Author Topic: Possible fuel/injector issue (Read 32196 times)

greywolf · « **Reply #20 on:** February 17, 2016, 12:44:25 »

The only non vented caps are on USA California legal models with internal vent tubes connected to the throttle body intakes through charcoal canisters. No Euro spec bike has non vented caps that I've ever heard of.

That is takes a while before problems occur makes a venting problem a likely one but do a fuel pump test too. It could also be a heat related TPS failure. If popping the cap doesn't work and the fuel pump passes the volume test, I'd replace the TPS.

Andyonbass · « **Reply #21 on:** February 17, 2016, 17:24:09 »

At the risk of sounding foolhardy, mine exhibited very similar symptoms recently, what I thought was a loss of power was actually the glue on the heated grips melting with the heat and the grip turning on the throttle tube...

pr · « **Reply #22 on:** February 20, 2016, 12:29:07 »

So I went on a short ride this morning with the key in the tank cap. After about 10 minutes the problem appeared. I pulled over without switching it off, opened the cap and it didn't make any difference. I went on for about 10 minutes and lifted the cap to check it wasn't vacuum, but it didn't help.
I didn't have enough time to empty the tank and all the additive. Didn't have the heated grips switched on, so it wasn't that glue melting!

So next would be the fuel pump test. I checked the link, but I don't know where to begin. Do you need a lot of tools/disassembly to do this?

joderest · « **Reply #23 on:** February 20, 2016, 14:52:04 »

This really sounds like a blocked fuel filter, as you state, did a 200 mile run, that would have got the fuel to the bottom of the tank, and perhaps sucked up some crap, putting fresh fuel in would not help, as rubbish already in the filter.
I would start with the filter, if it is dirty/blocked, I would then remove the fuel tank and flush it out with clean fuel, put fresh fuel in and go from there.
Its a well known fact that petrol decays over time, as the bike stood for a while, there could have been rubbish in bottom of tank.

endintears · « **Reply #24 on:** February 20, 2016, 15:00:45 »

Lets try and sort out if its fuel, next check, you say the revs drop to a certain level, same when you pull the clutch in and rev the engine? same when you go up/down a hill or running on the flat?

greywolf · « **Reply #25 on:** February 20, 2016, 15:01:08 »

All it takes to do the test is to prop up the tank and make electrical connections. If that is outside your experience, you can have it done by someone familiar with such procedures. Here's how to get tank access. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7566.0.html

pr · « **Reply #26 on:** February 20, 2016, 15:55:34 »

endintears:
I did find today that when I try to rev, but it doesn't want, and I then pull the clutch in and stay on the throttle, then the rpms stay the same (so in the last case around 4000).
When it halts at those rpm, you can move the throttle up and down and sometimes it responds a little. So I also had to think of the TPS (as far as I know how that works..). But I don't know if that only acts up when the engine is warm.

Joderest/greywolf:
I'm not that comfortable taking it all apart.

Maybe later this week I have some time to do a little bit of extra testing.
Thanks for input so far!

endintears · « **Reply #27 on:** February 20, 2016, 16:26:22 »

Think its a 4K potentiometer, need to do resistance tests hot and cold.
Seems to be a lot on youtube showing how to do it + sure some friendly help will be here shortly on this forum.

endintears · « **Reply #28 on:** February 20, 2016, 17:25:15 »

Must admit I would be surprised if the tps alone would cause those symptoms, its not a fly by wire setup.
Definitely sounding engine management rather than blocked fuel or low pressure.

Hondaman · « **Reply #29 on:** February 20, 2016, 17:59:30 »

Will the bike still run (albeit in limp) with the tps disconnected?

Fat Rat · « **Reply #30 on:** February 21, 2016, 20:59:11 »

I'm collecting the bike on Tuesday and bringing it back to Rat Manor.

Can someone point me to the fuel pump test for the K7? The link GW posted mentions it but I can't see it

greywolf · « **Reply #31 on:** February 21, 2016, 21:08:20 »

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3981.0.html

The fuel amount specified is the same for all V-Strom fuel pumps. Hook up the pump motor leads to a battery and 1200 ml in 30 seconds is the spec, Y/R+ and B/W-. Things get iffy on a 650 at about half that. What to do about a bad pump is different between the K7+ 650 fuel pump and earlier or Vee pumps.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #32 on:** February 21, 2016, 21:15:35 »

I'll have it back here on Wednesday, I will post the findings

Fat Rat · « **Reply #33 on:** February 21, 2016, 21:51:50 »

I assume I can leave the pump connected to its circuit and cycle the ignition to do the flow test?

greywolf · « **Reply #34 on:** February 21, 2016, 22:00:12 »

The pump will automatically shut off after a set time if the engine isn't running as a safety feature. If you want to do a test procedure like that, the link has the amount of fuel that should be present after a set number of ignition cycles. That adds another variable, time to shut off, to the test so it isn't as accurate.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #35 on:** February 21, 2016, 22:04:37 »

Fair enough, I won't be lazy, I'll do it properly

Fat Rat · « **Reply #36 on:** February 22, 2016, 14:31:13 »

Have I got this right, the Fuel Pump assembly (complete) is the same for a K7 and an L1?

15100-27G00

greywolf · « **Reply #37 on:** February 22, 2016, 15:02:44 »

That is correct. K4-K6 used the same fuel pump as the Vee. That changed in 2007 and stayed the same from K7 to L1. You could use a Vee pump too though you'd have to splice the R/B and B/W wires together on the older models and connect the wires to the wires on the Wee connector. K2-K3 Vees had separate earth wires for the pump motor and and fuel level sensor. K4 and later Vees combined the earths as did the Wees.

Fat Rat · « **Reply #38 on:** February 22, 2016, 15:33:23 »

This one states 2011 in the title and then 2012 - 2015 in the description

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251992360778?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

greywolf · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2016, 16:50:49 »

That's probably a Glee pump. It has a different part number but that's probably about the the fuel level sender. I'm not sure about the rest of the parts.