Author Topic: Switched headlamp feed (Read 4971 times)

robbie · « **on:** February 20, 2016, 13:56:54 »

Is it possible to put in a 12v rocker switch to control the feed to the twin headlamps on a VSTROM 650?

greywolf · « **Reply #1 on:** February 20, 2016, 14:41:29 »

It can be done. It sounds like the work needed is outside your experience though. Since it is a good idea to add headlight relays too, one solution is to get a headlight relay kit. Then you can use a switch to cut power to the relays. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/vstrom.html#h4dual is one source that also handles switches. Bigpie here makes relay kits and could possibly set one up for you with a switch.

The unasked question is why you would want to do it. Be aware that the bike has a charging system that shunts unused generated electricity back through the stator coils. The stator likes to burn out too easily as it is. Taking the power normally used to light the headlights and turning it into heat in the stator coils is not the best idea.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #2 on:** February 20, 2016, 14:52:48 »

( Oh for the days of a zener diode and big finned heatsink under the bottom yoke!)
Fascinating that the strom's alternator is often described as under powered, yet if we shunt too much juice it will fry the stator. Ideally we need to be in a constant state of steady charge, then, juggling devices in order not to under/over drain/charge?

greywolf · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2016, 14:57:00 »

Permanent magnet alternators can't have the magnetic field controlled by the regulator. It is always at the maximum for the rpm run. The regulator/rectifier can be replaced with a series type that will shut down charging power when the proper level is reached instead of shunting the excess into heat. The Veek has such a system and I have yet to see a problem reported on one.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #4 on:** February 20, 2016, 15:11:28 »

Sounds better. More expensive, presumably?

greywolf · « **Reply #5 on:** February 20, 2016, 16:31:23 »

Series R/Rs are no more expensive than shunt types. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,20426.0.html

ripsi · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2016, 11:37:05 »

Oh God. Burning out risk stator without headlights burning.... my problem is my low beams are fooked I can't even get a signal to pull in a relay so the eastern beaver kit rendered useless. Cleaned all the switches yesterday and have given up eventually took to a auto electrician so hopefully they can sort it out. Pissed off I'm Bike less but she needs fixing......
Anyone think the light switch could be the culprit?
Cheer and sorry for hijack of the thread...

Simon

Hondaman · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2016, 12:20:04 »

No voltage...
Fuse?

ripsi · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2016, 13:14:35 »

Fuses fine
Main beam fine
Passing switch fine
Just no dipped. It was intermittent now not on at all. Contact cleaned left hand switch gear
Jump wire from battery to white line at main connector and they come on.
Break in the harness ???????????

Sam · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2016, 13:33:19 »

Connectors behind the radiator (under the airbox) would be my guess

greywolf · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2016, 14:46:53 »

A connector behind the radiator or the large connector in the left side of the fairing are the places to check. There is a bad connection in a black/blue wire in one or the other if the switch is okay.

ripsi · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2016, 16:19:04 »

The number of times I opened and remade that connector I couldn't say. Even contact cleaned the male and female connectors. I guess I should have checked if there was voltage at the blue/black or white lines....... mmm pretty sure I would have. I'm assuming switch failure is uncommon?

greywolf · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2016, 16:32:24 »

Switch failure is much less common than connector failure. The switch contacts are better protected from the elements.

ripsi · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2016, 17:58:31 »

True.
Well I'm hoping the auto electrician will fare better than I... must confess I was getting frustrated and I didn't want to bodge the job which I started then thought better of it. I will send all suggestions to the auto electrician tomorrow with the wiring diagram so might help them out.
Thanks for all answers. Simon.

ripsi · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2016, 12:16:38 »

Well ill be buggered sideways, apparently water damage to one of the connectors, under the tank / air intake, corroded and arcing, which I suppose sitting under the fuel tank could cause a bit of a stir !! (I must be cynical still not sure if I "believe" what I'm told)

£300 to fix

and sort (5 hours labour!) maybe something to do with having to strip the tank off?????

Anyway, there we have it.... waterproof your connectors chaps !! Any suggestions to best way to provide "extra waterproofing"

Tintent115 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2016, 12:33:19 »

Not sure of the best way, but possibly the simplest might be a regular blast of WD40 or ACF50 in that direction. I'm not familiar with the layout (yet!)....would this be easy enough without removing the tank..??

ripsi · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2016, 12:34:33 »

Good shout with the ACF 50, I'm pretty sure its a water repellent too ?

Or 5p carrier bags from Tesco ? !!

Hondaman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2016, 13:02:21 »

£300 - sheesh!

As a temporary measure, I blasted mine with wd40 for a few days then with spray grease then cut some foam to fill the gap above the radiator.

Here is the 'before' pic, I thought I had an after pic on the phone but seemingly not...!

I'll do a proper job whenever I have the tank off.
It might be worth spraying the abs pump connector too while at it.

ripsi · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2016, 14:37:20 »

Yeah, tell me about it. Pretty much held to ransom, they have my bike keys in one hand and the invoice in the other. Difficult argument to have if they took their sweet time with it. And I'm getting withdrawal symptoms not having it !
Yeah ill be going over it with a fine tooth comb. Seal whatever I can. Was thinking something like a silicone grease.... but it will attract all kinds of road crap ....

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2016, 22:56:56 »

Mine were the same, but caused my c41 fuel pump fault. I opened the connectors and poured ACF50 into them, then smeared the outside of them with ACF50 corrosion block. Going to fit an inner tube over them at some point to waterproof them.

Might be worth complaining to Suzuki, they're recalling the Veek to fit rubber boots over connectors so maybe they should do the same with the Glee?