Clutch Basket Damper Modification

[sharealike]

VStrom 1000 and SV1000 are not the only bikes suffering with problems in the clutch basket.

I put this together to explain. Seems to be a popular bike with those who moved on from the VStrom.

[nick11175]

Just had this mod done on my 2007 1k GT.
Literally makes it a different bike, much smoother, quieter, more rideable at speed due to the bike not shaking about so much.

The cost of this when weighed up against new exhaust, remap, etc is reasonable andhas made the biggest difference of any chang ever to my bike.

If you think you may want this done, and are in Kent, I will consider letting anyone have a little ride. Also my mechanic can install and service the bike and do throttle boddies for a really good price. I was shocked to pay less than 170 for all the work, and got. bike back that is like a new machine to me.

[AndyJOxford]

I have to admit that I was a bit sceptical about this mod, but I have bitten the bullet and had it done.......
What a difference, amazing!! The bike is a different beast, smooth through the whole range, serious torque a proper big V twin!!

All I can say is money extremely well spent, if you do nothing else to the bike do this!! Many thanks to John for his work

Andrew, Oxfordshire

[HAMMERHEAD]

Just had my basket from John abot 3 weeks ago.  By far the best money I spent so far.  
  I was seriously considering getting rid of my bike in a few months time but after having the basket mod done ny John...  NO WAY...     Its totally transformed the bike, its soo smooth and quiet now.  No more feathering the clutch all the time and no more juddering on take off.   In the last 3 weeks I've done double the ammount of miles on the bike than the past 18 months.  Love riding it now.
      Cheers John.  What a gent aswell..  

[tojjer]

My K3 Strom had the dreaded chudder between 2700 - 4000 rpm.
I read about the Sharealike modification on here and another forum. I have to admit, I was a little dubious at first but bit the bullet and got my son in law to strip the bike down for me following the instructions here  http://www.vibefreev.com/downloads/Clutch_Basket_Replacement_GB.pdf    
 It took him just about an hour so nothing too drastic. Posted the basket off on the Monday morning, and it was back with me fully modified by the Friday lunchtime.
I have got to say, the difference is noticeable immediately. Have only taken the bike on a short trip to try it out, but it feels so smooth now through the whole rev range.
John is an absolute gent to deal with, very helpful if you want something explained also.
This modification is worth every penny if yours has that awful vibration around that rev range.

Providing it's not pouring down, I'm off for a longer ride tomorrow.

Toj

[sharealike]

Happy New Year - I know its the 14th already but still 23/24ths of 2016 left.

Just a line to confirm that clutch basket modification work is still up and running here in the UK.

Thought it best as half the inquiries these days ask "are you still doing them?". YES and there is also news on the Idle Hammer damper for the crankshaft. And besides holiday and other matters I've had my head down prototyping. Been approached by owners of other bikes from four further manufacturers with wet clutch problems.

[Yoyo]

Glad to hear you are still going strong and looking in other directions too. I've put 3k on my Vee and what a transformation, thanks for the fantastic job

[IanP]

Hi John
Just bought a K6 Vee, which I now realise has the clutch vibration/chudder.
Now I'm only slightly mechanical minded, how easy a job is it to remove the clutch?
Hate to ask but how much is the repair?
Do you offer a ride in service   
Cheers
Ian

[sharealike]

A while since I visited this thread with any news so here we go.

I'm often asked by owners contemplating the clutch basket modification to supply or point them off to where they can buy the special clutch hub holding tool (CT021). And the rest of the recommended items for a top class remove and refit of the basket.

Here we are http://www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product.php?productid=18002&cat=0&page=1

Please note I'm not connected in any way with this business. I just asked if they could put a kit together at an all in one price to make it worth every ones while. I think its great. Parts are after market so to speak but I've used them all many times without a problem.

I'll pop back here to explain the importance of the four parts later.....

[sharealike]

Picture of the clutch basket modification changing kit. Four parts are new gasket for the clutch cover. New nut so you have a complete soft rim to knock a part into one spline to lock it. A replacement O section seal for the water pump cover. And most important of all the Clutch Hub Holding Tool.

The Gasket - Important any gasket used has these rings of extra soft sealing material in tact. These seal the two water passages that pass from front and rear cylinder water jackets to the water pump. If they leak you will slowly move cooling water to your oil. Not good for engine longevity.

The Nut - Bikes that have been through a few stock clutch baskets before fitting the modifed upgrade could have a well used nut. Suzuki recommend new every time. At least with this you will be confident of a new soft rim to tap into the splines to lock it after tightening.

