DL1000 Connectors above/behind radiator

[higgers1]

Hi everybody. Unfortunately, my first post doesn't make very good reading!
I have a problem with my new DL1000 (New Dec 2014) whenever I go out on the bike in the rain, or wash it the turn indicators start to malfunction then give up completely. Also when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd the engine sometimes cuts and won't restart again till I whip the clutch in and use the starter. Both of these problems are absent when in dry conditions. When I took the bike in for its first service I told the dealer about the issues when wet and I was told that another one of their customers was having the same problem with his DL1000 but they had fitted a new indicator relay and that had seemed to work, so they put a new relay on during the service.
it was raining when I rode home from the service and sure enough the indicators stopped working! I booked the bike in for them to strip it down and investigate further but because of commitments I had, I couldn't get it back to the dealer for a week. When I rang the dealer to confirm the booking he told me that the other bloke had rung to say that his relay 'fix' hadn't worked and that there was another 2014 DL1000 that had shown similar symptons when wet and that when they had stripped it they found that two of the electrical connector blocks at the front of the bike (just above/behind the radiator) had water in them and that the worst of the three bikes was so bad that the terminals inside the blocks had corroded & broken and all the wires going into those blocks had welded together!
the bikes need a new wiring harness and because two of us have keyed alike luggage we will need new locks!
The dealer has been told by Suzuki to fill the new blocks with grease and spray with water repellent as a work-around. I'm obviously not very happy because I ride all year round and it can only be a matter of time before it happens again. Given that I am aware of three bikes at my local dealer, I was wondering if there are any other DL1000's out there with the same issues so that Suzuki might find a proper solution

[tallpaul]

Suzuki need to wake up to using waterproof connectors everywhere instead in a few select places. It's not rocket surgery...

Hi, by the way!

[MartinW]

Hi Higgers.

I read something similar recently, so have a search around.

Also, I moved your post from Introductions to the DL1000 section. So please go back to INTRODUCTIONS to say hello properly and then we can leave the technical stuff in the appropriate sections.

[wunwinglow]

I had the same problem, Frasers spotted the corrosion when they did some work on my bike a couple of weeks ago. All the connecters collected there under the tank were affected. That bikes can be sold with this dreadful lack of corrosion protection is scandelous in my view!

ACF50 EVERYWHERE the moment you collect the bike wouldn't do any harm.....


Tim

[SimonW]

...I was wondering if there are any other DL1000's out there with the same issues so that Suzuki might find a proper solution

Not had that problem, but I know exactly the connector you mean. On my bike it sits just poking out over the top of the radiator on the near side, cables facing the direction of travel (so all the road and weather crap will spray up into, effectively, the back of the connector. Stupid design. An extra couple of minutes on the drawing board and 6" more cable and the problem wouldn't exist.

[grumps]

Sorry about this, but....

take it back, hand over the keys and tell them, sort it once and for all or money back please.

That sort of schoolboy error should not affect a multi£££k new motorbike.

How dealers can expect customers to traipse to and from their dealerships with faulty bikes is beyond me.

I'd personally reject the bike as not fit for purpose - you can't trust it to work properly - and unless they sort it pdq send me a cheque.


Probably not the 'correct' answer but shoddy manufacture pis**s me off.

[Locky]

The Wee has the same problem, here's a pic of mine when it had 7000 miles on the clock.

[Oop North John]

The Wee has the same problem, here's a pic of mine when it had 7000 miles on the clock.

Nice to know the Veek has the same great build quality as the old bikes  

Did you take your bike back and tell the dealer to sort it out?

[Locky]

No my bike was used, I checked the connectors a few days after I got it and sorted it out myself. It was less than 2 years old though.

[UK_Vstrom650]

Maybe I'll check my Glee's when I'm off next week?

That just shows poor build quality all round.

[Simmo24]

Gave mine a wash the other day, then checked these connectors. Yep, they were soaking wet so got them all dried out and sprayed liberally with Acf50, will repeat every few weeks or so.  

[listermint]

Shouldn't have to do it every few weeks if you put electrical silicone spray liberally on the contacts

[Simmo24]

From ACF50 website :-

Exposed engine and gearbox cases, swinging arms, forks and other exposed parts will benefit from
ACF-50’s thin film technology by not corroding, will stay looking good and will clean up easily
after a salt laden ride. It is also excellent on black plastic trim without leaving the residue of silicon.
It will protect electrical joints, plugs and components and prevent corrosion causing high resistance
joints. This goes for PCB’s and electronics as well, such as computerised ignition and fuel control
units and their multi pin plugs, while switches, controls and levers will all be lubricated as well as
protected from corrosion. Multi pin plugs and connectors benefit from having ACF-50 applied directly to the contacts.
Under the tank and hidden areas it will last up to a year.

So maybe not every few weeks then. I'll just keep an eye on things.

[Coach]

I have the very 1st version of the DL1000 and,,,, at appx 60,000miles I experienced `flasher' problems. The M/C is so reliable, it was annoying to find it was just corrosion at the points (connectors) behind the radiator ( as in your `headline'). Having fixed everything from the 1st mile in 2002, this was a matter of fitting a new block. Pain in the arse, but the bike now has 103K on it and is my wet weather hack. Still the most reliable bike in my 350K experience...BUT, to hear it happening from such an early stage is concerning (2014 models).
           Having tried and tested the new strom last week, it is better in all areas, but, not more than 10% from my 2002 model. Would I buy one now, Yes I would, but not after already owning one and testing a KTM 1190 in comparison. No contest, the grin factor was immediate when leaving the throttle open in sports mode above 6k rpm. Braking, suspension and HP power differences made the decision easier to put the deposit down on a `Kost To Much' KTM 1190R.
          The new strom will be a better bike than the original 2002 launched version, but, knowing this position behind the radiator was a `water' collection point.....WHY HAVE THEY NOT DEALT WITH IT?

[bigmadstu]

I've also had issues with these connectors. I was having problems switching off the bike, turned key off and removed it but ignition was still live and bike running. Even when it looked like it was off the battery was getting drained. Took it back to my dealer who bypassed the faulty connector to keep me on the road. They then took it up with Suzuki and I'm now waiting to get a new wiring loom and lock set fitted. Dealer has promised me that the new connectors will be properly waterproofed.

I've a pal that's just picked up the desert model and he's put a rubber seal above the radiator to keep the water out of this area.

[bosnjo]

If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.
I personally don't have an issue with this connector, as I live in the area without real winter, snow and salt, and almost without rain. We have 300 sunny days a year, so 99,9% of my riding is in nice dry weather. My bike has been ridden only twice in rain, for not more the 15 minutes. It's parked in my garage and I have 6.000 km's on the clock.

[Simmo24]

If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.

+1 on that please.

[greywolf]

Take the connectors apart, get some ACF-50 on the contacts and put them back together. Then install headlight relays to drop the current the connectors are carrying.

[bigmadstu]

If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.

+1 on that please.

The solution my pal has is an off cut from a rubber pipe seal. It's red rubber and all he could find at the time.    I think we can do better though. I'm planning a mk2 version cut out of some black roofing EPDM. I'll get some photos taken and post them up.

[bigmadstu]

Had a bit go at making my own "flap" to keep crud / water out of the area above the radiator.

Cardboard template made.




Transferred across into EPDM.



Test fitting, looking OK.





Still some holes to make so I can cable tie it to the upper radiator supports. Think I'll make another as I've not cut this particularly straight. Should do the job though.