Author Topic: new strom cuts out/backfires/stalls on pull away (Read 67680 times)

oddbod · « **Reply #260 on:** January 25, 2015, 20:01:03 »

Cheers bosnjo.
Will wait fir greywolf or if he can't confirm will go to my useless dealer and get them to order for me.

I have a funny feeling the randomness cld be down to the TPS as happened so many times after the bike has been on a run or thoroughly warmed up via riding rnd town. Apparently that's classic TPS issue I read somewhere.

Oop North John · « **Reply #261 on:** January 25, 2015, 20:20:05 »

Looking on another forum, these are the hits for p/n 13580-27G21:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/search.php?searchid=9755241

bosnjo · « **Reply #262 on:** January 25, 2015, 21:31:35 »

Now, the direction this thread is taking makes me think a lot about TPS. On wunwinglow's bike they replaced whole throttle body assembly, which means TPS was replaced as well. Greywolf is calling our attention to something that may be final answer.
Are we getting closer?

bosnjo · « **Reply #263 on:** January 25, 2015, 21:35:15 »

Odbod, I've just confirmed on parts list, and all three models internationally, E03, E33 and E28, of DL1000AL4, use the same part number for TPS. That is, the one I mentioned above.

oddbod · « **Reply #264 on:** January 25, 2015, 21:42:10 »

Excellent Bosnjo.
I will get one ordered and either fit it myself or have the poxy dealer fit it.
if this finally fixes the issue then, wham, we're laughing!!
Cheers for the part no's

bosnjo · « **Reply #265 on:** January 25, 2015, 22:00:48 »

Cheers for that, odbod. Imagine, you change TPS and the problem's gone. Well, in that case you and greywolf deserve the statues in the Suzuki's garden in Japan.
Or, at least, if you ever come to south of Portugal, I can buy you pint or two...

oddbod · « **Reply #266 on:** January 25, 2015, 22:22:47 »

Haha.
I think if it is the TPS then the credit wld be mainly greywolfs but thanks would also go to all the input from everyone on this thread as well.
I would still hold you to that pint though if I was passing through the south of Portugal. Might also be cheeky and ask for some peri peri chicken as well haha.
Had some in Albafuri a few years back. Delicious or what!!!!
Will keep you posted

greywolf · « **Reply #267 on:** January 25, 2015, 22:27:06 »

A TPS problem will only kill the engine at idle. It won't cause the dreaded stumble around 3000rpm. That's a fuel map issue.

oddbod · « **Reply #268 on:** January 25, 2015, 22:44:28 »

Thanks Greywolf. I've had the dreaded stumble at 2600rpm sorted with the remap already.
Its only the random cut out/splutter at idle that pains me now.
If I can get that eliminated then I'll be over the moon. In every other area the bike is exceptional and a real joy.

wunwinglow · « **Reply #269 on:** January 27, 2015, 12:08:14 »

Just to confirm, I've had no stalls or farts or backfires sine the throttle body assembly was swapped, and I've been riding every day since the swap. so yes, maybe it is the TPS, as that was part of the exchange. Getting happier as each day goes by, but not ecstatic, not just yet.

It never rains but... I tried to switch the TC to 2 this morning, and the handlebar switch has frozen up!! Opening it up at lunchtime break, no doubt to see a heap of green fungus. Corrosion control on these bikes is rubbish!

Tim

bosnjo · « **Reply #270 on:** January 27, 2015, 12:24:24 »

In my case, changing from TC1 to TC2 gave me smooth ride through roundabouts at 2000 rpm without surging. I'll explain whole story:
Got the bike from dealer, all stock. While I was waiting for bike to get ready, my Arrow exhaust had arrived already (to my house). The day I took the bike from the dealer (all stock), I didn't go straight home, but rather took a longer ride (as you'd expected). TC was on 1. I noticed big problem on roundabouts. If I did it in 2nd, it had to be with slipping the clutch through all roundabout, otherwise it would be with surging all the time and a bit difficult to control the bike. If I did it in 1st, it'd be well above 3000 rpm, no surging but the bike was so "nervous" as you'd expect any bike to be in 1st.
Then I installed my Arrow and noticed big improvement on roundabouts. I could go in 2nd and sometimes, just sometimes, it'd be neccessary to slip the clutch. Then, one day I got out to go to work and the sky was cloudy. As it almost never rains here in south, I went on. Then, out of nowhere, heavy rain. The only thing I could do is to switch to TC2 and be careful, as I have very small experience riding in rain (as I said, it almost never rains here). Entered first roundabout and as I was careful, it had to be quite slower then with dry road. I immediately noticed big difference. Even going slower on that roundabout there was no need to slip the clutch. Looked at rpm and it was on 1900. Bike was as smooth as silk.
I have never put it back to TC1 again. Been hapy ever since.

oddbod · « **Reply #271 on:** January 27, 2015, 12:52:56 »

Good news wunwinglow (except the switch)!!!!

