which hold the grey plastic lining the fuel tank and surrounding the filler cap.

You should be clear at this point to remove the tank, a prop is supplied and should be found under the seat bolted to the fuel tank.

[philthunder]

Tried that as far as 3.
It looks like there are three cross head screws on the inside of the fairing to come out?
on 4 there are two plastic poppers each side of the tank at the front.
Is there just the single bolt holding the grey side panel as in para. 3?
Where can you find the online workshop manual?

[Paz324]

The screws on the inside don't hold anything on to the bike, I assume they are meant for splitting those grey sides in half as they have an outer and an inner side which create a pod of sorts..

There may be another bolt in step 3, if there is it'll be hidden under the white sections removed in step 1, otherwise there is only the 1 bolt.

And sorry no workshop manual yet, I had to read the owners manual and work it out for myself, if you'd of posted earlier I could of taken some photos of mine while I was cleaning all the weekends crap off it.

If you get stuck just let me know and I'll double check, and step 2 can be a pain you really have to pull those clips out of the fairing with some force but they will go back in OK so don't worry.

philthunder, I'm between Wolverhampton and Birmingham so if you want me to show you how its done just PM me and we can arrange something.

[Markymark11]

PAZ324 - that's brilliant thank you  (and everyone else who contributed) ..exactly what I needed. I also found some google images of the instrument cluster removed so I could see how that came off after the screws and push pins were removed.

I have now fitted the Givi FB3114 "overclock" bracket for my Zumo 345lm and because of the help have run the cable down (and attached) to the windscreen frame and then back along the sides and under the tank to the battery. I am pretty sure there is no draw from the cradle when ignition is off but if I find it is drawing then I will go for a switched supply.

Thanks again 

[Gassoon]

Great stuff Paz !  that's how these forum thingies should work, imho!