I fitted the new rubber carb connectors and went for a test ride. It seemed to have cured the problem until I stopped 30 miles later at the A12/A14 junction and it started it's shenanigans all over again.
Next on the list is the copper sealing washers under the screws in each inlet manifold that provide an access port for the carb ballancing Do-dab. Time to fire up the blow torch. - When I tested for leaks that one spot that got too hot and the carb cleaner burned off too soon.
- AND after standing for two weeks the clutch plates refused to free off. I sat on the bike with it in gear, applied front brake and pulled clutch lever, thumbed the starter and the back wheel spun-up like a little hooligan. I tried this three or four times before the clutch freed off. After this the clutch opperated as normal. 10/40 oil of the right quantity 200 miles ago. New friction plates and the steel plates are flat. Does anyone know what causes the plates to stick together. Oil too thick? Haynes manual says 10/30 is an option for summer use.