Author Topic: Disappearing bolt (Read 1480 times)

Holmsey · « **on:** March 22, 2014, 18:25:42 »

Hi

I will be adjusting my chain again tomorrow after I left it a little bit too slack according the workshop

.

I have noticed that the bolt has disappeared into the nut on the sprocket side and is protruding on the opposite side, this I noticed the first time I adjusted the chain but didn't think too much about it, but as I need to loosen them again

shall I knock the bolt through and even up the nuts on the thread or does it matter as long as the wheel stays on

?.

Is there a hard and fast rule.

greywolf · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2014, 19:24:39 »

Are you talking about the #7 axle? If so, there is no nut on the sprocket side. It's the head of the axle/bolt. Hold it in place and loosen the nut on the other side before adjusting the chain slack. A little loose is good insurance against being too tight, which can be very damaging to the chain and bearings, including one in the engine. A good idea to prevent the nut from galling to the axle is to take the nut off and put some anti seize or copper grease on the threads, then torque to 80Nm to account for the lubrication effect.

Vees, Glees and Wees have the same rear axle setup except some countries and years have differing axle nut locking types.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2014, 19:31:54 »

Haha! By the time I'd found the fiche pic and come back to this thread, GW had beaten me to it!

Jacko · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2014, 20:24:27 »

GW, the torque value for a dry nut is 100nm isn't it? I torque mine up to 80nm with copper grease on the threads, I fairly sure of it.

greywolf · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2014, 20:35:43 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

GW, the torque value for a dry nut is 100nm isn't it? I torque mine up to 80nm with copper grease on the threads, I fairly sure of it.

That's correct. I relied on memory rather than doing a conversion as I'm used to posting 58lb-ft instead of the stock 72.5lb-ft. I'll change it.

Holmsey · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2014, 10:25:49 »

Thanks for the input ... Just tightened the chain and realised this was a stupid question.... I was assuming there were 2 nuts and 1 bolt but have now realised I am in error

I'll take a quick slap to the head for silliness

Better get the basics first before I move on to more challenging jobs like riding it

Thanks for not mocking a newbie

Jacko · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2014, 11:16:42 »

Moron. ;)

Jacko · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2014, 11:20:08 »

I have turned my axle bolt around, so that the nut is on the sprocket side, this makes it easier to refit after removing the wheel as the brake caliper holder is fed in earlier, before the wheel. It's just a big bolt.

Holmsey · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2014, 12:09:22 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

I have turned my axle bolt around, so that the nut is on the sprocket side, this makes it easier to refit after removing the wheel as the brake caliper holder is fed in earlier, before the wheel. It's just a big bolt.

removing wheels ?? :hyper: , I haven't even thought about that yet

I might have to think about changing the brakes soon as they look a bit low, Is that easy enough ?, I have done them on a scooter and I take it the principle is the same.

greywolf · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2014, 12:54:09 »

I doubt if your brakes are really low with that mileage unless you or a previous owner have been riding with the brakes on. The pad material is bonded to the backing, not riveted. You can go down to a few millimeters as long as the pads are wearing evenly. There is only about 1/4" on new pads.

Holmsey · « **Reply #10 on:** March 23, 2014, 13:01:16 »

Ahhhh thanks GW .... I wasn't thinking in those terms ....... 'Everyday is a school day'

Jacko · « **Reply #11 on:** March 23, 2014, 19:32:57 »

I've had about 2mm on my front zx6 pads for about 2 years, I've pads waiting to go on but they just don't seem to wear.

Removing and refitting the wheels is easy stuff mate, methodical and steady and you can't go wrong. I used to be the same, then changing rubber for trackdays had me taking wheels out all the time, got to the point where I could do it without thinking then wondered later if I'd put everything back properly as couldn't remember doing any of it.

Holmsey · « **Reply #12 on:** March 23, 2014, 20:14:32 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

I've had about 2mm on my front zx6 pads for about 2 years, I've pads waiting to go on but they just don't seem to wear.

Removing and refitting the wheels is easy stuff mate.

Hope that's the same with my pads

Speaking of removing wheels, I had an advisory with my front Tyre they said it was wearing on one side .... Is that normal?

Locky · « **Reply #13 on:** March 23, 2014, 20:37:48 »

Try to find a member who lives local and is good with the spanners , it's a great way to learn .

Jacko · « **Reply #14 on:** March 23, 2014, 20:50:13 »

A front wearing unevenly usually means the rider is trail braking into bends. Wear on one side more than the other means that the rider comfort brakes more into left or right handers depending on which they're less comfortable with.

It could also mean the rider is very confident into, say, right handers and really hangs it out, but potters around left handers like a granny.

Holmsey · « **Reply #15 on:** March 23, 2014, 21:11:11 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

A front wearing unevenly usually means the rider is trail braking into bends. Wear on one side more than the other means that the rider comfort brakes more into left or right handers depending on which they're less comfortable with.

It could also mean the rider is very confident into, say, right handers and really hangs it out, but potters around left handers like a granny.

I have only owned her 3 months so hopefully its not me

They are wearing on the near side and I do go round to the left like a granny

Jacko · « **Reply #16 on:** March 23, 2014, 22:04:07 »

OK, left/granny would point to wear on the right (assuming you sling it on its ear through right handers). If it is you it's the first one, comfort braking mid-bend (left, because you're not so confident on lefts), do you do this?

I'm not as confident with lefts, I think it's partly because I can't see as much around them when hugging the white line as I can with right handers hugging the verge. But riding in Europe doesn't cure this for me, I think we just have a preference and that's it.

greywolf · « **Reply #17 on:** March 23, 2014, 22:33:07 »

When riding in a straight line on a level surface like a car park, remember roads are crowned for water run off, does letting go of the handlebars for a second cause the bike to veer off line? If so, the rear axle may not be at a proper right angle to the frame.

Juvecu · « **Reply #18 on:** March 23, 2014, 23:04:15 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

...got to the point where I could do it without thinking then wondered later if I'd put everything back properly as couldn't remember doing any of it.

Thought I was the only one that this happened to

It happens so often I'm learning to trust my auto-pilot setting now

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #19 on:** March 24, 2014, 15:59:26 »

"couldn't remember doing any of it."
Face it, that's an age thing. Tell me you've never found yourself at the top/bottom of the attic/cellar steps and suddenly asked yourself
a) How did I get here?
b) Why did I come up/down here?
It' usually when I've just locked the garage (go on then, shed) doors and gone to wash my hands. That "did I tweak that last pinch bolt up?" nagging feeling.