Winter Shutdown Idea

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Oh yes, my second type is this=

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Sorry to do this to everyone as I know you all have better things to do than go over and over the same things, but, I have read the various threads containing info on the correct sprocket sizes for the vee. As stated in my profile I own a brilliant 2002 DL1000 and am currently stripping, cleaning and renewing it to its former glory, or as close as. But I've come to order my sprockets of either fleabay or wemoto and come across a differing in what is sold. The size that came off the bike is 17/41, this is what I can get from fleabay but my regular place for parts =wemoto is stating standard is 17/42 in their chain and sprocket kit. I have two questions.
Maybe more.

What is the correct standard setup from new
If I don't go for 17/41 and get the 17/42 what is the difference . I.e. What does it do , do I need to adjust the chain I.e. Lose links or anything Yada yada yada.

Price isn't really an issue as it's all the same or close enough so it doesn't matter, not bothered about saving fuel or anything like that, just don't want it to damage anything as I'm trying to bring her back from obvious years of neglect as it is.

Thanks in advance and sorry again for wanting answers to already answered questions, but I ain't getting the answers from what I have read.

 

[Juvecu]

Stock for a Vee is 17/42, I've updated the info in the compendium to reflect this. 17/42 will not need any chain changes and you won't notice any real difference other than a few RPM drop at higher gears, almost negligible. The real trouble with 17/42 is that the same teeth will hit the same chain links every 3 revolutions of the rear sprocket. Compare that to the same teeth hitting the same link every 41 revolutions on a 41 teeth sprocket. The 42 sprocket will wear itself and the chain faster. Go with a 17/41 setup, buy the chain and sprockets separately or buy a kit somewhere else than Wemoto. Consider getting the best quality chain you can afford, you can't go wrong with a DID.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Thanks for that, appreciate the info, it's already got the 41 on the rear so I'm guessing it must of had at least a rear sprocket change but that front must be original given the state of the thing. I will buy separate as you say. Girl is still stripped and getting deep clean, taking the rockers off today to check clearances so wish me luck as this is a first for me, you may be asked more questions later  

Thanks for all the good advice though, hopefully after doing all this work and gaining some experience of the old girl I can chuck some back for other eh.

Pics to come of the refit

[VStromDL1000Rick]

well first nightmare of the day , which in fairness didn't feel like it would be a good one anyway so probably would have been better to start tomorrow.
trying to remove the bung to turn the engine for lining up timing marks and it sheared the allen fitting, tried to use a ground down larger one so it fit snug, tried cutting slots into the allen so that it would act like a screw remover but to no avail, so I had to drill four holes into it and cut into a socket to the same pattern to be able to remove it. f%^k me it was tight, I mean I'm not scrawny and this took all my strength to come free, as soon as it cracked off it ran down its thread like nothing was up, well pissed off, I even gently warmed the case slightly but I guess it was always going to f%^k up.

picture below is of the change I had to make to get it out.

day just isn't Going to go well is it.#


anyone know the best place to get one of these and the seal as well please, rough cost would help too.

NIGHTMARE MAN

cheers

[Juvecu]

The plug is used on a lot of Suzuki's so should be easy to get a replacement either second hand/new/aftermarket. I'd suggest getting an aftermarket one that is made out of better aluminium so that it doesn't happen again or getting an aftermarket ones that  just has a square hole that has a normal 3/8 socket or 1/2 socket drive.

The o-ring has a 32.7mm ID and the thickness is 3.1mm (so OD is 35.8mm, obviously.) You should be able to get it from just about anywhere and if you can't get the exact size, just use whatever is closest. If you buy a replacement plug it might have one already so buy the plug first and check before bother with searching for the o-ring. Only nip it up when you put it back in, the rubber o-ring needs to compress a little, but shouldn't be distorted by over-tightening (think oil filter.) If you're not sure how tight is enough, do it up by hand as best as you can (no tools) and then just turn it an extra 1/4 turn with a tool.

Front sprockets wear much faster than rear ones, it's the reason I recommend people check the front sprocket for wear rather than the rear, the rear will always look better. They wear faster because they are smaller and rotate many times more in their lifetime than the rear sprocket does. That front sprocket is likely as old as the rear. Some people change the front twice for every rear. I tend to change both at the same time along with the chain or at least put a new front on when I change the chain.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Again thanks, got the rear rocker off and checked clearances and shims and the exhaust is out so need a couple of 3.00mm but the inlets are a little different , ones at 0.11 and is close but the book says no adjustment, it also doesn't state in the book the shim size I have, in the bike is 2.82 but the book only states options for 2.75, 2.80 and 2.85 so should I drop a different one In or should I just say it's OK like the books says. Mmmmmmm

It's definitely a lot easier than I thought though and confidence is definitely better now , the old girl will live again

[Juvecu]

Personally, if it's very close to being tight then I'd just set them to be in the middle of the range. Don't worry about which sizes the book says the shims come in, measure the shims you have (don't just trust the numbers on them) and do your own calculations to see which shims you need to get the gap to somewhere in the middle of the spec. Sometimes bike shops will trade you your unwanted shims for cheaper shims from their stock so if you've done your calcs and you know what you need you can just go to the shop and get some from their stock (again take your callipers with and measure them to be sure.) Once it's all in and bolted back together, rotate the engine a few times and check it again to make sure it's all good before closing the engine up again. If you can't find shims and your valves are on the tight side you can use some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand your shims down to the right thickness in a pinch. It takes a lot of time and effort to do it this way, but I've done it in the past and it works well.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Thanks for that,

The front sets exhaust are OK and the inlets are a little better than the rears inlets, but I think I will leave well alone for a few miles and then check again, she's getting the works so I think she will be better with the new ones soon but will change them in a bit.
It's getting more and more to spend now, been wondering if 3 - 4 bars on the temp was OK in traffic in this cold country so I took out The radiator sensor for the fan and checked it all and it seems it doesn't kick in till over 110 deg, so looks like that's another thing for the parts page of my projects folder.

