Author Topic: gear change issue (Read 6089 times)

gixerpaul · « **on:** July 17, 2014, 23:26:07 »

I'm sure there have been many discussions about noisy gear changes on the 650, so forgive me if I repeat previous posts.
When riding the dl gear changes are generally smooth but when stationary and selecting either 1st or 2nd gear from neutral it struggles. You hear and feel the gears clunking, trying to engage. Not a little bit but to the extent I think it may damage the box. I've topped oil to max level and adjusted push rod on to clutch but still the same. Is it possible the clutch is sticking. Any feed back would be very much appreciated.

Juvecu · « **Reply #1 on:** July 17, 2014, 23:32:27 »

The chain is not too tight perhaps?

gixerpaul · « **Reply #2 on:** July 17, 2014, 23:52:41 »

I checked the chain tension, that seems fine. I done a search on the site, think I best strip and clean the actuator 1st and see how things go.

Juvecu · « **Reply #3 on:** July 18, 2014, 09:55:50 »

Also check the angle of the bit that goes on the gear shift shaft splines. If it's out a bit far then gear changes will be difficult.

greywolf · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2014, 13:33:20 »

A blast of WD40 under the rubber covers on the gear change mechanism to flush out crud followed by some aerosol grease or chain lube for longer lasting lubrication often helps.

gixerpaul · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2014, 16:16:02 »

Well I put the bike on its centre stand and removed and cleaned up the actuator. Had to hunt for a few of the ball bearings that popped out, but all back together after a good flush and a little grease. Still have the same problem.
What I did notice was when on the centre stand and ticking over, if I put it in either 1st or 2nd not only does it clunk into gear the back wheel also wants to slowly turn. I can stop the wheel with my hand but can feel a bit of resistance. This doesn't happen in any other gears.

greywolf · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2014, 16:28:47 »

It's normal to feel some resistance. In fact, especially if the oil is cold, a running engine will spin the rear wheel nicely with the clutch lever pulled back. The fluid friction of the oil between the plates will transfer energy. That's easier to do in lower gears that have a greater mechanical advantage.

If you are concerned the clutch isn't releasing fully, a basic adjustment is the setting of the push rod free play. With a cold engine, release the lock nut in the center of the actuator and unscrew the adjuster a couple of turns to guarantee some free play. Then lightly screw the adjuster back in until you feel contact as the adjuster screw contacts the push rod. Then back the adjuster screw one quarter turn to establish the proper free play for the rod to expand as the engine heats. Hold the adjuster screw in position with the screwdriver and tighten the lock nut.

gixerpaul · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2014, 16:37:07 »

Yes I've adjusted the push rod as you described. Will try it again when I get five minutes. Making sure I do it from cold. I m thinking maybe dumping the oil, I must have done nearly 3000 miles since a change.

MartinW · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2014, 18:40:43 »

Quote from: "gixerpaul"

...on the centre stand and ticking over, if I put it in either 1st or 2nd not only does it clunk into gear the back wheel also wants to slowly turn...

That's normal, mine does it too. Cold oil friction between clutch plates. My Brother has a Sprint ST that will spin the back wheel much faster than my Strom does.

Juvecu · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2014, 23:14:47 »

By the sounds of it you cleaned the clutch actuator and not the gear change linkages. I thought you were going to clean the gear change linkages, hence the comment about the angle of the lever that fits on the splines.

gixerpaul · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2014, 23:28:18 »

My mistake, misread some of the points listed. Will clean the gear linkage up when I get 20 minutes.

Just concerns me that if I go through the box with the clutch in, without releasing the lever I get relatively smooth changes. But when releasing the lever in neutral and then selecting 1st/2nd it struggles.

Juvecu · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2014, 23:39:06 »

At least they are an easier job than the clutch actuator

gixerpaul · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2014, 18:20:41 »

I noticed today, when getting on the bike for the 1st time each day the 1st few minutes of neutral to 1st gear changes are relativly smooth. Once the engine has pumped oil around it then cluncks and fights getting in gear.
possible oil change required? or just the metal parts expanding from the heat .

I've cleaned the gear change linkage which was relatively clean anyway.

Parademic · « **Reply #13 on:** July 19, 2014, 21:07:11 »

I had the exact same problem...

Tried lubing everything, and even replaced the chain (it had some stiff links). In the end, I full oil and filter change following an engine cleaner and it's never done it again since...

At the time, I was worried that I'd break the gear pedal off trying to get it either into first or out of it. The only thing different on mine was that neutral was also a pain to get... I can still feel the bruise on the bridge of my left foot from trying to click it up!

Gareth

gixerpaul · « **Reply #14 on:** July 19, 2014, 22:06:44 »

Cheers for posting Gareth, what engine cleaner did you run through your bike? was it just an additive type of thing to run with your existing oil before dumping? or was it a case of fully draining the oil and running a full capacity of engine flush.

cabra · « **Reply #15 on:** July 20, 2014, 01:04:29 »

Silkolene comp 4 full synthetic oil. Go on spoil it, it's worth it. You can also extend your service intervals to 5000 miles.

Parademic · « **Reply #16 on:** July 20, 2014, 08:04:27 »

I can't actually remember Paul. It was from Halford (I'm ashamed to admit) and u just added it to a warm engine, ran for 5 mins kwhilst jumping through gears) then drained it... I left it dripping in the garage over night and put oil back in the next day.
Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Gareth

gixerpaul · « **Reply #17 on:** July 20, 2014, 10:51:36 »

Only flush in halfords is for car engines, could possibly make the clutch slip. Wurth do one for bikes. I've read on the web lots of people saying no to flushing a bike engine due to wet clutch and possibility of disturbing oil seals, many say a double oil change is beter. Will have a think about it.

Juvecu · « **Reply #18 on:** July 20, 2014, 11:04:51 »

I wouldn't flush an engine on a bike with any additive. How much use can it be if it's in there for 5 minutes anyway?

What I have done in the past is put diesel truck oil (Shell Rimula) in my bike and ran that for a service interval. Diesel truck oils have much more detergents (not soap, just cleaning agents) in them than you have in the oils we'd normally put in bikes and even our cars. The detergents help to loosen any deposits in the engine and keeps it in the oil so it doesn't go stick somewhere else and so that you can drain it out with the oil. I made sure to get in some long rides so the engine can be at full operating temperature for long times to help the detergents (at least it made sense in my head and it was an excuse to go ride

)

I have no idea if it even worked so the placebo effect could've been exactly the same as the Halfords oil additive

Parademic · « **Reply #19 on:** July 20, 2014, 11:39:30 »

Juvecu... your probably right. I suspect the oil change made the biggest difference. I should image that with the strom having a "wet clutch" there would be a few engine cleaners that aren't so good???

All I know for sure is that it fixed my problem and it's not come back. I have however noticed that the more miles I do between oil changers, the stiffer the gears become (never as bad as the first time though).

Gareth