Fingers crossed this continues for you!!!!!!

wunwinglow · « **Reply #272 on:** January 27, 2015, 14:12:54 »

Yes, hopefully this pointing at least vaguely at the TPS!!

I've just tried to open the left switch cluster, but I couldn't get it completely off as the stupid way the wires are routed, from the rocker switch over the front of the handlebars, it looks like you have to take the whole clutch lever assembly off as well, otherwise you cannot open the top and bottom of the cluster enough to get it off!! If they routed then BACKWARDS, the whole assembly would come off in a second. Bloddy value engineers saving 2 seconds on the production line probably...

Anyway, no corrosion at all as far as I could see, but by really waggling the Select switch, it eventually 'unclicked' and popped back up to its normal position. Turned on the ignition, and after a bit more waggling, the display unlocked and I was able to change the TC to 2, so will report back tomorrow if this improves things any more.

It felt like the switch moulding was actually jamming against something, so when I have a couple of hours to take the clutch lever all off, I'll investigate further. I'm wondering if the plastic they have used for the button has swelled a bit from the solvents in WD40 and/or ACF50? That's what it felt like, anyway.

But no corrosion. So that's good then.....

Tim

Noli non iligitimes carbor undem est! (Or something like that. I suddenly have the feeling a Centurion is breathing down my neck, gladius drawn.....)

Timmo · « **Reply #273 on:** January 27, 2015, 19:04:21 »

sounding good,fingers crossed for you.

greywolf · « **Reply #274 on:** January 27, 2015, 21:29:10 »

The switch body often has a tab that fits in a hole in the bar. If yours is like that and the two are not aligned, it would cause the problem you described.

wunwinglow · « **Reply #275 on:** January 27, 2015, 23:59:17 »

Hi Greywolf, thanks, But I found that locator and was able to disengage that. The problem lies with the cable to the rocker switch which comes into the front of the bottom half, but then runs up and is connected to the rocker switch in the top half. Once the two bolts have been removed from the bottom,, you can wiggle apart the casings and then open them like the jaws of a snake, but the cable mentioned above limits how far apart you can get the casings, and as you seperate them, the clutch lever hinge casting stops you opening them any further anyway. .

Ride home on TC2 was fine, but I'm not sure there was any difference between the same journey on TC1. But no nonsense still. So allowing myself a little hope that things are now OK....

More soon!

Tim

wunwinglow · « **Reply #276 on:** February 02, 2015, 13:39:04 »

I had a bit of a blast to Abergavenny and back to Bristol, had a hoot, so I'm calling my bike sorted. There were none of the original issues, the only thing left being this irritating rev drop, which now happens very distinctly when the bike is NOT under any load, trickling down to a stop, between 2nd and first gear. I can make it do this repeatedly, so I can avoid it, but I suspect this is a deliberate 'feature' in the system, probably to do with saving the Planet. I'd like it removed, it is potentially dangerous, but all the other other problems I had seem to have gone. The bike is now a pleasure to ride, I don't feel like it is about to die on me all the time, it pulls cleanly, has not coughed or backfired once, and my fuel economy is creeping up again, no doubt because I am happier running the bike in lower revs, ie 4 thousand, where the torque is at its maximum. Before, it would pull fine at this point, but the moment the revs started to drop a bit, it would go all vague.... Not now. I can change gear cleanly, most of the time, because I can now control the revs to what I want, rather than wherever the problem, whatever it was, left them floating about.

I'll speak with Frasers, obviously it would be good to know what precisely was at fault, but bottom line, I'm a happy bunny now, I have the bike I knew was there all along. Just sorry it took so long to nail.

To anyone else with the same issues, Frasers swapped out the ENTIRE throttle assembly, with the same parts on their demonstrator. I'll find out if they have put my old parts back in their bike, or, put in a new set. I wouldn't want a demonstrator with a known duff carb set in it! I'll pass on any details I find out, if anything.

So:

!

Tim

MartinW · « **Reply #277 on:** February 02, 2015, 15:48:35 »

Let's hope the party is not too early

wunwinglow · « **Reply #278 on:** February 02, 2015, 20:36:04 »

After 11 and a half months, I think I've been patient enough! I've been riding it now for a while, and it has been consistent, so I'm happy. I will be watching it like a hawk though, of course!

Tim

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #279 on:** February 02, 2015, 22:25:26 »

:happy-jumpeveryone:

Glad it's sorted. Let's hope anyone else who's had this issue can get a similar fix