Author Topic: brake fade  (Read 779 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline kissofdeath

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Feb 2013
  • Posts: 2284
  • Bike: Veek
  • Location: Goole
brake fade
« on: September 08, 2014, 12:59:33 »
OK, so after having a mini heart attack yesterday around the peak district, what are the causes and solutions


Offline mjc506

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 1923
Re: brake fade
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2014, 13:14:01 »
Overheating of the pad/rotor/caliper/fluid etc or maybe a tired braking hand :)

A few ways to minimise brake fade. Different pads, or pad backing material can reduce heat conduction into the brake fluid, which will help prevent it boiling. New/better fluid, or vacuuming it before filling, will reduce the amount of air/water/crap in there, which lowers the boiling point. New fluid, especially if you apply a vacuum to it to remove as much gas as possible, will have a much higher boiling point than that oil dark brown stuff currently in the system :) Not much you can do about cooling the rotors or callipers, but unless they're going blue you've not reached the limit there yet - most fade is down to boiling fluid.

Possibly the best improvement you'll get it better braking technique (I may be teaching you to suck eggs here...)

Rather than braking softly, but for a long time, you are better off (in terms of minimising heat generating) braking hard, but for less time - constant gentle braking will be continuously adding heat into the braking system, and not allowing it to cool. Less frequent, hard, braking will of course add more heat in a shorter time, but only while the brakes are applied. Two affects from this - the most obvious is that the brake system now has time to cool down between applications, the second is that because the heat was added quicker, it will not have had time to migrate completely into the fluid - most heat will still be in the rotor/pads/(and caliper, to a lesser extent). These items are in the airflow and cool quicker than the brake fluid will, as its stuck in a small, well insulated tube...

Of course, there's a compromise to be made between braking hard and less often, and making sure you don't lock a wheel/go too fast to deal with surprises...
Projects:
DL650 engine rebuild: Complete!
Brighter rear indicators]Complete![/url]
Heated mirrors]Complete![/url]
Cruise control/Speed limiter/V-puter]Pending...[/color]

Offline bosnjo

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Aug 2013
  • Posts: 1041
  • Bike: DL1000 L7
  • Location: Portugal
Re: brake fade
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2014, 13:14:04 »
First "suspect" would be brake oil. It needs to be changed every two years as after that it has level of humidity (water) above acceptable and would start to reduce braking power.
Second "suspect", if oil is not older then two years, would be some air in the system that needs to be bled.
Third "suspect" would be brake pads itself. If they are not OEM ones, thay may have cheaper composite that significantly reduce braking power after getting hot.
Fourth, and last "suspect", if non of above applies, are calipers needing service or maybe even rebuild. Maybe there is a lot of road crud accumulated on pistons and one or more are stuck. In worst case scenario, they may need rebuild to change seals or maybe even pistons itself.

Then, there are few other possibilities, like master cylinder, hose rupture etc. but it's early to go that way...
DL1000 2017 white
DL1000 2014 red (sold)
DL650 2012 white (sold)

Offline kissofdeath

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Feb 2013
  • Posts: 2284
  • Bike: Veek
  • Location: Goole
Re: brake fade
« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2014, 15:13:56 »
Thanks chaps, its definitely not the cylinder or pipe rupture as it was OK a little later. prbabley just over heated then, as we were going down hill a lot at the time. good that the missus was with me as I can now justify braided pipes  :)  on top of the new pads  :shy:  :fix:


Offline Juvecu

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: May 2009
  • Posts: 13454
  • Eat, Sleep, Ride, Repeat
  • Bike: '11 Versys 650 & '05 TT-R250
  • Location: Ryton-On-Dunsmore
Re: brake fade
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2014, 15:16:38 »
Lower gear = less braking with the brakes and more with the engine too :thumb:

Good advice from mjc too :clap:
Members Map                                                    Juv's Strom "Restoration" (sold to Mad Phil)
Juv & Locky's Morocco Trip Report                   Juv's Blog

Offline TLPower

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Sep 2013
  • Posts: 6123
  • Bike: ThunderBastard (KTM 1190 ADV)
  • Location: Doncaster
Re: brake fade
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2014, 16:24:40 »
New fluid, pads if needed. Use the 1000cc 6 speed retarder on long hills. :)
To be happy, I don't need private helicopters,a Florida house or a yacht. I'm fine with my motorcycle,a trip to a forest in Bavaria and some lunch money.

Walter Rohrl.

Offline bigpie

  • Site Donator
  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 2714
  • Bike: DL650
  • Location: Rotherham
Re: brake fade
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2014, 16:56:33 »
Check your discs are actually floating and not rubbing all the time.

Offline Holmsey

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Dec 2013
  • Posts: 3464
  • Bike: DL650 L9
  • Location: East London
Re: brake fade
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2014, 17:49:30 »
When we were going down that really steep bit I just shoved it into the lower gear (3rd I was in) as suggested and used 'engine braking' for a controlled descent ..... didn't touch the brakes once on that bit.

It was a pleasure meeting you and your good lady by the way.
Life on two wheels is better than 4 because the wife don't go on two wheels                " I'M FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE "

IBA Member
RBLR 1000 - 2018 -2019
Armistice 1000 - 2018

Offline kissofdeath

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Feb 2013
  • Posts: 2284
  • Bike: Veek
  • Location: Goole
Re: brake fade
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2014, 18:11:11 »
Thanks peeps
 and a pleasure meeting you too  :)