Author Topic: PCFC fitted. (Read 6634 times)

trotts · « **on:** June 11, 2016, 15:17:22 »

Greetings.

Thought I would share this, and please make of it what you will.

Thanks to the efforts of many here on this forum, and else where, I now run my V Strom with the latest ECU that as per that great thread. Those who have had the updated ECU will know it transforms the ride quality. I have a ‘Fuel’ end can (Diablo) with mine the baffle is in situ. This is a popular exhaust. No other engine mods.

I have always been a fan of power commanders from Dyno jet Since around 2000 and had either PC III or V. (I had them on my bandit 1250, two Varaderos, and a 955i Tiger. )

I see from searching the forum that a few had placed the latest gizmo from Dyno jet, the PCFC. (Power commander fuel controller). It is basically a slimmed down version of the PC V at a far lesser, and more attractive cost, and is designed only for getting your fuelling spot on, where as with the PC V you can attach all sorts of other race gizmos to them (quick shifters /auto Tune and so on. never really wanted on this sort of bike).

I had mine installed yesterday, with a custom map, and asked “Dyno Dave’ who I have got to know quite well over the years, to do me a before and after print out.

The chart below is quite interesting. The Blue is before the fitting of the PCFC and the red afterwards. The bottom section is the A/F mixture that is perhaps the most important!

In fairness it’s not that bad after 4K revs but was still extremely lean before 4K. You will also note the Torque and the Power went up considerably between 3.5 and 4.5K revs after work.

Also please remember the performance figures are at the Rear wheel, NOT the crank, where all the manufacturers quote.

The ride was good before, but it has gone up another notch now!

During my chat with ‘Dyno Dave’ he says that anyone fitting a non-standard ‘End can’ should consider having it looked at, as the Lamba sensors will not compensate enough. I was not able to get a reading with the standard Suzuki OEM exhaust on the Bike, as I have ditched that for the Fuel.

Previous experience tells me my MPG will also improve, it certainly did so on my previous Bikes. I will add in a few weeks on my return from first tour.

The PCFC cost me £175 plus vat, and the time to tune same and install

trotts · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2016, 18:12:08 »

Hope can read the PDF attachment ?

I guess you need to log in to view, not as 'guest visitor'. This is my first attachment effort

!

Captain · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2016, 07:53:04 »

The attachment works. Very interesting, that torque has definitely improved.

wurzel · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2016, 08:06:05 »

Thanks is about what I got with the pcv, it feels substantial in the lower rev range, and runs smoother.

If you want to go further the arrow link pipes will do it, I have a k&n filter, mild airbox mods, and the link pipe, raised the graph by about 10% from yours, takes an hour max to fit the link pipe, as you say it makes the bike a torque monster, and runs much better all round.

Captain · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2016, 22:16:47 »

What is involved in the air box mod and link pipe?

wurzel · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2016, 07:49:34 »

The arrow link pipe is just silencer off, link pipes off, which is a couple of clamps and two nuts and bolts, then fitting the arrow decat pipe in reverse order.

The airbox mod is two 25mm holes in the airbox top, before the filter, avoiding plastic bracing, once the petrol tank is off, the lid unscrews, the mod takes five minutes.

I fitted a k&n filter too, but it's not necessary imo.

The whole lot takes maybe 2 hours or less, then you need a power comander and dyno setup.

The airbox mod is not necessary, but adds a little extra breathing according to some tuning sources.

wurzel · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2016, 07:52:09 »

Here's my dyno readout after work done.

Captain · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2016, 18:34:06 »

That's a fair increase over stock. I did know the percentages to add to work out the bhp at the crank but it's got to be around 110+ bhp. What was the cost of these mods? if you don't me asking.

Captain · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2016, 18:47:22 »

Apparently with those dyno figures your getting 110.82 bhp at the crank.

trotts · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2016, 19:21:35 »

Hello Wurzel !

Wow ! removing that link pipe bike certainly 'liberates' the engine ! I will consider that in a few years time. You can see from your chart and mine, that yours is certainly got bit more torque with that link pipe gone, in fact a fair bit more.

Thing is you can go on for ever and at end of the day if you are happy with the ride quality end of. Cannot wait for the mountains end of the month

wurzel · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2016, 20:12:54 »

The mods come to about £1000, but you could go for the cheaper power comander, might get it down a couple of hundred, that's for end can, arrow decat link pipe, power comander, and dyno time.

