No Charge -Stator

[Chalkmyster]

hello all,

After breaking down on the M4 (Newbury...ish) a few weeks ago after the strom decided to give up on my I have finally managed to take a look at investigate further.

After following the service manual (available in downloads section) and with the engine running the stator showed only 2v being generated back to the RR.  This being (low volts on return) being the only potential fault, all other areas checked and did not warrant further investigation.

Not long after the Stator was out looking like this:



Think it's the reason.....

[joderest]

Hmmm, can't seem to see the photo

[MartinW]

Dropbox is unreliable on photos, so either attach it to another post or move it to Flickr instead.

[MartinW]

Done it for you.
 

[greywolf]

There is a little blackening in the usually suspected area. Here is some info on possibly increasing stator reliability.

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,20426.0.html

[Chalkmyster]

Thanks MartinW...never had a problem before but I am now using Tapatalk App.

Thanks once again Greywolf.

[Chalkmyster]

There is a little blackening in the usually suspected area. Here is some info on possibly increasing stator reliability.

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,20426.0.html

Would you recommend changing the RR as well for an upgraded version on my 2013 strom?  If so which one?

The RR seems OK but from reading that link it appears the RR could have been the cause, along with my loom chaffing a few months ago.  One thing I did notice on the 3 channels connection block to the RR and from the stator is the state of the connections probably causing poor connectivity.

[greywolf]

The SH775 has a lower capacity but is less expensive than the SH847. Those seem to be the top choices. I have yet to hear of any problems with the SH775 though. Both are series regulator/rectifiers that will keep the stator cooler and likely extend its life but take a little work to install. There have only been a few riders that have had two stators fail with the stock R/R which is free. Those are the variables. The choice is yours. I used an SH775 to head off problems.

Both have built in connectors so there is no need for the stock AC three contact AC connectors when replacing the R/R. Crimping and soldering on new wires replacing the stock connector will eliminate the suspected connection. The two DC wires on the new R/R are best run to the battery. I used a 30A automotive circuit breaker at the battery for the live wire but a heavy duty fuse holder and 30A fuse an also be used.