Still at least I'm finding out all about my baby and what makes her tick for when I need to fix her.
This bike is, even with it's many fixes, the best thing I've ever ridden and I want to make her live forever.

So from Friday onward the rebuild starts and the finishing off. Looking to get her back on the road for the middle of October when my holidays kick in at work and so we will have to forfeit other luxuries this month from my pay such as food and heat to get her done. But she will warm my heart when fixed and feed my soul so I will survive, as will she.....

[MartinW]

Three bars is normal in all weathers for my bike. See This Thread for comments from other riders too.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Yeah I did read that thread and that's what sent me on a wondering session, it's definitely more on four than three which is why I though I would get it off and check it, seems to be switching a little high which would explain the fourth bar, I'm just Going to buy a new one and see if it sorts it, if not then I will leave alone but it gets a bit worrying when your sat there  and all your watching is if it will go to five bars. It's always when you need to be somewhere or are miles from home  

But like I say it's good experience, and the more I fit the newer it is  

She is going to be fab when done, hopefully....

[Jacko]

The o-ring has a 32.7mm ID and the thickness is 3.1mm (so OD is 35.8mm, obviously.)

If ID is 32.7 and thickness is 3.1 then OD is 32.7+6.2=38.9.

The 2.82 shim mentioned is a worn 2.85 item, just get the nearest replacement one to your need baring in mind the actual thickness of the outgoing shim. It's not uncommon, one of my last shim changes threw up a worn one. To be sure just make sure the faces of the shim and micrometer are clean and remeasure.

Don't forget to oil your shims with engine oil as you replace them. And well done, you've just saved yourself £300.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Get the feeling I have probably saved myself a tad more than that now seeing the list of things that I will have done by finish, but will still have cost me, she's worth it though.
I get what your saying with the shims, but the ones that are measuring 2.82 actually have that marked on them . So at least they aren't worn but it has thrown me a little. I don't know if it's me being thick. ( I do know but trying desperately to hide it) but I find it hard to find the right shim that I need, never been good at doing calculations. But I think it can wait for now, although I'm guessing some May say that I may as well get it done while it's apart but just not sure.

Still, all that aside I'm looking forward to ordering it all and fitting it.

Early Xmas prezzies to myself me thinks  

[Jacko]

I've never seen a shim marked anything other that .05 increments. There's a first time for everything.

[Juvecu]

If ID is 32.7 and thickness is 3.1 then OD is 32.7+6.2=38.9

Erm.. yes, that Brain fart

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Yeah it's the first thing I thought after reading the manual and it going up in.05 increments . That's why I questioned it on here. Maybe the previous bloke or girl did some changes but I don't think so ,as with everything else on the bike I don't think it's ever been opened. So guess is as good as mine as to its origin or reason.

Still if it works what's the difference eh. Probably  off a different bike maybe.

[Juvecu]

Your fan thermo switch is fine, the service manual says it will turn on at approx. 105 deg C. 110 is close enough.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

OK, well if the switch is OK, could it be the fan, when hooked up direct to a dc power supply and the voltage slowly turned up, it gets to 8-9volts and tries to turn and then gets faster and faster toward 12 volts but isn't exactly flying round, but as I haven't really looked at the fans on bikes before I'm not sure what the standard is. If I turn it on when set straight to 12v it builds instantly to 8.43 volts and then just hovers at that, my power supply is limited to 3.2amps and it reads all of that, not sure if it should be pulling so much current, seems a little excessive, could the fan be mulch instead of the switch.

any information appreciated as usual.

oh and on a lighter note I may have a tip for others.

when replacing the shims and buckets back onto the valves I found that if you use one of those magnetic pick up tools on the back of the bucket as well as dibbing in oil, it stays in place a lot better and is easier to remove in the first place, saves losing the little blighters. just a thought, worked for me...

[Juvecu]

Used a harddrive magnet myself, works well

The bike's voltage will be higher than 12V when it's running. Higher voltage = lower current. Your fan will run full speed as soon as it's turned on, there's no speed control. The charging voltage for the bike is 14.0 to 15.5V @ 5000 RPM (below that it might be less, above it should be the same.) The fan should turn easily when you spin the blades by hand. If there's no rear resistance other than what you'd expect then it's likely fine. If it really bothers you then you can fit a manual fan switch, put it in parallel with the thermo switch and turn it on when you are sitting in traffic/as needed.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

right well going off what you just said and the fact that the thermo switch may well be OK, looks like I'm just being a tad paranoid. going into too much depth here maybe but want the old girl to feel everything is right and that when I go to see my kids down south that the bike will perform and not go bad. if I can fix something going wrong I will but I guess in the end if it ain't broke....

ordering all my bits tonight so I will get the rest and try it out when its all done back up. its not a big job to get the rad off again and the switch is easy enough to get to.

I thank you for the quick reply and will endeavour to take on board the good knowledge given to me.
getting close to needing this thing back on the road now, withdrawal symptoms are a coming...