'O' section water seal - This seal fits inside a groove in the water pump cover. The cover has to be removed or at least loosened before removing the main clutch cover. The front of the cover traps road salt and fine particles of grit as its in direct line with what's thrown up by the front wheel. Over the years this swells as it corrodes a little of the aluminium of the sealing faces and pushes the seal out of shape. Cleaning out the groove while the cover is off and using a new seal before re filling the cooling sysytem is the best way to be certain of a water tight engine long term.

And last but not least the Clutch Hub Holding Tool. Called a CT 021 by EBC. This locks the hub of the clutch correctly as Suzuki recommends while both undoing and then re torquing the main nut on the gearbox shaft. This is the only way to hold it firm and stable while the correct torque is used to ensure the nut does not come loose over time after fitting the modified clutch basket.

Its the splines in the middle that lock onto the hub. Note it also has tangs round the outside which engage with the clutch basket. They are useful to steady the tool and keep it square while working. The tool can also be used to test the clutch basket damper. Use it to turn the basket in both back and forth directions before its removed from its mesh with the primary drive gear. The free movement and noise as the damper is flexed in each direction is what the clutch basket modification is designed to address.

[sharealike]

Just as the first Suzuki VStrom 1000's will be passing their fifteenth birthdays, and the Suzuki SV1000 their fourteenths, I'm reminded just how old some of the bikes are. They are lasting very well and if the level of clutch basket modifications I'm performing is any indication, both bikes using this engine are getting more use than ever.

I'm often asked about the clutch holding tool and new gasket for the clutch cover. Both essential to making a good job, I can send these out with modified basket but the tool is needed to remove the basket besides refitting it once it returns from modification/upgrade/rebuild. Better perhaps that the tool and all additional parts which might be required can be ordered up front. I made contact with a local Suzuki aftermarket parts supplier CJ Accessories who are happy to stock and send out the items. Now as the bikes get older and many are on their second (even third) stock clutch basket, I'm expecting the main nut for the clutch hub and the seal for the water pump cover could be needed more often when changing out the clutch basket. Link below to the full four part kit..

http://www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product.php?productid=18002&cat=0&page=1

Search the site as due to demand they now offer part of the kit such as without the clutch hub holding tool. Another sign perhaps that owners have a tool from a previous change of clutch basket. http://www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product.php?productid=18028&cat=0&page=1

And for the nearly new bikes. Just the above tool required and perhaps stay with a genuine Suzuki gasket if changing a basket while a bike is still under warranty. I've not checked the after market gaskets in these kits against genuine to confirm if its good for the 2014 and on engines. More to come later about clutch noise, vibration and crank idle hammer in the later 2014 onward ABS Vstrom 1000 engines.

[sharealike]

Suzuki VStrom 2016 build clutch basket/engine vibration at only 800 miles (1200km).
Pictures below of a June 2016 made standard Suzuki clutch basket sent here for re engineering. This basket is taken from a 2014 build year bike so not its original.
Owner in a hilly part of the USA writes there is vibration while riding from 2,700 to 3,500 rpm and sometimes above this in most gears.

First pic confirms made (casting was cast) in 2016. Letter F is June.
Second pic - turned over shows later more robust design DL1000 basket cover plate.
Third with cover removed to show gear - springs taken out. Bearing face on gear shown top of pic.
Fourth with gear lifted out to inspect the usual problem bearing inside.
Fifth shows black smears running away from point of wear.
Last two pics showing more detail of the wear.

In the direction of wear I could feel at least 0.5mm play in this bearing. This let the casting knock about on the hub of the gear. Bikes with the chudder have this rattling at the specific engine rpm. The black smears are a not at all nice abrasive compound of worn aluminium and oil. Fact the owner caught this basket so young lets us pinpoint where the wear starts. Higher mileage baskets have smears all round or some oils appear to have washed all or most traces away.

[sharealike]

Just a reminder to pack baskets well before shipping them over.

I always imagine the shipping company is going to throw them the length of a van - but the bloke doing the catching is going to miss it.

Over the years have found the most easily available packing is a strong box made of cardboard. Then corrugated cardboard wrapped round the outside of the basket to fill the gaps. Then a middle column of corrugated cardboard to space the delicate fingers clear of the box lid.

Much like this -

The weight when packed is often no more than 3kg. The largest box you might need is 30cm by 30cm by 20cm tall.
(weight of the clutch basket is only 2.2kg - actual size is 20cm diameter by 10cm tall)