Job done, everything is working fine! Thanks for all your help blokes! The voltage between the coils is 3*75V and idle charging voltage is around 14V. I've also installed a new battery so I'll ride with it for a couple of hours to charge it fully and then I'll test the charging voltage @ 5k rpm to confirm that the R/R is not faulty.
Questions time!
Glad you found the problem. 
If I'm changing stators in customers bikes I always give the stator fresh oil .
Once you remove the stator would you mind telling me at what point the stator is burnt ? I'm suspecting the top .
I've changed both the oil and the filter. It's hard for me to tell which part of the stator is burnt, it looks fine if you just look at it, nothing like the
pictures I've googled before.This is my old stator taken off the bike. It looks just like the one I've bought.
I haven't thrown it away yet so let me know if you want me to test it somehow.
Hello All
Where did you buy your new stator & how much please?
I have been quoted £281 inc vat from Suzuki Uk, but £158 for a pattern one with 1 years warranty from Suzuki Germany inc p&p
Regards
I've always preferred buying used genuine items than new aftermarket ones (new OEM ones are the best of course if you are willing to spend cash). I've found an eBay auction and I've bought a stator taken off from a 2016 bike. It's supposed to have done only 3k miles. We'll see - I've paid £105 for it shipped.
eBay link. Plus £18 for the gasket shipped from Fowlers. You could probably found these cheaper but I was pushed for time. I've ordered the parts on Thursday and I needed them on Friday to replace the stator over the weekend.
And can you take some photos and post them on here please ?
Sure thing. I've followed the service manual as it explains the process quite well. I've taken some photos though.
Must haves in my opinion are:
A set of Allen keys - although you will only need 5 and 6 mm if I am not mistaken
A set of metric sockets - again, you will only need 8 and 14 mm if I remember correctly.
Flat screwdriver as a universal tool
Cleaner - I've used a brake cleaner
Torque wrench - I've used my trusty
Proxxon 3-15 Nm wrench, it covers most of torques you will need for engine works - at least the ones with "small" bolts.
Nice to have is:
A work bench
Rubber mallet
A very nice to have is:
A gasket scraper
So what you do first is you remove the engine sprocket cover and mud guard/skid plate. You'll need hex keys for that.
Then you have to drain the oil (14 mm socket). Make sure to recycle it properly!
Remove the speed sensor (5 mm hex key and 8 mm sockets).
Remove the clutch release arm (8 mm socket), spring and washer. I've been struggling to remove it, make sure you don't use too much force as it looks to be quite fragile. Try to move it around, maybe use a rubber mallet. To make sure I put it back in the same place I've marked it with a Sharpie only to see that there are marks on the arm and shaft. My Sharpie marking came off after I've touched them anyway
The next thing I've removed were the generator wires. The plugs are visible if you look from the right hand side in between the frame. One plug has three yellow wires, another has two - one white and one green. You'll have to open the zip tie as well. It's the type that you can open and tighten as make times as you want. There is a tab there that you have to press/pull. Make sure not to open it all the way as it might be difficult to tighten it again once the parts come apart. Just loosen it enough to get the connectors through.
Now get back to the left hand side of the bike and open the clamp holding the wires in place.
I forgot to take a photo of the cover before I took it off but the manual says which bolts to undo.
Once the bolts are removed remove the cover. You might find it a bit hard - try hitting it with your palm or a rubber mallet if you need to. Once loosen you might feel that something is holding the cover in place, it feels like a spring if you like. Don't worry - it's probably both the old gasket and magneto's magnet holding the cover. Keep pulling until the parts come apart.
Once the cover is out remove the old stator and CKP sensor.
Remove the dovel pins and starter idle shaft. I had to take everything apart two times because after putting everything back together I've realised that the starter idle shaft fell on the floor and I've missed it.
Clean the cover from the inside and remove any residue of the old gasket. This is when the gasket scraper would come handy. If you don't have one (like me) you can use a flat screwdriver, wrap it with a rag and try to clean both the cover and engine surfaces. Just make sure you re-wrap it frequently as the sharp edge of the screwdriver easily cuts through the rug and you don't want to be scraping aluminium parts of the engine with your screwdriver. Put the new stator back in and tighten it to the specified torque. Make sure you install the clamp when installing the CKP sensor. It should either come with your stator or you can use the old one.
Tightening torque for the stator is 11 Nm and for the CKP sensor it's 6.5 Nm.
Install the dovel pins and the starter shaft (lube it with oil first) to the engine side, put the new gasket on the cleaned engine side. Be careful to properly align the dovel pins and the starter shaft against the. You will probably feel the magnet pulling the cover so be please don't let your fingers get caught between the parts. Clean and apply grease to the clutch push rod.
Reinstall everything in the reverse order. Tighten the generator cover bolts (10 Nm), install the speed sensor (4.5 Nm). Route the wiring harness, put the plugs back in, install the clutch release arm (remember about the marks there), spring and washer - tighten the clutch release arm bolt to 9 Nm. Install the engine sprocket cover (5.5 Nm).
Pour new engine oil, make sure the are no leaks and that the pol level is correct. Reinstall the mud guard.
Enjoy
Service manual guides you thought the process quite well so refer to it in case you get lost.
Imgur albumI am alto attaching photos to this post in case Imgur decides to delete it.
