Author Topic: build quality? (Read 5086 times)

Juvecu · « **Reply #20 on:** August 09, 2013, 22:35:58 »

Glue on the front mudguard bolts?

I figure it's stainless fasteners screwed into an aluminium fork lower without something like grease to stop the galvanic corrosion. I had to drill them out

greywolf · « **Reply #21 on:** August 09, 2013, 23:14:54 »

Anaerobic thread locker is used on a number of fasteners. The newer the bike, the more it seems to be used. The mudguard bolt that screws into a small metal rectangle that is trapped in a plastic box is the worst on the Glee. There is no good way to hold it and heat can't be used to defeat the thread locker because it will melt the plastic mudguard.

Keith Cross · « **Reply #22 on:** August 10, 2013, 09:37:55 »

I really don't like thread locker, but in the day and age of owners who don't check their bikes regularly I don't think manufacturers have any choice.
When I used to own British bikes in the 1970's it was a weekly task to not only check the oil etc, but also to check fasteners for tightness. But in recent times many owners simply don't do this, they just ride their bike between services, some not even adjusting and lubricating the rear chain but leaving this to the dealer too.
I prefer the idea of using lock nuts or spring/star washers to keep things tight. This does of course increase costs of each bike by a few pennies (maybe even as much as a few pounds or dollars, leaving the owners/mechanics with the problem.

Keith C

Juvecu · « **Reply #23 on:** August 10, 2013, 09:53:45 »

Must say, I prefer lock nuts over thread locker too, but not a big fan of spring washers as they have a tendency to gouge out/scratch metal if they turn.) Checking bolts weekly is not something anyone wants to do so I can put up with threadlocker if that spares me having to check things often. The peace of mind knowing everything isn't vibrating apart while I'm riding is already worth the bit of struggle threadlocker might cause. Sometimes I think Suzuki are a bit overzealous with the strength of threadlocker they use, but on the whole it's not a big problem.

As far as quality fasteners go, if you're a manufacturer and you weigh up the extra costs vs the potential problems then you might also get to the conclusion that cheap fasteners are what you're going to use. Particularly if you're a well established manufacturer with a reputation for reasonable reliability, a few complaints about fasteners isn't going to cost you your business. Particularly not if you're selling good bikes for less than the competition as you'll always have people buying despite the fasteners. It's a balancing act and I'm thinking they are balancing quite well, it could be a lot worse.

The paint is another matter altogether, I think they are skimping on that a bit too much, but it probably helps to keep the price down. Then again, if you look at my bike it's lasted well enough. I can live with having to respray the side cases once for the money I paid.

mr_diver · « **Reply #24 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:14:07 »

Considering the millage and weather related abuse your bike has had during your ownership Juv I think your bike was looking good.
I look at mine at 45k and see some stroms that have been on sale for around the £2, 500 mark with under 20k miles and think mine in in far better nick if you discount the scratched side pannel ( £125 if I can be bothered to replace)
I've become a firm believer in spray with acf50 or the like in oct, rinse off regularly with fresh water and reapply the protection over the dirt every month.
Then scrub in winter.

hookie · « **Reply #25 on:** August 13, 2013, 10:37:23 »

This whole question about the finish (or lack of?) seems to have started when motorcycles ceased to be regarded as cheap transport for hard up working people after WW2 and simply became seen as another leisure activity. Post WW2 British bikes and Japanese imports into the 70s were generally very well finished and could be ridden all year round without dissolving in front of your eyes. Since they've become leisure toys there's no need to worry about the effects of riding them in anything but nice sunny weather as far as the manufacturers were concerned. A good example of this is the use of aluminium alloy for brake calipers with steel pistons. OK in the dry, dodgy when wet and add a bit of salt and you have seized pistons in a matter of weeks. Add to all this the global financial crisis which has resulted in manufacturers cutting costs (corners?) wherever possible and the situation seems to have got a lot worse. Car manufacturers know they couldn't get away with it. Bike manufacturers can and do because not enough buyers complain enough about it. For years fuel economy has been a major issue with cars but it's only just starting to get talked about with bikes and it seems only Honda are actively working on it. Unfortunately the responsibility for these issues lies with the motorcycle buying public and the motorcycle publishing media which lacks any real neutrality and simply tips it's forelocks to the manufacturers.

willbo · « **Reply #26 on:** August 13, 2013, 11:26:41 »

I acf mine fully after every big full degrease wash I do (every 4 months or so depending on how she looks. I don't acf everywhere after every wash. I do top up if a place looks bad. So far no rust only a few stains on the exhaust and where the swmotech guard stopped me cleaning. I did have a bit of salt damage by the tank top bolt but sorted that.

geekay · « **Reply #27 on:** August 13, 2013, 12:07:07 »

this ACF stuff - can it be put pretty much anywhere?

