Author Topic: Spot lights wiring..... (Read 5174 times)

ZmijGorinich · « **on:** August 21, 2013, 23:43:48 »

Hello folks,

hope someone will be able to help. Am currently in process of installing spot lights on my 2002 Vee. My plan is to tap into parking lights therefore the question... Looked throughout the wiring diagram and unable to find any wiring for parking lights at all.

It has 2 wires coming from bulb holders and I wondered if anyone knows which one is live when in parking/on mode...

Thanks in advance

greywolf · « **Reply #1 on:** August 22, 2013, 00:37:37 »

The brown wire is the parking light wire which will be live with the ignition in the ON or P position. Orange/green will be live in the ON position only. If you don't have heated grips on the heated grip connector behind the radiator, those wires can handle maybe 40W. If you plan on using more, install a relay for the lights.

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #2 on:** August 22, 2013, 00:56:14 »

Thanks for v prompt reply.

I've got already relay within spot light wiring. However you got me now a bit concern as I've got two 55W spot lamps. Do you think it'll be able to handle it even with relay or should I really tap into main beam wire?

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #3 on:** August 22, 2013, 00:59:25 »

Oh BTW, what about swapping original 55W halogen bulbs for 7.5W LED bulbs?
Sorry, not an electrician but I'm trying...

greywolf · « **Reply #4 on:** August 22, 2013, 02:23:44 »

The average automotive relay will handle 110W easily. Your K2 alternator won't though. It only provides about 75-100W above and beyond the needs of the stock bike. Switching to LEDs would be a good idea.

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #5 on:** August 22, 2013, 06:17:40 »

one more question

if I change onto LED bulbs do I need changing anything in the wiring as like adding resistors?

or is it just plug and play

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H3-7-5W-HIGH- ... 4d0a430f0f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-WHITE-H ... 416367f227

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-H3-SMD-25- ... 19e0629059

Greatly appreciate your help

Jacko · « **Reply #6 on:** August 22, 2013, 07:09:42 »

I think resistors are only needed for LED indicators.

ziggy · « **Reply #7 on:** August 22, 2013, 07:11:02 »

Resistors are not required for the use of LED's in spotlights.

Andy M · « **Reply #8 on:** August 22, 2013, 07:17:12 »

Resistors are only needed where a mechanical flasher relay is involved. The flasher uses the power wasted in heating up filament lamps to slow the heating of it's own bi-metallic strip to a rate that meets the flash rate requirements. Wasting this energy at a resistor instead of the lamp makes no difference to the flash rate or the power consumption. Fit LED indicators alone and the flash rate will change to illegal levels.

It you want power saving and LED indicators, change the indicator relay for an electronic one rather than just moving where the heat is made. Given the indicators are an intermittent 40W load, you don't get much shag for your male deer, I'd leave alone.

If it doesn't flash at a fixed rate you can just change the lamp. Spot lights should never have a resistor, you want more light and less heat, not the other way round.

Andy

greywolf · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2013, 17:10:35 »

What they said. LED replacements don't have a focused light so are great for additional light when using brights to light up the night. They are bad for fog lights used with dipped headlights where the beam is held low to not blind oncoming traffic and to prevent reflection from fog and rain from coming back to your eyes. I would use the yellow wire in the headlights to activate the relay so they only come on with bright headlights if going to any of the LEDs in the links.

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2013, 20:02:09 »

Quote from: "greywolf"

What they said. LED replacements don't have a focused light so are great for additional light when using brights to light up the night. They are bad for fog lights used with dipped headlights where the beam is held low to not blind oncoming traffic and to prevent reflection from fog and rain from coming back to your eyes. I would use the yellow wire in the headlights to activate the relay so they only come on with bright headlights if going to any of the LEDs in the links.

Hmm ... a bit confused

You're saying that they (LED bulbs) are good at night as an additional light (as far as I understand WITH dipped lights), BUT at same time you're saying that they are bad when used with dipped lights as would blind the oncoming traffic BUT you would use it by tapping into yellow wire to use with dipped light... :banghead: I've lost you blokes...

