Author Topic: My obsession with oil fill height (Read 4390 times)

Rich:-) · « **on:** September 19, 2016, 11:43:37 »

I recently did an oil & filter change, I set the oil height whilst on the centre stand so filled on the high side.

I took the bike out yesterday but before setting off I thought the oil looked low so I topped her up a bit.

Then whilst out I thought it looked too high.. so after ponding it over night I decided to check it today once she'd cooled down.
First I checked my garage floor was level, it is thankfully.

This is the level with her on the center stand,

Then I placed the bike on the side stand and used a small block of wood that put the bike at almost balance point.

and the level then looked like this.

Which I think is about perfect.
Just amazing how much difference there is between the center & side stand, and also the height difference between hot oil & cool oil.

grumps · « **Reply #1 on:** September 19, 2016, 12:07:54 »

You can get counselling!

Agree though...hot/cold and a very minor change in balance of the bike makes a huge difference to the level shown.

It's got oil in it and it runs aok - go ride

Hondaman · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2016, 13:01:14 »

Haa, it's good to hear I'm not the only one!
Find one method that works and stick to it. I find checking during or after a ride with a hot engine and holding the bike vertical works for me.

alibx11 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 19, 2016, 13:05:42 »

When the bike is on the main stand the rear wheel is off the ground so that tells you the bike is slanting forwards slighty putting bias of oil forwards in the crankcase, where the sight glass is.
I always do mine with the reading from a centre stand position, although manual states an "upright position", so neither clear on centre stand or balanced.

Rich:-) · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2016, 13:42:57 »

I would think it more likely that as the bike doesn't come with a center stand (as standard), the manual must be referring to the bike not being on a stand at all?

greywolf · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:04:42 »

The manual states the oil level reading is to be done with the bike supported vertically. As was mentioned, the bike doesn't come with a centre stand so that means both tyres on the ground with suspension loaded. The sight glass is toward the front of the engine so it will appear higher on the centre stand.

kwackboy · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:05:48 »

Oil should always be checked off the centre stand if you have one with the bike upright at balance point .

In me shed · « **Reply #7 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:38:06 »

So if I put mine on the centre stand how big a block of wood do I put under the front wheel to make it level

alibx11 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:46:09 »

The same size block of wood that would fit under the back wheel when it's on the stand obviously...

In me shed · « **Reply #9 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:52:12 »

but then the front wheel will up in the air and the back wheel will be on the floor, so it'll be sloping backwards

Loz · « **Reply #10 on:** September 19, 2016, 15:57:36 »

wouldn't be a block of wood half the size of the gap under the back wheel? although this would allow for natural settlement of the front forks ;)

alibx11 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 19, 2016, 16:52:39 »

Too true, IMS,

shows what I know.... as Loz says... 1/2 the size..

greywolf · « **Reply #12 on:** September 19, 2016, 17:11:30 »

If checking on the centre stand, the top fill line effectively becomes the top of the window. If you see the slightest air bubble at the top of the window, call it good.

In me shed · « **Reply #13 on:** September 19, 2016, 17:29:28 »

Thanks Greywolf

I don't think 1/2 the size of the gap at the rear wheel will allow enough for the rear suspension travel. I'll just lash the handlebars to the garage roof and take it off the stand, or maybe just trust Greywolf.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #14 on:** September 19, 2016, 17:46:37 »

Angled mirror on stick.
( Pat. pending G. Wolf)

Rich:-) · « **Reply #15 on:** September 19, 2016, 18:29:49 »

An old (snapped off) mirror from my first bike, that's what I use. It's come in very handy for all sorts of jobs.

mr_diver · « **Reply #16 on:** September 19, 2016, 19:15:27 »

I've played around with leveling the bike out...
Luckily out side my Garage the slab slopes away from the garage. On the center stand the bike sits perfectly level if facing into the garage.

I checked the level by holding a small spirit level against the marks next to the oil sight window.

joderest · « **Reply #17 on:** September 20, 2016, 07:54:29 »

I have to ask, how critical is the level ?
I have always checked mine on main stand, and filled to top line, however, this could mean I am short of a small bit of oil.
Wife not man !!! enough to hold bike upright for me (8 stone and nothing else) I might have to try the block under side stand and see what reading that gives.
When I change oil, I always pour in the correct amount, using a jug with level markers, always seems to be correct.

Flanners · « **Reply #18 on:** September 20, 2016, 08:11:53 »

I'm not sure it is as critical/neurotic inducing as we allow it to be....a satisfactory oil level is between F and L no more no less.

Having said that however I do marvel at the different readings I get for centre stand, off the centre stand, balanced on level ground and then adding hot or cold into the mix; sticking to the instructions gives a reading to stick with from the manual. Not sure what the amount of oil added amounts to between F and L somewhere around 500ml (?) on the Vee? I keep tabs on mine via the centre stand having as other's have gauged it 'off the stand' first.

In my small experience many modern engines can be a pain in the arse to get a reliable oil level including my cars.

Rich:-) · « **Reply #19 on:** September 20, 2016, 10:26:24 »

Yeh, the manual says to run for 3 minutes and then rest for 3 minutes. I think 3 minutes of run time is enough to get the oil near normal running temp and nicely aerated. Will a 3 minute rest allow all of the small bubbles to surface and clear away.. maybe, probably not.

Interestingly this is the same advice for my DRZ, which is totally different as it's a dry sump... but at least with those I appreciate the need to pre-run the engine as the oil is stored in the frame and could have drained back into the engine depending on how long it's been left...

It's interesting but car manufacturers generally ask that you check the oil with the engine cold, which seems like a much more sensible datum point.