Quick one on pre load

[madasadad]

My strom is lowered will it effect the operation of the preload knob. There doesn't seem to be any difference between max and min, the suspension is very soft either way.  How do I know if it's working?

[Hondaman]

The preload knob will still work as intended

[madasadad]

It must've seized, but it seems to be working now OK.  max preload necessary to stop my hugger from grounding out!

[Hondaman]

Something doesn't sound right.

[madasadad]

Could it be because its lowered, I've less clearance?

[Hondaman]

Maybe the hugger isn't designed for lowered bike?
Nothing should catch on the full suspension movement, irrespective of preload.

Phil

[mjc506]

How was the bike lowered? If longer doglinks have been fitted, the wheel will travel further up into the bike.

[madasadad]

Yip longer dog links and dropped at the yokes. Doesn't do it with the preload wound on full but doesn't bode well for touring with Mrs Mad and shoes!

[mjc506]

I seem to recall there is a certain amount the wee can be lowered at the back without risk of the wheel touching the underside of the tail section, but obviously this will be less with a hugger fitted.

I'm not sure what to recommend really. You could reduce the amount of bottoming with a stiffer spring (recommended anyway if lots of 2up is planned), but this will reduce sag/increase ride height a touch... A longer/stiffer bump stop would help, but that's not something easily fitted really.

One fix could be to cut away the underside of the tailsection

[greywolf]

One fix could be to cut away the underside of the tailsection

Lower the bike too much and the rear tyre will do it for you.



But seriously, without the hugger, your maximum lowering is about 28mm before bad things can happen. Get rid of the hugger. It doesn't really do much and you don't have room for it.

[madasadad]

Getting rid of the hugger sounds like a plan, however I'm considering putting the original links back in, just to see what I think, I'd maybe take out the seat blocks which I've heard people do.  I was thinking of leaving the drop (15mm) on the front forks, I can't see it making that much of a difference and saves me bringing it back to a dealer.  What do you think?

[greywolf]

Changing the fork tube position can be done by one person with only a 10mm spanner. Just do one side at a time. The other side will hold the bike up. If you're comfortable with the stock links, you can leave the hugger on.

[Joe Rocket]

Just do one side at a time. The other side will hold the bike up.

Is that true GW? Not sure how you can move either fork alone while they're bolted together by the front wheel axle. When I dropped mine by a similar amount both forks had to be 'free'. Or is there something I don't see but you do?  don't know.........  

[greywolf]

I guarantee that's how it works. The upper fork tubes move inside each lower fork leg independently. That's how the suspension works and why a fork brace is a nice addition to keep the lower legs in a fixed relationship. Newbies may be helped by a second person moving the bike being held by the fixed side to get the loose side in the proper position, especially to raise the front end.

[Joe Rocket]

GW. What you're saying is the movement is taken up by sliding the loose fork upper leg one side and using spring compression on the side that's still retained. If so I understand now, thanks.  

[UK_Vstrom650]

That's how I did mine  

When I first got the Glee it felt massive  (had a cruiser previously) so I lowered it for my first winter commute. By the end of winter I went back to normal settings and never felt the need to lower again. Might be worth a try on stock settings to see it you can get on with it.