Changing chain and sprockets for first time on 2002 DL1000

[The Big Dog]

Hi everybody need to change chain and sprockets. Any pitfalls to avoid? I've changed these on xtz750 s10 and on various off road bikes so just for any quirks particular to the strom


Thanks in advance for any tips/pointers

[hookie]

No particular pitfalls or quirks. Many Vee owners find that lowering the gearing improves the bike all round with no downsides. Standard should be 17/41.  Either -1 or the gearbox sprocket (16) or +2 on the rear wheel (43).  Most owners would suggest avoiding cheap chains and use DID chains and preferably the X ring type. When you take the front sprocket cover off give everything a really good clean, along with the guides on top of and under the swinging arm. Also take the clutch push rod out, clean, re-grease and replace. When the front cover is off the piston in the clutch slave cylinder may work it's way out a bit and you'll need to push it back before putting the cover back. Best of luck.

[bigpie]

Look up how to use the rivet tool and don't try and work it out, if you don't know already. I ruined my tool and master link last week on my first go. Was quite straight forward up to that point. Loosen front sprocket nut before cutting the chain. I had one foot on the rear brake and the other pushing the wrench. 145Nm on the 650 so it is quite tight.

[Juvecu]

I think that torque figure is wrong in the manual, I do mine up at 100 or 110Nm, IIRC.

[Jacko]

Seems high. There's a lock tab anyway, or at least there should be.

[hookie]

According to the Suzuki manual, the figure for the front sprocket is 115 N-m and is says to use thread lock with no mention of a tab washer.

[greywolf]

The 650 and 1000 are set up differently for some odd reason though the nut is the same part on both. The 650 has a bent tab lock washer and the 1000 has a thick plain washer. The 650 has a torque spec of 145Nm while the 1000's is 115Nm. I think the 650's book spec is crazy. The 650 puts out less power and has nut locking mechanism about as sure as can be imagined. I see absolutely no reason why 115Nm isn't a better value for it too.

[bigpie]

So I need to fold a tab over on the washer?

[greywolf]

So I need to fold a tab over on the washer?

That is the way the 650 is set up. It has a thin keyed washer that matches the splines on the shaft so the washer can't turn on the shaft. Then one edge of the washer is bent against a flat on the nut so the nut can't turn. I got two or three uses out of  washer by flattening and re-bending before having to replace it but it's cheap enough to get a new one every time.

[bigpie]

I best whip the cover off at the weekend and get it bent over.

[patropsley]

And good old u tube - if only for confirmation on what you already know. Fairly straight forward but the best bit is giving some tlc to the back wheel when you take it off- mine looked brand new when it went back    on #cleaningobsessive

[mjc506]

I had no end of trouble with my washer. It seemed to actually help the sprocket nut loosen. Something weird was happening down there though - I lost drive coming back from Wales one time - turns out all the threads in the sprocket nut were gone, and the sprocket had simply slipped off of the splines!

I've since emulated the DL1k setup, just with the sprocket nut (no washer) and a touch of locktite. No problems since.

[greywolf]

Better to lose the threads on the nut than on the shaft. Using the ridiculously high manual torque spec for the Wee may have been part of the problem.

[mjc506]

Indeed. That nut is certainly a bit easier to replace

[Juvecu]

That comment carries much more weight than it normally would because I've read your engine rebuild thread before

[Mannakin]

Use a zip tie or two to tie the clutch lever fully back to the handle bar - this will usually prevent the piston from working it's way out after you undo the master cylinder.

[The Big Dog]

Thanks for all the guidance blokes, completed this yesterday all looking good bike felt more responsive but probably more in the mind than anything else. Whilst giving it a clean noticed that the slight leak on the fork seals which was an advisory on the mot last week had turned into a raging torrent. So took forks off last night, all went well except one bloody awful allen bolt that won't come out. Spoke to my local bike mechanic (too scared and inexperienced to do the fork seals myself) who said he'd sort that out so hopefully back on the road early part of next week.