Thought I'd post up how things went after setting about my brakes today in case anyone else fancies a go, but is a bit unsure. However, I didn't take any pics, so I'm hoping my explanations are good enough
After my rear brake hose failed when I was in Scotland at the end of May, I decided the KLV needed a brake overhaul. Braided lines, front caliper seals, master cylinder overhaul kit, and fresh fluid all purchased in the lead up to today. I'd already checked the pads, loads left on them, so they would be reused. Got up early, weather forecast good (was actually roasting by half 9), car moved off the drive, and KLV out the garage and onto rear paddock stand at 8 o'clock this morning.
Calipers off, and rather then start riving at the pistons with mole grips when they are normally seated (I haven't got access to compressed air to get them out), I got a couple of bits of 1/2" timber and took the pads out of the first caliper. Pumped the brake lever to get the pistons out (only 1 came out at first, the other one was snagged on the dust seal quite badly), and put the timber in to stop them coming too far. Same with the other side, then release the banjo bolts to allow the calipers to be free. Grips wrapped in an old towel to stop any scarring of the pistons, and there's only about 10mm to go to pull them out. Dead easy.
Pistons had quite a bit of crud on the first 8 mm, but the rest of them were spot on. Bit of cleaner, a good scrub, and get rid of the few really stubborn bits with some 1200 wet and dry and they looked like new. Old fluid seals and dust seals out (2 of the dust seals came out with the pistons, no wonder the front brakes were so crappy), cleaned up the bores, they weren't too bad, just a few dark patches where the seals sit really. New seals in with a bit of brake fluid smeared on them to ease them in, and makes putting the pistons back in easier.
Old brake lines then removed making sure to put a rag below the banjo bolt at the master cylinder to catch spillage. Then hand guard off, mirror off, and loosen the clamp that holds the master cylinder and brake lever to the bars. Once off, remove the brake lever (1 bolt). Then the tricky bit if you haven't got the right tools. The rubber dust seal on the piston gets pulled back revealing a circlip about an inch down the barrel. I've got a set of interchangeable circlip pliers, but as luck would have it, my pal across the road had just wandered over and said he had just the ticket for that circlip. If you're going to do this job, I definitely recommend getting or borrowing these extended 90 degree pliers:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-TOOLS-4739-Circlip-Pliers-90-degree-internal-/131121335765?hash=item1e8770cdd5:g:SMcAAOxyLm9TBhx0So, master cylinder stripped down, new spring, seal, new seal on the piston, new circlip, and new dust seal fitted, with the internal bits smeared with brake fluid. Refit the master cylinder to the bike with the brake lever refitted. Run in the braided lines. I went for the "Race" set up where there's a double banjo bolt fitted to the master cylinder and a separate line going to each caliper. This is different to the originals which has 1 line from the master cylinder which then branches into 2 just above the front wheel. Lines fitted to the calipers, and fastened in a couple of places using the original mounting brackets to stop the lines wafting about.
Then the fun part, bleeding the bleeding things...
I did the same on my Ninja a few years back, and bleeding them was a complete nightmare, so I knew what to expect. Fortunately, my mate Steve also loaned me a vacuum bleed kit (this was about half an hour after starting in the "tried and trusted" method of doing it with the brake lever). It was still a chew on, but way easier than not having it. I finished it off with the old method just to get the last little bit of air out, but those vacuum kits are bloody handy. Again, worth investing or borrowing if you're going to do this.
The lever has less travel and more pressure than it had before, and that was the original aim. I'm not fully happy with it, but my judgement is also spoiled cos my 990 Superduke has front Brembos and they are bang on, so maybe I'm expecting too much. I've done the usual "cable tie the lever to the bar overnight" trick, and see if that gets a result in the morning.
The rear brake is only used by me in an "Oh 5h1t!!!" moment, so overhauling the caliper and rear master cylinder wasn't on the agenda, it was just a hose replacement then bleed. Hardest job here was cracking the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. The little blighter was pretty solid, and access wasn't great at first. Came away eventually once I removed the metal cover from the front of the M/C so I could get good pressure on the spanner plus keep it nice and square. New hose on, seat off, side trim in front of the seat off so I could pull the rear trim out the way to access the fluid reservoir (put the fluid in using a small funnel cos it's not easily accessible). Bled this one the old way, took no doing. The lever is good and solid, but like I say, it's really an emergency brake most of the time.
So, job done in about 6 hours. I wanted to take less time, but before I started if someone had offered me 6 hours, I'd have taken it. We'll see if the cable tie malarky will get the lever any firmer, but I'd live with the way it ended up this afternoon.
In hindsight, if I'd thought about doing a write up, I would have took pics, but putting it on here only just came to me. Sorry about that.
Hope this maybe helps someone who fancies doing all or even part of what I've done.
Andy.