Basically my initial plan was to hook the fog/spot lights with halogen 55w bulbs via relay. I now changed the plan as due to combined high wattage of fog lights will drain the battery. I am now planning to instead of halogen bulbs install LED bulbs (links above). Originally I was planning to connect to parking bulb as I had a plan to have them on occasionally when stationary ... for a bit of show off

BUT without main beam. At the same time I want to use with main headlights.
SO! if I use LED bulbs in current fog lights with relay by tapping into parking lights WILL it work??? Will it make any difference, illumination wise?

Sorry for all the questions .....

greywolf · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2013, 21:13:19 »

There is no such thing as a spot/fog light. A spot beam is an adjunct to high beams to get as much light out there as possible. A fog beam is an adjunct to dipped beams and has a tightly controlled pattern to keep the light low. I like to call them CU or see you lights. They allow the rider to see better. In my area it is against the law to have fog lights on with high beams or spot lights on with dipped beams.

I think you are talking about see me lights that make the bike easier to see by other drivers/riders. These put out less light and are really good with LEDs that have a lower output or are part of a housing that controls the beam. Really high output LEDs that have multiple smaller LEDs used as replacements for halogens can only be used as spot lights. The original reflector requires a small light source to focus the halogen light. If the LEDs you linked are low output see me lights, they can be left on all the time because they shouldn't blind oncoming traffic.

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #12 on:** August 22, 2013, 21:28:30 »

OMG!!!! My brain is boiling ....

So, can I connect it to parking light or not ? And what does folk from uk says re spot/fog light legislation?

I think you are right and I've got CU lights as the housing will keep LED bulb. But like I said can I connect to parking light?

greywolf · « **Reply #13 on:** August 22, 2013, 22:21:22 »

You can use the parking light connection as long as the lights you use don't bother oncoming traffic. That would make them see me lights according to my definition.

ZmijGorinich · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2013, 22:28:46 »

Really huge thanks greywolf and to the rest of the gang! Greatly appreciated!

greywolf · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2013, 22:45:12 »

You might have to call them marker lights instead of spot or fog lights to meet legal definitions, or make sure you don't call them anything. UK residents can answer that part. In the USA, head, spot, fog and marker lights have specific legal definitions and requirements.

user650 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2013, 08:03:19 »

Call them day time running lights every car seems to comes with them now so why not bikes

greywolf · « **Reply #17 on:** August 23, 2013, 13:49:04 »

Quote from: "user650"

Call them day time running lights every car seems to comes with them now so why not bikes

DRLs are headlights, often high beams run at reduced power, rather than separate lights.

user650 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 23, 2013, 19:44:19 »

in UK Audi BMW and others fit these lights ( usually led) around headlights under bumpers etc not sure if they have them on other country's models

Copied from AA website

You've probably noticed those bright LED 'eyebrows' on newer cars, but why are so many cars being fitted with them, and what are they for?
As a result of European legislation adopted in 2008 dedicated daytime running lights (DRL) have been required on all new types of passenger cars and small delivery vans since February 2011. Trucks and buses followed from August 2012.
There is no requirement to retro-fit DRLs to existing cars and no Europe-wide requirement for drivers of cars without daytime running lights to drive with headlights on during the day. If you're driving abroad, check our touring tips for local rules.
Daytime running lights are designed to come on automatically when the engine is started - all other lights should remain off.
Daytime running lights must be bright enough that they can be seen clearly in daylight and as a result are too bright to be used at night time when they would cause dazzle. Daytime running lights should therefore go off automatically when headlights or sidelights are switched on.

Daytime running lights don't have to be separate lights - some car manufacturers combine them with the front position lamps (side lights) in which case the daytime running lights will dim when the headlights are turned on.

greywolf · « **Reply #19 on:** August 23, 2013, 20:33:45 »

Yeah. I wasn't thinking of the new vehicles using LEDs.