Front Sprocket - Is it OK?

[grumps]

As above, can I have any opinions on the state of this sprocket?

Does it need changing? Sorry - best pic I could take!

Thanks

David

[macamx]

Totally knackered and don't waste time and money just changing that sprocket you need to change both sprockets and the chain.

Geoff.

[grumps]

OK. Thanks.

Any recommendations for a quality set?

Then I guess the question is a chain that needs the swingarm taking off or one with a link that needs splitting/peening?

Any help appreciated as I'm used to shaft drives!!!

Cheers

David

[plumber02]

hi my preference would be both JT sprockets an DID X ring chain ,  its just that over the past 15 years or so of running mine and all three of my sons bikes all wr's and a ttr  JT sprockets do seem to have maybe a bit more carbon in the steel , is the rear the same or as bad, plus how far can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket at about 3 oclock on the sprocket, because if its just the front that has been worn you can just change that , it won't last as long but its a short term cheaper way out , if my rear spr. wasn't hooked and my chain was OK I'd just change the front no prob, one thing just from looking at the pics that chain does look f..ked and a drop of lube wouldn't go a stray either

[Joe Rocket]

Looks very dry too Grumps.............;

[grumps]

The chain looks good and I can't see any hooking on the rear sprocket. But, I'm quite up for a complete new set.

[grumps]

Looks very dry too Grumps.............;

Hi Joe, there is a lot of chain lube on the chain and plenty of crap inside the cover!

[plumber02]

have you got a riviter , preferably the slide hammer one I just thing the threaded one can pull too tight and pinch the  stepped o rings on the x ring, might be best to let someone who has done it before go at it , just one last thing I've not changed or even looked at the cogs on my bike but is that nut missing a tab washer or has it got like the KTM's one of those convex domed washers ????

[grumps]

No idea on the washer. The bike has done 18500 miles so I am guessing that the sprocket and chain are originals

A pal has a splitter/riveter. I think he'll be OK to do it. If not I'll get a price off my local one-man-band bike shop.

[grumps]

This looks like the kit?

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-sprocket-kits/bike/Suzuki/2007/DL650-v-strom-k7/d-I-d-oe-chain-and-sprocket-kit-professional-o-ring-vx-series-black-heavy-duty

[Hondaman]

If the chain is knackered fit new sprockets at the same time.
DID x ring are good, any make of steel rear sprocket but I generally fit genuine front sprockets.

[grumps]

If the chain is knackered fit new sprockets at the same time.
DID x ring are good, any make of steel rear sprocket but I generally fit genuine front sprockets.

I can't pull the chain back on the rear sprocket very far and the sprocket looks OK.

But, whilst doing the front I may do the whole set as per the link I posted.

I appreciate that that is not an OEM sprocket but I only do a few thousand miles a year on it so I reckon the D.I.D sprocket will last long enough.

Decisions, decisions.

[Joe Rocket]

Where is the chain setting on the swing arm marks Grumps?

It's the front spocket that does all the work, the teeth are hooked because the chain has stretched and pulls/rides up the teeth.

New set is my view. 

[grumps]

Where is the chain setting on the swing arm marks Grumps?

It's the front spocket that does all the work, the teeth are hooked because the chain has stretched and pulls/rides up the teeth.

New set is my view. 

Hi

There is loads of adjustment left. I've still got 5 marks left on the swing arm.

But, being a bit of a 'belt n braces' sort I'll probably go the whole hog and replace the lot.

It's just a question of which sprockets and chain?

Cheers

[Hondaman]

If the chain is OK, I wouldn't bother changing the front sprocket just for the sake of it.

[grumps]

If the chain is OK, I wouldn't bother changing the front sprocket just for the sake of it.

Wow. I wasn't expecting that!

[hookie]

The front sprocket looks worn but not excessively. If the rear sprocket is about the same and you still have plenty of adjustment left on the s/arm adjusters then you probably have a few 1000 more miles left before replacing the whole lot. A couple more things to check though. Firstly, with the chain correctly adjusted and with the bike on it's centre stand, does it have any tight spots I.e. the adjustment gets noticeably looser or tighter as you rotate the wheel? If there are any tight/loose spots that make the chain either much too tight or loose then replace the whole lot. Secondly, still with the bike on the stand, get hold of one of the chain links that is in line with the swinging arm and if you can easily pull it more than a about 5mm off the sprocket then this would indicate that both chain and sprocket are worn and should be replaced. The general rule is that chain and sprockets should be replaced as a set and it is false economy to replace one of them individually. Most people agree that DID make the best chains and the 'X' ring ones should last longer than the 'O' ring ones because they retain their grease better although they are the same strength. Proper OEM sprockets are best but most expensive. JT sprockets are OK as well. Beware of unbranded ones as they may well be made of inferior steel. Shop around and you should be able to get a DID 'X' ring plus JT sprockets for around £90.

[bigpie]

Loads of life left in that.

[plumber02]

just coming back to the nut thing it says in the book it has a cotter pin/ split pin but if its not a castle nut or got a hole in the shaft it must be a tab washer, on the sprocket subject JT are as good if not better than oem, I bet you're sorry you asked now , 

[hookie]

Clearly not a castellated nut and no signs of a tab washer. Maybe threadlocked? My Vee had no mechanical locking at all. Presumably threadlocked from new, but was only finger tight when I had to remove it when I fitted new sprocket...