For me it was worth it, it does pull like a train, shifting at about 8000rpm gives best acceleration, and torque from nothing to 7000 rpm is fat and meaty.

It must be remembered that each dyno will give a different reading, I did ask for real world figures, but they will vary from one dyno to the next.

wintrmute · « **Reply #11 on:** November 02, 2016, 01:59:51 »

I'm playing around with a PCFC on a DL1000A myself at the moment.
I wondered if anyone felt like sharing their fuel maps? It would certainly be appreciated and help me (and others) out when first getting going.

wurzel · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2016, 07:50:07 »

Mine was derived from the stock map,developed with dyno work.

I don't have it on my computer, and have no way of getting it, but if I were you, would get to a good dyno centre and get it set right, it makes all the difference as each bike varies .

trotts · « **Reply #13 on:** November 02, 2016, 16:36:05 »

Concur fully with Wurzel. Do not have a map. Fitted, then dyno tuned to Bike. If I had one would happily do so. Took 'Dyno Dave' about an hour to get it right.

wintrmute · « **Reply #14 on:** November 02, 2016, 23:34:21 »

How do you blokes not have a map? Wouldn't it be good to have it on your PC for peace of mind?

There's a standard USB port on the PCFC; just install the free PCFC software on your computer, plug it into the PCFC, "Get Map", "Save to file", done!

wurzel · « **Reply #15 on:** November 03, 2016, 07:56:05 »

In all honesty, I'm not much of a wizz on computers, and the system I'm running is not compatible with power comander.

I don't see this as a problem, as the bike is set up, runs fine, so I don't need to fiddle with the map.

With the Veek, which runs lean from low revs, it is important to get it set up right, for longevity, performance, and to have it run smoothly.

The decat, and in my case airbox mods, have a substantial influence on fueling, and if your modifications are different the map will be of little use on your bike.

Have you not got a dyno centre you can use? We can do the mods, get a pc, but it's the dyno work that makes it all come together, as I'm sure you know.

You don't state what you have done to the bike, or if it is stock, but with a decat, exhaust system valve removal, air box mods...be sure if you load a map, that it is compatible with what you have done, or at best it is pointless, at worse the bike could suffer.

wintrmute · « **Reply #16 on:** November 03, 2016, 08:01:32 »

I'm so confused -- I thought several of you in this thread reported fitting either a PCFC or a PCV to your bikes.

Are you saying you uninstalled them, and have instead had someone directly edit the ECU of the bike?

wurzel · « **Reply #17 on:** November 03, 2016, 08:09:10 »

The ecu can't be directly re tuned, we fit a pc, take it to a dyno centre and have the pc set up on the rolling road to get the fueling etc right.

The pc stays on the bike, influencing the ecu,that is how it works.

If the pc is removed, the bike will run the stock map from the ecu.

wintrmute · « **Reply #18 on:** November 03, 2016, 08:20:34 »

OK, I think I'm less confused by what you're saying now.
Worth noting that "PC" commonly stands for "personal computer".. as well as potentially "power commander".
So you do have maps, but they're on your PC, not your PC, and in your case, your PC isn't compatible with your PC.

*head explodes*

For what it's worth, I do have a basic map that's designed for my setup (stock+arrow slip-on), but haven't noticed much difference, and I'm interested to see ways that people gone that developed things further.

wurzel · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2016, 18:38:33 »

It seems you have the hang of my abreiviations, with an end can and power comander (pc), you will get a slightly more free top end rev, that's about it.

If you want to make the bike have more push all round, an arrow decat pipe, that eliminates the cat, and the exhaust pipe valve, o2 eliminators, and a servo buddy to fool the ecu into thinking the exhaust pipe valve is still wired in will be your first step.
Airbox mods are simple enough, and will help, but only slightly. They consist of drilling the top of the airbox, 3 or 4 20mm holes, avoiding the strengthening webs, and you could fit a k&n or similar, though I am sceptical as to their efficacy.
Any more than that and your into the heads, and maybe a compression and camshaft job, but the heads and cams are designed for smooth mid range torque, so it's not worth the bother.
Any map you get from here, in the uk, is bound to be different to your location in Australia, watch that one.