A long time ago - the last naked bike I had, a Honda Hornet 600 - I used to use scottoilier FS365 after every wash - it seemed to help. is the ACF stuff better?

g

frez · « **Reply #28 on:** August 13, 2013, 12:12:16 »

Don't put it on the brakes pads or brake discs, otherwise you can put it anywhere you think might corrode.

geekay · « **Reply #29 on:** August 13, 2013, 12:15:19 »

oh no - I'd keep it away fro brakes - but hot areas? exhaust?

what about rubber parts & plastics? - do they need masking? electricals likewise?

iansoady · « **Reply #30 on:** August 13, 2013, 12:18:49 »

It's fine on electricals indeed recommended. Although it does make a bit of a sticky mess.

I've used it successfully on the internal fusebox of my LR Discovery (being a Land Rover it leaks into the box.....)

geekay · « **Reply #31 on:** August 13, 2013, 12:22:32 »

ah OK - cool - it's about £15 a can isn't it? - does it last a while or does a can only do a coat or two?

MartinW · « **Reply #32 on:** August 13, 2013, 13:11:39 »

You will get several coats out of a can. I do spray the engine and exhaust. It smokes and smells a bit when you start it up, but OK after a minute or two.

Juvecu · « **Reply #33 on:** August 13, 2013, 13:13:16 »

I keep it away from brakes, seat, tyres, grips and controls. Everything else gets it. If you buy a spray can, spray it on a cloth and use the cloth to wipe things down. I think buying it in a bottle rather then a can and then decanting into a misting sprayer is the better way to get it in everywhere. There's too much wasting with a spray can compared to a mister. A simple, cheap, small garden pump and spray type thing that you'd use for pesticides works well. Exhaust and engine are fine, it dries off when you next start it. Put it on when cold so it gets time to creep before it gets cooked off. It'll still work after the excess is cooked off.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360674152532

willbo · « **Reply #34 on:** August 13, 2013, 13:34:49 »

I love acf50. It perminately stays wet, creeps to cover surfaces and stays on even after heavy downpours. I bought a 1ltr bottle for £30 off ebay. With free pressure pump applicator. That will keep me for years. Also, its a new formula now safe on all rubber and lasts 3 years on the shelf not 2. This is off official acf website

Jacko · « **Reply #35 on:** August 13, 2013, 13:37:15 »

Yeah, do the bottle/mister thing. Or use a compressor and oil sprayer if you have one.

The cans waste far too much ACF. If can is only option then spray into the misting bottle and apply from that. I bought a litre of the stuff 3 years ago and I'm not even halfway down it, and I apply it to both bikes.

greywolf · « **Reply #36 on:** August 13, 2013, 13:43:39 »

ACF50 is good for rubber, plastics and electrics. Don't put it on tyre treads as it is slippery though. It was developed to protect aircraft, especially electrics, from corrosion. Its name come from the 50th iteration of anti corrosion formulas tested. It's like WD40 was the 40th iteration of water displacing formulas tested.

SimonW · « **Reply #37 on:** August 13, 2013, 18:18:47 »

Quote from: "willbo"

...I bought a 1ltr bottle for £30 off ebay. With free pressure pump applicator. That will keep me for years...

The ACF might, but the applicator probably won't. Mine packed up after a year or two and I scratched my head about what to replace it with. Because of the viscosity of the ACF all of the cheap garden sprayer things don't work. Then I hit on the idea of using an olive oil sprayer, which works a treat. Asda have them for about £4 I think.

Darkest-Star · « **Reply #38 on:** October 14, 2013, 16:27:55 »

Has anybody given FS 365 a go yet for protecting their bike over the winter.
Just bought 2 litres from Scottoiler to give a try.

geekay · « **Reply #39 on:** October 14, 2013, 17:32:53 »

I've used the FS365 stuff (assume that's what you mean) some years back on a Honda Hornet bike - it was a naked roadster type of bike with exposed engine. It had better build quality than the storm, but even so, the FS365 kept it very well protected through the winter riding I did. (Admittedly, this is much less than a lot of strommers will do - I don't commute for example).

FS365 and ACF50 are often compared and the main point seems to be that you need to re-apply FS365 regularly, but it allows you to keep the bike "looking" cleaner - whereas ACF is an apply once and wash off in spring type of product.