I do my own.
Breaking the beads can be a pain. I made my own bead breaker, but c-clamps work (or another bike
+ sidestand etc). Once part of the bead is broken, the rest comes off OK. Break both beads.
Tyre levers to get the old tyre off (or cut it off, but most modern tyres are a bit tough). Use protectors if you don't want to scratch your rim. Make sure to push the other side of the tyre as deep as possible into the rim well - this makes it much easier to unmount the tyre. Generous use of a lubricant (window cleaner is great) helps too.
New tyre on... place rim on the ground, lube rim and new tyre bead generously, and 'throw' the tyre down onto the rim at an angle. If you're lucky it'll all go on first time. If not, push the remainder on with brute force
Once you've got both beads onto the rim, seating the bead is next. Which can be difficult.
Two general methods - safe, and quick. For both methods, remove the valve core - this allows more air in quicker to seat the bead. Yes, the tyre will lose pressure after, but then refit the core and reinflate. You will not seat the bead with the core in.
Safe includes compressed air (lots of it - the fuel station pumps are crap, you need a good amount of compressed air at once) and maybe some help with a ratchet strap. Place the ratchet around the circumference of the tyre, and tighten. This pulls the middle of the tyre towards the rim, squeezing the sidewalls out towards the bead. This is fiddly. But, if you take your time (and use lots of lube) it works OK. I've successfully seated road tyres using this method with a small handpump.
However, my preferred method is quicker and more exciting (read: dangerous). Again, lots of lube on both beads. You will also need a cheapy can of aerosol (or lighter fluid, or something sprayable and flammable) and a lighter (preferably one with a long 'head') Push one bead on as much as possible from the other side, then loads of spray into the tyre. Leave a trail of 'spray' up the sidewall a little way too. Make sure you've got your boots/gloves on. Light the sidewall trail. The tyre may pop onto the bead now, but if it doesn't, stamp on the tyre to allow the flame/oxygen in. Get it right and the tyre will pop onto the bead and jump into the air a few inches.
So: Lots of lubricant is key. Warm tyres helps quite a lot too. Remove disk rotors/sprockets (yes, its a pain, but if you don't you'll likely bend something), and work somewhere soft (grass/carpet) to prevent scratches. If the tyre's not coming off/going on and you're about to bend a lever, you're doing something wrong. Make sure the other side of the bead is pushed into the rim well. It'll be hard work the first (few) times, but I can now change a tyre without taking it to a garage
Balancing... I don't bother too much. I static balance on the bike (bike on the center stand, front end lifted for the front wheel, calipers and sprokets not fitted). Put the wheels on the axles, make sure nothings touching. If the wheel doesn't turn, the heaviest part may already be at the bottom, but otherwise, induce some vibration - whack the wheel or bike to make it vibrate a bit - this helps overcome any friction in the bearings. And small amounts of weight on alternate sides of the wheel. I don't bother with dynamic balancing, or spending too much effort on static balancing. The Wee isn't fast enough, and the roads are too bad to bother!