Author Topic: DL1000 dyno results (Read 11298 times)

wurzel · « **on:** November 16, 2015, 10:45:10 »

I thought to start a page where we can look at dyno results on our bikes, and see which mods help improve the performance etc.

While this is about the DL1000 abs bike, no reason to get them all in one place from all the stroms.

It will make it easier to compare results, and we all love a print out anyway.

Feel free if not obliged to post yours.

wurzel · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2015, 10:53:13 »

My mods;

Fuel diabolo end can.
X tree
K&N filter, with air box mods
Power comander v
Dyno setup

Hugo Magnus · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2015, 13:41:07 »

Where is the before, as a comparison?please.

wurzel · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2015, 14:03:19 »

I'm afraid I did not get a before, as I had fitted the parts before the bike hit the dyno, so these two sets of lines represent before and after the dyno tuning only, with the red line being the tune results.

I can say that the bike is vastly improved through all the range from stock, both in smoother running ,and performance.

pdc3161 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 18, 2015, 06:51:36 »

Thanks for that is that 65.4 bhp ? Or torcs at the wheel as can't reed the figures
When I get my bike back from shop I'm going to have a power commander put on k&N filter with A new end can will hopefully show figures being done on a rolling rd

wurzel · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2015, 09:24:50 »

It is 86.5 bhp, and 65lbft, but figures will vary from one dyno to the next.

I have ordered the arrow header and servo buddy,and will get a clearer print out when that is done.

The improvements you are doing will make a noticeable difference.

Sea-Strom · « **Reply #6 on:** November 18, 2015, 09:47:18 »

What will your total spend be including all fuel processors, exhaust installation and dynos? I only ask because if power delivery is the goal, out of interest, I wonder how cost including new bike would compare with a bike that had all that oomph and smooth delivery from stock?

wurzel · « **Reply #7 on:** November 18, 2015, 13:00:20 »

Quote removed

Had I gone straight to it, about £1000, but I wanted the bike, and nothing else suited me.

It is a great bike stock, and if you have low rev issues that can get sorted under warranty, or the X-TRE for £100, so it's a cheap and sound bike.

Other makes, with more oomph have their issues too, but at the end of the day I like to customise my machines to how I want them, I build bikes too, it's not about the money for me, it's about what I want in a bike.

If you're angle is purely on the economics of what I am doing, then your asking the wrong man, though undoubtedly the bike, purely in those terms can be deemed a good choice.

trotts · « **Reply #8 on:** November 20, 2015, 09:06:46 »

Quote removed

I agree with Wuzel (that should be my name from deepest Somerset

). I lurk on this great forum as I really want the V strom for my next steed. ( Spring now me thinks !) as most of my biking life has been on big 'Vs' of one sort or another. (Seems the 'wobbles' on some/few of the DL are being sorted.)

I have owned a Suzuki bandit 1250 since 2012 (new pre reg) I put a Pc 'V' on it as soon as I had run the Bike in, also when I had placed after market (Fuel) can on it to replace that Suzuki canon. I have had 4 amazing years on the bandit. With a PC 'v' and a dyno set up you might gain a horse or two (challenge anyone to notice that) BUT you have the most amazing throttle 'response and a crispness' that improves the quality of the ride no end. A Bandit is pretty smooth anyway, but a friend rode mine who owned a bandit before his current Bike. He was blown away by the ride quality. Yes, a PC 'V' is not cheap, but if you are keeping the Bike long term it is a good investment, and of course, if, and when, you sell the bike or trade in, it has a value. I had the same PC III on two Honda Varadero's being a 2007 and a 2010 and sold the Power Commander on Flea bay when I went to the bandit in 2012.

Shop around for best deal on the Power commander. Then shop round for the deal at the Dyno centre. Some will do a deal if you buy the PC from them.

wurzel · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2015, 11:04:15 »

Hello Trotts, and yes for the small power gain the best thing about the pc route is that I does let the motor run to optimum, giving a far nicer throttle response.

pdc3161 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 21, 2015, 06:39:36 »

Hi lads yes I know only a few bhp top end but I'm not bothered about top end fast enough

but it's so I have that a so so smooth acceleration all way through like a train all the way through rev range and no more cutting out when when you accelerate off at junction after coasting up to it it's costing me £480 all in that's pc +rolling rd setups for max performance or economy which ever you want

wurzel · « **Reply #11 on:** December 05, 2015, 16:22:11 »

Had the bike dyno'd , this with air box mod, Arrow collector, fuel diabolo end can sans q tip, k&n filter and pc v.

The bike is a fair bit sharper, and much keener to rev, and really starts to tramp on from low revs, building to a lovely pull through the torque peak,where it feels quite 'urgent', from 5500 _ 75000rpm.

Sam · « **Reply #12 on:** December 05, 2015, 17:05:05 »

Quote from: wurzel on December 05, 2015, 16:22:11

from 5500 _ 75000rpm.

I want a bike that revs to 75000rpm.......

TLPower · « **Reply #13 on:** December 05, 2015, 17:16:56 »

Nearly there.

wurzel · « **Reply #14 on:** December 05, 2015, 17:28:43 »

Quote from: TLPower on December 05, 2015, 17:16:56

Nearly there.

What bike and spec did you have there?

wurzel · « **Reply #15 on:** December 05, 2015, 17:39:35 »

I get the impression that to get any more out of this model would require inlet enlargement, and head work, probably cams.

I'm happy with how it is now, it pulls out of the corners and on overtakes very nicely, first gear does require a restrained hand or it will loop out, short shifting at about 8000rpm the bike heads for the horizon with aplomb through the taller gears.

I have not changed the motors tune, more it gas liberated it's potential by stripping the restrictive gubbins off and getting the fueling right.

TLPower · « **Reply #16 on:** December 05, 2015, 18:04:36 »

It's a 2001 Cagiva Navigator using the original TL1000 engine. The Navigator gave Suzuki the idea for the original Strom

. It's restricted by the small Cagiva airbox. TL1000's of this era made 125-130 wheel horsepower.

The extra is from the airbox and the TL being able to rev higher.

I made my own 50mm full exhaust up to the 2 into 1 when it now goes to 63mm into the 63mm endcan. I haven't dynoed it since the 2 into 1, it feels sharper in the midrange. It was mapped via a power commander. I tried a TL1000 ecu on the dyno it didn't make any power gains but it raised the rev limiter by 400rpm.

As you have found no doubt, short shifting and using the midrange produces sufficient forward motion. I haven't ridden a Veek, but after seeing RoadRockets video after his ecu replacement, the Veek fuels with far more sophistication and smoothness than mine does.

wurzel · « **Reply #17 on:** December 05, 2015, 19:45:21 »

Thank you Eric, that is interesting reading, I will want to do some research on airbox size, and look at the inlet tract side of things too, it will be interesting to see where the power is held back in the DL1000.

TLPower · « **Reply #18 on:** December 05, 2015, 21:55:06 »

I might not have mentioned that my 'bike struggles to pass 40mpg, it managed 45 when riding at a constant 50mph. A good thrashing sees this tumble to 25mpg. The Veek is far more frugal and sophisticated. Ignore the BHP concentrate on the torque.

Quite interesting http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/long-term-Suzuki-v-strom-1000-abs-fine-tuning-power-doing-time

wurzel · « **Reply #19 on:** December 05, 2015, 23:40:56 »

Thank you for the link, I shall read that now.