Rear LED strip light install

[bigpie]

You can buy flashers off ebay quite cheap, but they don't look like they stop the flashing and just remain on after a few seconds. Which will drive people behind you insane I would imagine.

http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/motflash.html and looks to do the trick. Shouldn't be more than a fiver of components on some strip board.

I'd want to go a bit further and only enable the flashing at over 20mph or so.

BTW I don't think it is legal in the UK.

EDIT***
Also done this now, with some Maplins Waterproof led strips.

No idea what it looks like in the light of day yet and the wiring isn't that neat, as I did it in the dimly lit garage

EDIT 2: Finished the LED install in the topbox

[Rixington43]

Holy zombie thread but I'm about to embark on this mod myself, got some red LEDs as the reflector lenses look a bit less tinted than the tail light and I want to startle but not blind following drivers. I intend to wire through from inside the top box and then seal the holes and have a flying lead to a waterproof connector in the side panel since my top box never comes off.
How did people's installs last in terms of heat and wiring?

[Lincsman]

Be interesting to follow how you get on with this.

[Rixington43]

Well I spent a good few hours on this yesterday and I'm pretty pleased with the results for about a £20 outlay. Here's what I did:

1 - Remade the white reflector sheets in 3M Diamond Grade red tape. The surface needs to sit flat against the top box body for the waterproof LED strips to fit so I had to enlarge the cutouts around the mounting posts. Drilled a 7mm hole for a 5mm wiring grommet directly below the mounting post hole to shield from any potential water ingress from the top of the reflector.
2 - Installed a strip of 9 red waterproof LEDs. I soldered my own cables onto these and then fed through from the outside to reduce the number of connectors in the chain back to the bike.
3 - 7mm hole and wiring grommet in the recess on the top box, this stops the wires getting in the way and also helps seal against water as the cable is an extremely tight fit through the grommet and the output points downhill.
4 - Wires run and clipped around the box lid and then spliced into bullets to join the two. Connectors taped into the recess inside the top box.
5 - Cable outlet runs tight to the box and then fits through the gap to the mount plate just nipping it tight enough to stop it coming loose. When touring my tent is strapped here so the cable needed to be flat against the box. The white mark is from my tent bag so I know the cable won't be pinched.
6 - Cable enters just above the exhaust mounting bracket through a small hole in the side fairing. I have the cable doing a loop down the side of the bike and then back up to the connectors to the tail light wiring. I had planned to use a Tyco connector but it won't fit through the fairing hole by the exhaust mount so taped bullets it is.
7,8,9 - The final effect. It's not insanely bright but is nicely balanced with the existing brake light. The LEDs are faster to respond which buys stopping distance for the vehicle behind and especially high lelvel vehicles such as vans and lorries for whom the top box might partially obscure my tail light when in a queue of tightly packed vehicles. The extra light also prevents any confusion if someone looks away just as you brake and doesn't see the change in your rear light.

* Yes removing the top box will now be a 2 minute instead of 2 second job but it only really ever comes off for the twice yearly full detail so I'm happy enough with the outcome vs having a waterproof connector on the outside of the bike.